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Watch Baroque Horses Dance to Music at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna
Published by Megan Eaves, Writer
Country: Austria 
The Experience
The Spanish Riding School in Vienna is a traditional riding school and training centre for the equestrian art of dressage. This is an elegant sport where horses perform graceful ballet-like dance movements at the (barely visible) commands of their riders. Dressage is a popular sport around the world, and is even a competitive Olympic event. But it is at the Spanish Riding School that the charming white Lipizzan stallions and their riders have been trained in classical dressage since the 1500s.
The Spanish Riding School is the oldest of its kind, and is located inside the Hofburg: Vienna's historic and grandiose imperial palace. The architecture of the training arena, known as the Winter Riding School, is well worth a look. Even if you aren't a horse lover, the enchanting combination of the horses' footsteps as they prance elegantly in time to Bach, Vivaldi, and Handel, is so mesmerizing that you can't help but watch in awe and delight.
Morning exercises, in contrast to the public performances which are given every weekend during the spring, are the time to see the horses and riders in their most natural state. After a short wait in the lobby, we were allowed into the main court to choose from open seating in the upper balcony overlooking the arena. Crystal chandeliers hung above the white pillars and famous walls of the Spanish Riding School, giving the entire building a beautifully elegant and historic air. This was unlike any equestrian facility I'd ever seen before.
As the music began to play, the Lipizzan horses entered the arena with their riders atop and dressed in traditional Spanish Riding School garb: brown tailcoats, tall black boots and upturned bicorne hats. The first horses to enter were the older and more well-trained stallions, which were put through their paces showing visitors the highest level of their skills. These included the airs above ground; the levade (where the horse perches on his haunches with rider aboard); the courbette (where the horse rears and jumps into the air); and the stunning capriole (where the horse appears to fly through the air with all four hooves off the ground).
When the Lipizzan stallions became tired out, the riders exchanged mounts to younger, greener horses. As the cute young stallions paraded around the Winter Riding School arena, some still dappled grey in their youth, they each had a slight mischievous glint in their eyes; but they all seemed eager to work and learn from their trainers.
Following the two-hour exercise, everyone left the arena enthralled by the spectacular elegance of the amazing animals and the delicate working relationship and firm bonds between the riders and horses.
The Spanish Riding School is the oldest of its kind, and is located inside the Hofburg: Vienna's historic and grandiose imperial palace. The architecture of the training arena, known as the Winter Riding School, is well worth a look. Even if you aren't a horse lover, the enchanting combination of the horses' footsteps as they prance elegantly in time to Bach, Vivaldi, and Handel, is so mesmerizing that you can't help but watch in awe and delight.
Morning exercises, in contrast to the public performances which are given every weekend during the spring, are the time to see the horses and riders in their most natural state. After a short wait in the lobby, we were allowed into the main court to choose from open seating in the upper balcony overlooking the arena. Crystal chandeliers hung above the white pillars and famous walls of the Spanish Riding School, giving the entire building a beautifully elegant and historic air. This was unlike any equestrian facility I'd ever seen before.
As the music began to play, the Lipizzan horses entered the arena with their riders atop and dressed in traditional Spanish Riding School garb: brown tailcoats, tall black boots and upturned bicorne hats. The first horses to enter were the older and more well-trained stallions, which were put through their paces showing visitors the highest level of their skills. These included the airs above ground; the levade (where the horse perches on his haunches with rider aboard); the courbette (where the horse rears and jumps into the air); and the stunning capriole (where the horse appears to fly through the air with all four hooves off the ground).
When the Lipizzan stallions became tired out, the riders exchanged mounts to younger, greener horses. As the cute young stallions paraded around the Winter Riding School arena, some still dappled grey in their youth, they each had a slight mischievous glint in their eyes; but they all seemed eager to work and learn from their trainers.
Following the two-hour exercise, everyone left the arena enthralled by the spectacular elegance of the amazing animals and the delicate working relationship and firm bonds between the riders and horses.
When to Go to Spanish Riding School
The best time to visit the Spanish Riding School is during the spring. This is when you have the best chance to catch a full performance. The horses and riders often go on international tours during the winter months, and in July and August (the breeding season), many of the horses are moved to other facilities outside the city for stud or foaling.
True horse lovers should take the time to attend both the professional performance gala as well as the morning exercises, when you can witness actual training sessions and see the horses and riders in their most natural form. I was especially encouraged to see how dressage teams of such high calibre can also sometimes struggle through their training sessions and have "off" moments.
Also, be sure to get there early and sign-up for a tour of the stables, which I missed. It is best to buy your tickets for both performances and tours of the stables at least a day in advance; as there is very limited seating and tickets sell out very quickly.
True horse lovers should take the time to attend both the professional performance gala as well as the morning exercises, when you can witness actual training sessions and see the horses and riders in their most natural form. I was especially encouraged to see how dressage teams of such high calibre can also sometimes struggle through their training sessions and have "off" moments.
Also, be sure to get there early and sign-up for a tour of the stables, which I missed. It is best to buy your tickets for both performances and tours of the stables at least a day in advance; as there is very limited seating and tickets sell out very quickly.
Odds n' Ends
Gala performances at the Spanish Riding School typically only occur on weekends, with occasional Friday performances as well. The morning exercises are open almost every weekday of the year, except during July.
The Spanish Riding School is located inside the Hofburg in the centre of Vienna, between Michaelerplatz and Josefsplatz. Tickets can be purchased from the ticket window at Michaelerkuppel.
If you can't make it to Vienna, you can also catch the famous Lipizzan stallions on one of their world tour performances.
The Spanish Riding School is located inside the Hofburg in the centre of Vienna, between Michaelerplatz and Josefsplatz. Tickets can be purchased from the ticket window at Michaelerkuppel.
If you can't make it to Vienna, you can also catch the famous Lipizzan stallions on one of their world tour performances.
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