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Ward Off Evil at the Setsubun Festival in Kyoto

Published on January 25, 2012 by Vanessa Boiser

Country: Japan

The Experience

Make sure bad luck isn't lingering in your future by celebrating the Japanese Setsubun Festival. Held on the first day of the spring season, it was once thought to be a New Year's Eve of sorts which no one wanted to start off on the wrong foot. Also called the "Mame maki", locals began to throw beans to drive away evil spirits or "Oni" thought to abound during a change in season. Despite being one of the lesser-known Japanese Festivals, people still celebrate it at shrines and at home as part of centuries of tradition.

Every year during the Setsubun Festival, the head of the family "toshiotoko" dresses up like an evil spirit and positions himself on the front door of a house. Thereafter, the other members of the family cast fried soybeans at him and shout, "Evil spirits out! Happiness in!” in Japanese. Then members of the family are expected to pick up and eat the number of fried soybeans corresponding to their ages for good luck. Less common traditions of the Setsubun Festival also include people hanging sardine heads and holly on their doorposts to keep evil spirits away.

The Setsubun Festival is celebrated in the whole of Japan especially in Buddhist and Shinto temples and shrines. However, one of the best places to visit the Setsubun Festival on February 3rd is the Yoshida Shrine in Kyoto where a giant bonfire is held on the night of the festival.

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Map

Puzzle

When to Go

The Spring Setsubun Festival is held on February 3rd or 4th every year, marking the start of the season. The weather during this time is mild so it is comfortable to visit during this time of the year. There are also a good number of available hotels in Kyoto, unfortunately the prices during this season are a bit higher than usual because of the celebration.



Odds n' Ends

The Setsubun Festival is held in the Yoshida Shrine, near Kyoto University on a street that passes through the school. To get there, ride the Kyoto city buses nos. 17 and 102 to the university and walk to the Setsubun Festival. You may also opt to ride the Keihan train to Demachiyanagi station, which is easier to do, and walk the rest of the way to the Setsubun Festival. Admission is free.

In the evening at 9pm onwards, the crowd will start to thin out and assemble together near a bonfire that will burn until the wee hours of the morning. You may bring things and clothes that you wouldn't use anymore as a symbol of "cleansing" and for good luck the following year.

Wear a light cardigan at night since it might get cooler than expected and shoes that are easy to wear and remove because you will be doing a lot of walking and shoes are not allowed to be worn inside shrines. Also, while you are at the Setsubun Festival, try out the famous bean maki and try to eat and finish it in silence for a year of good luck. Beware to stay away from fights that might break out due to drunken Setsubun Festival guests just before the celebration closes. In addition, bring a bottle to refill for drinking water, as bottled water is a bit expensive in Japan.

Language Guides

Japanese is one of the languages spoken in Japan. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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