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Feel the Rich Spirituality of Taos Pueblo, New Mexico

Published by Megan Eaves, Writer

Country: United States

The Experience

The first thing you notice upon entering Taos Pueblo—the northernmost of 19 Pueblo Indian tribes in New Mexico—is a peaceful silence. Sitting along a strip of fertile land at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, just north of the town of Taos, New Mexico the pueblo (Spanish for “village”) exists in almost the same way as it always has—with no piped running water or electricity. Residents (of which there are about 150 full-timers) live in an interconnected maze of adobe buildings, in rooms with adjoining walls. Around 1,900 other Taos Indians live elsewhere on the surrounding pueblo lands.

Divided in two by the Red Willow Creek, the largest structure in the pueblo—a multi-story adobe building—sits on the northern side of Taos Pueblo. It was likely constructed sometime between 1000 and 1450 AD, and is considered one of the oldest inhabited buildings in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain rises into a stunning peak behind the village, and Taos Pueblo history indicates this area is sacred to the native people who consider themselves to have come from the beloved Blue Lake (a site that was taken by the US Government in 1840 and turned into National Forest). In 1970, the Blue Lake was finally returned to Taos Pueblo, which was an event the locals consider to be the most important in their history. In 1992, UNESCO named Taos Pueblo a World Heritage Site.

It is the spirituality of Taos Pueblo that hangs on the air and envelopes you as soon as you walk onto Pueblo land. On my most recent visit, my family and I arrived in just enough time to catch the guided tour, which commences in the San Geronimo Church. Inside the Taos Pueblo church, a beautiful and soft-spoken woman introduced us to the religious traditions of the people, which are a mixture of Catholicism and Native American beliefs, many of which centre around the natural world.

After a brief introduction to Taos Pueblo religion, and a welcome spoken in Northern Tiwa (the native language of Taos Pueblo), our guide walked us around the grounds of the pueblo and instructed us not to photograph the residents or walk into any buildings that weren't marked as curio shops. She lead us to the ruins of the first site of the San Geronimo Chapel, first constructed in 1610, where it once sat before being destroyed by the US Army during (what she termed) the Spanish Revolt of 1680. The members of our tour group were silenced as she recounted the slaying of women and children by US soldiers during this event; more commonly referred to as the Pueblo Revolt. Even those of us in the group with a broader knowledge of Native American history felt the weight of how the Toas Pueblo history we were taught growing up, often didn't reflect the atrocities committed against this peaceful, nature-loving people.

After the Toas Pueblo tour ended, we were free to roam about the pueblo and encouraged to patronize the local shops, which the families run out of their home rooms. There is great Native American art produced here, and is especially known for its pueblo pottery. For some pueblo members, this is their only source of income. Each of the shopkeepers was not only gracious, but generally welcoming and more than willing to share something about themselves, their culture, art, or even just a friendly conversation. All things considered, the day was a true cultural learning experience for everyone in developing a greater understanding of true American history.

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When to Go to Taos Pueblo

Taos Pueblo, New Mexico is beautiful almost the entire year. The mountain scenery and idyllic natural surroundings look equally magnificent whether under a blanket of snow or a summer sunbeam. If you can, plan your visit around one of the pueblo's many dance days, where professional native dancers gather to participate in spiritual dancing, drumming and music, as well as spiritual rituals. There are many dance days throughout the year, but the most famous of them is the Taos Pueblo Pow Wow, which happens over one weekend every July. Local and national tribes are invited to compete aat the Taos Pueblo Pow Wow in dances and musical events, and winners are selected from among them.

Visitors are invited to the dance days but are asked to be respectful of the local traditions and spiritual rites by obtaining a permit for photographs. Never take pictures of any person outside the competition arena without asking permission first.

Odds n' Ends

Taos Pueblo hours are open between 8 a.m. to 4:30 a.m. everyday for visitors. The Pueblo government reserves the right to close on some dance days and other spiritual events. Admission fees are US$10 per person, with discounts for students, children and groups. Guided Taos Pueblo tours are available for free and commence every half hour or so from San Geronimo Chapel.

There are a few rules when visiting Taos Pueblo, which are designed to protect and preserve the sacred beliefs and sites there. All cameras (both still and video) must be declared, and there are fees for each camera. Even if you do pay to bring a camera in, photos are not to be used for commercial purposes, only for personal use. If you wish to take commercial photos you must check with the entrance and obtain a permit from the government of Taos Pueblo. Additionally, there is strictly no photography inside the San Geronimo Chapel.

On the Taos Pueblo cultural front, it is considered extremely rude to take photos of the people. As with many Native American cultures, they believe that taking a photo of a living being captures their soul. Therefore, you must always politely ask if you wish to take a photo of someone in the pueblo (and don’t be offended when many refuse).

There are several rooms inside the pueblo that are still inhabited by regular residents, so only enter shops or rooms clearly marked as open for business. Many residents keep personal rooms in the back of their curio shops, and you should never enter those rooms but stay in the obvious commercial areas of the pueblo.

Finally, while it may look tempting, you should not touch the water or fish in the creek that runs through the pueblo grounds. This is the only source of drinking water for the pueblo, so they expect that all visitors show a great deal of respect toward their natural, sacred surroundings.

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