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Welcome Good Fortune at the Vegetarian Festival

Published by Daniel Cummings, Writer

Country: Thailand

The Experience

You'd have to be a pretty avid meat-eater to associate vegetarianism with acts of self-mutilation. Either that or you'd have to be at the Vegetarian Festival in Phuket, known as Kin Jay to the locals. During the first nine days of the ninth lunar month, the local Chinese community congregate to eat vegetarian dishes and preform astonishing displays of ritual purification to their gods. Entranced in worship, devotees of the Vegetarian Festival known as Ma Song, will invite the gods into their bodies. By channeling supernatural powers and performing acts of self torture, the participants try to shift evil from individuals to themselves, and usher in good fortune for the community. The Ma Song show off their powers by climbing ladders with bladed rungs, puncturing their cheeks and tongues with skewers and knives, and walking on burning coals. These more extreme participants of the Vegetarian Festival perform such acts when they have been chosen by God for good moral character, or if they have had a signal of misfortune in their future and wish to extend their life. Witnessing such an event can sometimes be hard to handle as the Ma Song thrust spikes, spears, axes and other unlikely objects through their cheeks to scare away demons. They claim to feel no pain due to the trance they are in and rarely bleed, but for those with a weak stomach the Vegetarian Festival might not be for you. Other members of the community participate in the Vegetarian Festival by chanting at temples, abstaining from meat, sex, alcohol, and tobacco, and bringing their household idols out for blessings. According to legend, in ancient times a Chinese opera troupe fell ill while traveling in Thailand, likely from malaria. By fasting from meat and performing various rituals, they were healed, and the Vegetarian Festival has been a highlight of the local Chinese community's calendar ever since. Throughout the festival there is constant celebration to be taken in with several displays of fireworks, music, rituals and eating! It is quite a sight to see and hear for that matter, as it is believed the louder the celebration the better, as the noise drives away evils spirits.

When to Go to Vegetarian Festival Phuket

The Vegetarian Festival falls on the first nine days of the ninth lunar month, which usually falls in September or October. While the Vegetarian Festival is observed in many places, the biggest celebration happens in Phuket, where 35% of the population are ethnic Chinese. If you want to fly from Bangkok there are many small carriers operating no frills flights at rates that are surprisingly cheap. Otherwise, the many travel agencies in every backpacker area will arrange the combination of buses and boats to get you there.

Odds n' Ends

The following are the rules that adherents observe during the Vegetarian Festival:

1. Cleanliness of bodies during the festival
2. Clean kitchen utensils and use them separately from those who do not join the festival
3. Wear white during the festival
4. Behave physically and mentally
5. No meat eating
6. No sex
7. No alcoholic drinks
8. People at mourning period should not attend the festival
9. Pregnant women should not watch any ritual
10. Women who are menstruating should not attend the ritual

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