As the door slammed shut, a wave of claustrophobia enveloped the thirty-two people crammed into a dingy cell at the Elmina Castle on the Ghanaian Gold Coast. The cells here are no bigger than an average closet, and the only light which can be seen from the inside is a small square of light at the door. Everything inside the cell was black and quiet except for the breathing of those people around me. A few moments later, the door swung open and my lungs breathed in fresh air with relief. The staggering moment came when our tour guide informed us that as many as one hundred people used to end up in this cell before going on to their final destinations. It sounds like ...
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