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Scout Musical Talent in Recife, Brazil.
Published by Jeff McCreight, Writer
Country: Brazil 
The Experience
Like Rio de Janeiro and Salvador de Bahia, Recife in Brazil is best known for it's jubilant carnival. But Recife, the fourth largest metropolitan area in Brazil, deserves a closer look after all the crowds have left.
There is plenty to see in Recife, but the most appealing thing about the city is the easygoing and modernist attitude of its residents. Unlike Salvador: rooted in the past, or Rio: trying hard to be glamorous, Recife is laid back and open-minded. It's full of youth organizations, graffiti artists, innovative musicians and otherwise friendly and interesting folk. Recife feels like a place where stuff is happening.
The best thing to do upon arriving in Recife is to find a cultural program guide in a hostel, hotel or store. I found an office at the bus station where two very attractive girls were happy to go through the guide with me in broken English. In the end, they even gave me their phone numbers; so friendly!
Spending some time understanding the local literature and figuring out public transportation will serve you very well. I found cheap percussion lessons, art shows, a political youth squat, a symphony concert, and an open-air cultural music presentation all by using the guide.
One of the must-sees in Recife is a traditional drumming style called “maracatu.” These are huge drum groups making thunderous noise on wooden military style stick drums and big pig-iron bells. Like Samba, this music has roots in the intersections of Portuguese, African, and Indigenous cultures. The rhythms are individually simple, but layered together to create a groovy syncopation that is undeniably funky.
The best time to see maracatu is on weekend evenings downtown. The Praça do Marco Zero has a stage for concerts and events, and the streets Bom Jesus and Rua da Moeda also have bands, maracatu, live guitar, etc. The Patio de São Pedro, in the centre of old Recife, offers events with folkloric shows and dances on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (maracatu, caboclinho, afoxe). Most live shows are on the early side; so don't dawdle. Also, a little Internet research will help you get more out of the show by appreciating these traditions in cultural context.
As the evening wears on, the waterfront area in the old part of town empties out, and by nine o'clock you'll find yourself alone with the street urchins. Get a move on and check out the Rua do Apolo with its funky graffiti and cool bars.
Alternatively, you can head to the south side of town, called the Boa Viagem district, for bar hopping and good restaurants. Stroll along the beach and you'll find everything you could want to eat or drink. At Boa Viagem square or at Pavao Leao street, you're likely to find forró and other local music acts. Don't be shy, go on in and see some burning local band or a pick-up Samba jam session. Keep your eyes open and your possessions close, but don't worry. The bars have security and they don't want anything to happen to you.
In recent years, Recife has garnered a reputation in Brazil as a fertile incubator for new musical talent. New bands spring up all the time here. The beloved Chico Science started in Recife, and a whole movement called Mangue Beat evolved when young people from the region mixed multiple folk influences with rock and pop. While visiting Recife, you can see the venerated traditions that spawned all this creativity, and also the new sounds that are continually evolving here.
During the day enjoy the beautiful beaches, the bridges and canals (Recife is often called the Venice of Brazil), and nearby Olinda, a UNESCO world heritage site. At night, take some time to get into this uniquely hip city with its interesting history and its flourishing musical culture. You may be witnessing the birth of a new style.
There is plenty to see in Recife, but the most appealing thing about the city is the easygoing and modernist attitude of its residents. Unlike Salvador: rooted in the past, or Rio: trying hard to be glamorous, Recife is laid back and open-minded. It's full of youth organizations, graffiti artists, innovative musicians and otherwise friendly and interesting folk. Recife feels like a place where stuff is happening.
The best thing to do upon arriving in Recife is to find a cultural program guide in a hostel, hotel or store. I found an office at the bus station where two very attractive girls were happy to go through the guide with me in broken English. In the end, they even gave me their phone numbers; so friendly!
Spending some time understanding the local literature and figuring out public transportation will serve you very well. I found cheap percussion lessons, art shows, a political youth squat, a symphony concert, and an open-air cultural music presentation all by using the guide.
One of the must-sees in Recife is a traditional drumming style called “maracatu.” These are huge drum groups making thunderous noise on wooden military style stick drums and big pig-iron bells. Like Samba, this music has roots in the intersections of Portuguese, African, and Indigenous cultures. The rhythms are individually simple, but layered together to create a groovy syncopation that is undeniably funky.
The best time to see maracatu is on weekend evenings downtown. The Praça do Marco Zero has a stage for concerts and events, and the streets Bom Jesus and Rua da Moeda also have bands, maracatu, live guitar, etc. The Patio de São Pedro, in the centre of old Recife, offers events with folkloric shows and dances on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (maracatu, caboclinho, afoxe). Most live shows are on the early side; so don't dawdle. Also, a little Internet research will help you get more out of the show by appreciating these traditions in cultural context.
As the evening wears on, the waterfront area in the old part of town empties out, and by nine o'clock you'll find yourself alone with the street urchins. Get a move on and check out the Rua do Apolo with its funky graffiti and cool bars.
Alternatively, you can head to the south side of town, called the Boa Viagem district, for bar hopping and good restaurants. Stroll along the beach and you'll find everything you could want to eat or drink. At Boa Viagem square or at Pavao Leao street, you're likely to find forró and other local music acts. Don't be shy, go on in and see some burning local band or a pick-up Samba jam session. Keep your eyes open and your possessions close, but don't worry. The bars have security and they don't want anything to happen to you.
In recent years, Recife has garnered a reputation in Brazil as a fertile incubator for new musical talent. New bands spring up all the time here. The beloved Chico Science started in Recife, and a whole movement called Mangue Beat evolved when young people from the region mixed multiple folk influences with rock and pop. While visiting Recife, you can see the venerated traditions that spawned all this creativity, and also the new sounds that are continually evolving here.
During the day enjoy the beautiful beaches, the bridges and canals (Recife is often called the Venice of Brazil), and nearby Olinda, a UNESCO world heritage site. At night, take some time to get into this uniquely hip city with its interesting history and its flourishing musical culture. You may be witnessing the birth of a new style.
When to Go to Recife Maracatu
Recife is probably a bit more active during the summer months between November and March, but being a big city, there's always something going on. If you plan on visiting during Carnival, book ahead and leave your valuables at the hotel.
Odds n' Ends
While in Recife, don't forget to visit the Porto do Galinhas, a beautiful beach with a sinister history, and Olinda, one of the oldest European settlements in the new world. The area is also famous for surfing and a high concentration of shark attacks. But don't worry: I'm sure you'll be fine.
Places to Stay Nearby
Search over 900,000 global hotel deals from over 30 merchants. Book via Expedia, Travelocity, Hotels.com, Booking.com, Priceline and the websites of popular hotel chains.
Ventaclub Praia Serrambi is constructed in 1990 and redecorated in 2006. Hotel located on a beautiful private beach, surrounded by tropical garden; at 30 Km ...
$269 BRL+
306-room hotel located in front of Piedade Beach. 20 minutes from downtown 10 minutes from the airport and Boa Viagem Beach. It is composed by ... 1 miles away
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More Experiences Nearby
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While You're There - Tours and Trips Nearby
Combined with the prized peacefulness of a genuine fishing village, Porto de Galinhas boasts crystal-clear waters of scintillating blue and tropical fish.Once a port for ... via Recife.
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These beaches are undoubtedly among the highlights of the southern coast of Pernambuco. Renowned for their beauty and warm, crystal-clear waters, they were once a ... via Recife.
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Books and DVDs
Elsewhere on the Web
- Downtown Pub Recife
- International and Brazilian rock music.
- Lonely Planet's Entertainment List
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Language Guides
Italian 
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