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Wasatch Mountain Range in Utah

Published by Erik Shonstrom, Writer

Country: United States

The Experience

Utah is a country that beckons. The Wasatch Range is Utah’s geological spine, stretching from north to south down the centre of the state. Salt Lake City, Provo, Park City, and Ogden all owe their existence to the bounty of the Wasatch Range; whether in the form of water, resources or resort skiing. To the south lie the famous Zion, Escalante, and Canyonlands Parks; often depicted in the work of American photographer and environmentalist Ansel Adams.

The trail up to Dog Lake practically demands to be walked. The little path hugs a small stream that cuts through the dense growth of quaking aspen in the V-shaped valley. Cool mountain air makes the climb seem less strenuous, and only a few minutes up the trail a great view of the Wasatch Range peaks appear. Even in June, snow patches can be seen. It’s almost as though the mountains are drawing you in, inviting you to explore the reaches of the canyons. You can understand why Mormons call this place Zion.

The Wasatch Range defines the state of Utah, and the majority of inhabitants live on the flanks of the mountains more out of necessity than choice. The Wasatch Range provides much of the water that flows into the homes and other buildings of Utah’s 2.7 million residents. The rest of the state is arid desert which proves difficult to inhabit without a supply of water from elsewhere.

The Wasatch Range is a stone's throw from Salt Lake City, which is dominated by the presence of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. As such, the city is relatively sanitized against much of the trash or graffiti that burdens other cities. It also seems to lack the urban grit that is often manifesting in the character and texture of cities. The real reason to visit Salt Lake City is to access the wild mountains and deserts that surround it.

I was trekking through the Wasatch Range simply to get a feel for the place. I had been to Park City and Salt Lake; skied at Alta, and visited Zion and Bryce Canyon Parks to the south. However, I’d never explored the mountains on foot, and by foot is the only way to really get up into the Wasatch Range. The road up through Big Cottonwood Canyon is only the beginning. The real Wasatch starts when you ditch your wheels and head up one of the trails.

Many of the place names around Utah are either Ute in origin or the result of the Dominguez-Escalante expedition of 1776. Dominguez and Escalante were friars bent on blazing a trail to the missions and settlements of California from New Mexico. They headed up through western Colorado and through Utah to avoid the Chirumas (a tribe apocryphally reported to be cannibals at the time). Instead, they headed up through the Wasatch Range, home of the decidedly more welcoming Timpanogots.

It’s easy to see why the Timpanogots called the Wasatch Range their home. Despite the steep and rocky terrain, my hike up to Dog Lake took me through little meadows and grassy fields. One of the things I was looking for was an endemic plant species called the Wasatch "shooting-star" (Dodecatheon dentatum var. utahense) which is only known to grow within Big Cottonwood Canyon. It is said there are only ten populations of the little purple and white flower growing throughout the Canyon. I wasn’t sure if one of them would be seen on the way up to Dog Lake; so I kept my eyes peeled.

The beauty of the high country in the Wasatch Range is so appealing that I found myself slowly meandering rather then ardently trekking up to the Lake. It’s a short hike, only about 2 miles, but I took my time and let the sun shine on my face, taking breaks to sit on rock outcroppings and staring out over jagged peaks punctuated by white, late June snowfields. The Wasatch Range is a particularly high mountain range. Mount Nebo is the highest peak just shy of 12,000 feet. With impressive rocky crags towering above you, and jagged snow-capped ridges jutting into the blue sky, it really feels like high country here.

The Dominguez-Escalante expedition opened the way for trappers and mountain men in the early 19th century, followed by the Mormons who settled much of the area immediately to the west of the Wasatch Range. And yet the area retains a certain untrammeled appeal in certain corners. As I headed through the forest to Dog Lake, I could imagine myself in a world as undeveloped as that inhabited by the Timpanogots, with nothing but the rushing wind, the calls of birds and the steady thump of my feet to occupy my mind.

Dog Lake is about as picturesque a little mountain lake as you could ask for. It’s ringed with timber, and ‘tranquil’ doesn’t even come close to describing the setting. There’s a network of trails that circle the Lake, and as I walked them I realized how the silence and peace of the place naturally summon reverence. As I rested by the Lake, I grew fascinated by the reflection of blue sky and clouds in the water; a mirror image of our world reproduced in liquid shimmer.

I imagine there are other hikes as pretty or even prettier than the one up to Dog Lake, but that’s the great thing about the Wasatch Range—there’s always another adventure waiting in the next canyon.

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When to Go to Wasatch Range

Utah has it all; from glorious vermilion canyons to the high country of the Wasatch Range. Development is booming in the foothills and valleys of the Wasatch Range, but the savvy traveller can still get a cheap flight to Salt Lake City, and once you're up in the Wasatch, camping is easy. Snow sticks around well into May or June, so wait until high summer before planning your trek.

Odds n' Ends

If you're going to the Wasatch Range, swing by the Mormon Temple in Salt Lake City. I'm not Mormon, but I do have an abiding interest in my family tree, and at the headquarters of the Church of Latter Day Saints in downtown Salt Lake City, the Family Library has (reputedly) one of the largest ancestry databases on earth. It's free, and you can look up your lineage either on the computers or in the huge Library. It's a great diversion before, or after, you trek about in the Wasatch Range.

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