Solitude and Stillness at Robben Island Museum in Cape Town
Not yet published by Kirsten Gallagher, Writer
Country: South Africa ![]()
The Experience
Robben Island Museum is only a short, choppy ferry ride from Cape Town's waterfront but it transports the visitor through time. Robben Island has been used for centuries as a floating prison or site of banishment for the unwanted and unruly, from lepers to prominent political prisoners like former President Nelson Mandela. It is a popular attraction for tourists seeking to deepen their understanding of South Africa's turbulent history.
The atmosphere on Robben Island is desolate despite the whir of tour buses and the constant stream of visitors. Buses are the standard means of transportation around the island and will take visitors to all the main attractions. One of them is Garrison Church, constructed in 1841, and used during the period of time when Robben Island served as a hospital for lepers, the mentally insane and chronically sick. The ghost of an English nun who died herself attempting to save a drowning leper is said to haunt the grounds. The site at which she met her death is called Lady's Rock.
Another attraction is the limestone quarry where prisoners on Robben Island were forced to do hard labour. They toiled in the blinding sun - literally. Prolonged exposure to the bright glare coming off the stone caused diminished eyesight or actual blindness in many prisoners.
The Maximum Security Prison is what most visitors come to see on Robben Island. Tours are led by ex-political prisoners which lends a distinct authenticity to the experience. It is moving to hear these men speak about the injustices of their own imprisonment as well as provide insight into the conditions of day-to-day living. It is not suprising to hear that under Apartheid rule there was a two-tiered hierarchy of blacks and coloureds, with blacks occupying the bottom tier. Black prisoners were entitled to less - when it came to things like their daily food allotment, for example. Even simple meals were a confrontation with racism.
Each cell within the Maximum Security Prison is a museum of its own, solemnizing the incarceration of one particular political prisoner. There is a picture of the prisoner alongside a placard telling his story in his own words. It is worthwhile to take in as many of these as possible in order to gain a better and more personal sense of what life might have been like in a tiny cell.
Nelson Mandela spent twenty years confined in one of these cells. There is nothing spectacular whatsoever about his cell: it contains some bedding, a table, stool and a single metal cup. It is nevertheless incredibly moving to stand before it knowing that his long imprisonment did not embitter him but instead transformed him into one of the most inspiring exponents of tolerance and forgiveness in the world.
Robben Island Museum was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. It has successfully maintained an air of integrity and authenticity while striving to educate South Africans and visitors alike on the prejudice and oppression of Apartheid rule.
Another attraction is the limestone quarry where prisoners on Robben Island were forced to do hard labour. They toiled in the blinding sun - literally. Prolonged exposure to the bright glare coming off the stone caused diminished eyesight or actual blindness in many prisoners.
The Maximum Security Prison is what most visitors come to see on Robben Island. Tours are led by ex-political prisoners which lends a distinct authenticity to the experience. It is moving to hear these men speak about the injustices of their own imprisonment as well as provide insight into the conditions of day-to-day living. It is not suprising to hear that under Apartheid rule there was a two-tiered hierarchy of blacks and coloureds, with blacks occupying the bottom tier. Black prisoners were entitled to less - when it came to things like their daily food allotment, for example. Even simple meals were a confrontation with racism.
Each cell within the Maximum Security Prison is a museum of its own, solemnizing the incarceration of one particular political prisoner. There is a picture of the prisoner alongside a placard telling his story in his own words. It is worthwhile to take in as many of these as possible in order to gain a better and more personal sense of what life might have been like in a tiny cell.
Nelson Mandela spent twenty years confined in one of these cells. There is nothing spectacular whatsoever about his cell: it contains some bedding, a table, stool and a single metal cup. It is nevertheless incredibly moving to stand before it knowing that his long imprisonment did not embitter him but instead transformed him into one of the most inspiring exponents of tolerance and forgiveness in the world.
Robben Island Museum was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. It has successfully maintained an air of integrity and authenticity while striving to educate South Africans and visitors alike on the prejudice and oppression of Apartheid rule.
When to Go
Robben Island Museum is accessible all times of the year. If you visit during Cape Town's windy season (September to March) you might find the ferry ride to the island too rocky. Anyone prone to queasiness should pick a day when the winds are less severe. Note that Cape Town's summer (November to April) overlaps its windy season making the best time to visit Robben Island Museum tricky if you're seeking warm weather. A calm day at either the beggining or end of the summer would be ideal.
Since Robben Island Museum is a popular tourist attraction for tourists, it's best to book your ticket online at www.robben-island.org.za. Booking ahead will guarantee you a seat on the ferry at a designated time.
Since Robben Island Museum is a popular tourist attraction for tourists, it's best to book your ticket online at www.robben-island.org.za. Booking ahead will guarantee you a seat on the ferry at a designated time.
Odds n' Ends
Tours of Robben Island Museum cost R230 for adults and R120 for all children under the age of 18. Tours are three and a half hours in length. They include the return ferry ride, a bus tour of the grounds, a visit to the Maximum Security Prison and an invaluable question and answer period with an ex-political prisoner.
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