Jammed up against suit-clad salarymen on all sides, I barely had room to breathe. A signal went off somewhere in front of me and we shuffled forward, pushing and shoving – politely, of course, this is Japan after all – towards our goal. Except this is not a metro station at peak hour. This is Nakamise-dori, the aisle of shops stretching up to Tokyo’s biggest Shinto shrine, Sensoji, and in a few hours it’ll be Japan’s New Year. It was relatively quiet in the afternoon. The usual hubbub of tourists flowed in and out of Sensoji, the monumental Shinto shrine, built almost one and a half millennia ago it is Japan's oldest temple. Nakamise-dori echoed with the chatter of food-sellers and souvenir-peddlers, and from time ...
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