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Practice Tantra at Kathmandu’s Swayambhunath Stupa

Published by Devender Kundaliya, Writer

Country: Nepal

The Experience

The history of Kathmandu’s Swayambhunath Stupa is believed to be as old as the Kathmandu Valley. Perched on the top of a hill, Swayambhunath is a site that should never be missed on a Kathmandu tour. This ancient stupa is one of the oldest religious structures in the whole country. In spite of Swayambhunath being a Buddhist place, it is considered a holy and revered place by the Hindu community of Nepal.

Swayambhunath Stupa lies about 2 km west of Thamel in Kathmandu, and is one of the best places in Nepal to get a glimpse of the culture and traditions of the region. After your first visit, chances are, a single visit will not be enough to get acquainted with each and every aspect of the Kathmandu Valley. Swayambhunath is also popularly known as the Monkey Temple, and offers a magnificent view of the entire Kathmandu valley. You’ll find lots of monkeys within the temple area that are said to be holy creatures by the local people.

There are a number of mythological stories in Buddhist scriptures related to Swayambhunath. One of the stories says that Kathmandu Valley was actually a lake in ancient times, and was filled with snakes. One day a lotus flower emerged on the lake by itself. Since this flower was self-created, it was called Swayambhu (meaning self-emerging). The story further states that bodhisattva Manjushri, who wanted humans to worship Swayambhu, cut a gorge at some distance from the lake. As the lake drained into the gorge, the lotus took a seat on the top of a hill. Manjushri then made a shrine at this place to worship Swayambhu. The whole area was later inhabited with human population.

Modern historians believe that the first temple at this site came into existence with efforts of King Vasudeva during the 5th century. Another story suggests that Emperor Ashoka built a temple on the hill during his visit in the 3rd century BC. Some people believe that Buddha himself visited Swayambhunath in the Kathmandu Valley during his lifetime. The hill on which the stupa stands today was used for animist rites about two thousand years ago, and Buddhists engaged in tantric activities consider it a highly important divine power-gaining centre in the entire Kathmandu valley.

You can get to Swayambhunath Stupa from the eastern foot of the hill. A stairway, used by visitors to reach the stupa, was made by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. On the way to the Swayambhunath Stupa, you will encounter many Buddha statues, dating from 17th century. The stupa is a simple structure but represents the complex Buddhist cosmology, and the central dome signifies the womb from where the whole world emerges. Colourful torans are present on four sides, featuring thirteen tiers above and behind them. At different points are statues of the meditating Buddha. Statues of female counterparts sit at other key points, and it’s a nice idea to visit the place early in the morning or during the night to watch monks doing various religious activities near the stupa site.

When to Go to Swayambhunath Stupa

The months of October and November make the best period to visit Swayambhunath Stupa. During these months, the weather remains at its best in Kathmandu region. Mornings and evenings are cool while the days are pleasantly warm. Another good time to visit Kathmandu is during Buddha Jayanti (April or May) festival. At this time, religious activities and enthusiasm are at their peak in this region. However, the only problem you might face during these months is the high daytime temperatures in this region.

Odds n' Ends

The walk from Thamel to Swayambhunath takes no more than 30–40 minutes. You can also take a taxi or rickshaw, or hire a bike to reach the site. There are many shrines around the main stupa, including Pratapur and Anantapur shikras, Vasundhara Temple, Deva Dharma Mahavira monastery, and Shri Karma Raj Mahavira monastery. Some other tourist attractions near Swayambhunath Stupa include the Manjushri Shrine, Natural History Museum, Bijeshwari Bahal and National Museum.

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