/tags/orcas-island-whale-watching.rss en-us The San Juan Islands are a geological anomaly comprised of chunks of micro-continents, terranes that floated around the eastern Pacific 200 million years ago. As the Mid-Atlantic ridge enlarged, it pushed what is now the continent of North America westwards, where eventually there was a collision between these small terranes and the large Atlantic oceanic plate. The collision created the mighty Cascade Range, where volcanoes still smolder. As a result the San Juan Islands, which dot Puget Sound, are comprised of a weird and chaotic mix of limestone, mudstone chert, and scraps of oceanic crust. This geologic underpinning defines the characteristics of the islands; quirky, different, unique, and completely unlike the mainland. If the few inhabitants of the islands I got to know are at all representational of the overall demographics, the same could be said for the island’s populace. Orcas Island, a prided treasure of the 172-island chain in San Juan County, is famous for its rugged mountains and lush colourful shoreline. Fringed by the waters of the North Pacific, Orcas Island is a friendly playground for pods of killer whales or orcas, who wend their way here after feeding on fat salmon off the Haro Straight. Sea kayakers delight in this fortuitous pleasure, venturing out to glide among them. Getting to Orcas Island is truly half the fun. Out of Anacortes, Washington, riding the ferry out to Orcas Island is a revelation in and of itself. To escape from cars and planes, and be slowed down to a boat’s chugging rhythm; to have nothing to do but stand at the bow and stare at the water; it is a welcome diversion, offering a refreshing leisurely pace. A curious stop along the way is Lopez Island, which is run by Franciscan Nuns, who come down to dock the ferry dressed in their traditional brown habits. The water of Puget Sound is cold, even in summer, but the area is surprisingly bright and sunny. The Cascade Range to the east, and Olympic Range to the west catch most of the weather, so the Sound itself remains bright and pleasant more often than not. Here the killer whales breach and bound mere feet away from lucky kayakers. Orcas commonly found in the area have become famous. Some even have names, like Ruffles, the orca whose oversized dorsal fin has a wavy look that provided the name. Paddling out early in the morning, the cold water looked dark and rather forbidding as it slid past the kayak. My double bladed paddle made little noise as I churned out for open water. In the distance wriggling lumps on some exposed rocks could be seen, and as I paddled closer, I could see seals sunning themselves. Distances on maps are very different from distances that you have to muscle through. Despite having hoped to cover a lot of open water, the currents and wind paid no heed to my plans. It quickly became evident that my hunt for orcas would need to be contained to the area along the shoreline. As the morning sun matured into early afternoon sun, I had yet to encounter any whales. Despite this, the tranquil surroundings were a welcome solace. As bald eagles soared above the trees in the distance, I was a humble observer of wild encounters of another kind, including a deer swimming from one island to another. Along my way back, after paddling for most of the morning, I finally spotted killer whales. Frankly, I’d expected a sort-of Free Willy-esque type moment; an orca breaching playfully over the bow of my kayak as crystal clear droplets of water arced over my head, glinting with rainbows in the sun. Unfortunately this was not the case. Squinting my eyes, in the distance, I could see the faintest shimmer of a spout every now and then, and glossy dorsal fins cutting the water. I may not have gotten up close and personal with the cetaceans, but as the Buddhists say: path is goal; goal is path. Just being on the water in the San Juan’s is an experience to remember. It is an escapist’s fantasy; isolated, green, cool, and remote. Sea kayaking around Orcas Island is adventure not to be missed. Thu, 25 Jun 2009 16:09:08 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kayak-orcas-island http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kayak-orcas-island