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A Relaxing Float Down the San Juan River
Published by Megan Eaves, Writer
Country: United States 
The Experience
Of all the enchanting things that I hold dear about the American Southwest, flat water rafting is undoubtedly one of my favorites. A week of clear blue skies, warm muddy waters, stark canyon scenery and non-stop tanning is pretty much heaven. There are a lot of rivers to raft in the Four Corners area, especially Utah and Colorado, but the best one has got to be the length of the San Juan River that flows through the canyon lands of southern Utah.
Here, the water mellows out from its white-tipped counterparts, higher up in the mountains of Colorado. The San Juan river stretches lazily out across the dusty desert, where it has carved down into the dirt, forming high canyon walls that soar above you as your raft floats silently along. Mile after mile, you hear nothing but the gentle laps of the deep river hitting the sides of your raft. Occasionally, a hawk will glide across the sky above you, barely noticing the canyon below, letting out a lonesome squawk and settling on the timbers of a dead pinon tree.
Evening comes quickly, driving you to camp along sandy beaches or underneath one of the limestone arches, hollowed out by millenia of unrelenting river flow. The stars emerge brightly at night, lighting the narrow sliver of sky visible above the canyon walls. Under the warm glow of the crackling campfire, laughter flows easily and the world outside becomes little more than a dream you once had.
In its absence of rapids which most rafters flock to, the San Juan is one of the less-frequented rivers in the Southwest, making it an absolute gem to raft. Though not without its lumps and bumps, the San Juan's rapids don't exceed a Class III, meaning that even a beginner river runner can overtake the worst that the San Juan brings. On my third river trip as a teen, I was allowed to take the oars over Government Rapid, the most difficult on the San Juan stretch. It was such a thrill navigating through the boulders as the white water rushed up around our billowing raft.
The 84-mile stretch of the San Juan River between Bluff and Clay Hills is full of nooks and crannies. You don't just raft on this trip, you also hike, bird-watch, swim, cliff jump and mud bathe. Exploring the offshoot canyons of Grand Gulch and Slickhorn, you'll find hidden pools that fill and wane with spring rains, and overhanging ferns and columbine flowers offer sweet scents mixed with fertile desert air. There are also dozens of archaeological sites, historical remains and Native American ruins along the way. The most interesting of these include ancient petroglyphs in Chinle Canyon and the remains of a 1940's miner's wreck along Honaker Trail.
Rafting the entire 84 miles of the San Juan takes ten days, and for that time you are completely and indescribably immersed in nature. In a sense, you're transported back in time to a land undisturbed by the forces of the modern world. Here the debris of a wrecked wagon has lain dormant for the last century, and big horn sheep scale the ledges of stark red boulders, giving you quizzical looks as they pass, almost imperceptibly. Everyone should do this at least once in their life.
Here, the water mellows out from its white-tipped counterparts, higher up in the mountains of Colorado. The San Juan river stretches lazily out across the dusty desert, where it has carved down into the dirt, forming high canyon walls that soar above you as your raft floats silently along. Mile after mile, you hear nothing but the gentle laps of the deep river hitting the sides of your raft. Occasionally, a hawk will glide across the sky above you, barely noticing the canyon below, letting out a lonesome squawk and settling on the timbers of a dead pinon tree.
Evening comes quickly, driving you to camp along sandy beaches or underneath one of the limestone arches, hollowed out by millenia of unrelenting river flow. The stars emerge brightly at night, lighting the narrow sliver of sky visible above the canyon walls. Under the warm glow of the crackling campfire, laughter flows easily and the world outside becomes little more than a dream you once had.
In its absence of rapids which most rafters flock to, the San Juan is one of the less-frequented rivers in the Southwest, making it an absolute gem to raft. Though not without its lumps and bumps, the San Juan's rapids don't exceed a Class III, meaning that even a beginner river runner can overtake the worst that the San Juan brings. On my third river trip as a teen, I was allowed to take the oars over Government Rapid, the most difficult on the San Juan stretch. It was such a thrill navigating through the boulders as the white water rushed up around our billowing raft.
The 84-mile stretch of the San Juan River between Bluff and Clay Hills is full of nooks and crannies. You don't just raft on this trip, you also hike, bird-watch, swim, cliff jump and mud bathe. Exploring the offshoot canyons of Grand Gulch and Slickhorn, you'll find hidden pools that fill and wane with spring rains, and overhanging ferns and columbine flowers offer sweet scents mixed with fertile desert air. There are also dozens of archaeological sites, historical remains and Native American ruins along the way. The most interesting of these include ancient petroglyphs in Chinle Canyon and the remains of a 1940's miner's wreck along Honaker Trail.
Rafting the entire 84 miles of the San Juan takes ten days, and for that time you are completely and indescribably immersed in nature. In a sense, you're transported back in time to a land undisturbed by the forces of the modern world. Here the debris of a wrecked wagon has lain dormant for the last century, and big horn sheep scale the ledges of stark red boulders, giving you quizzical looks as they pass, almost imperceptibly. Everyone should do this at least once in their life.
When to Go to San Juan River
The rafting season occurs between April and September. The best time to raft the San Juan River is in May when spring snow melt is at its highest. The temperatures warm into the balmy 80s in late spring, making the river absolutely divine to raft. If you're applying for a permit, make sure to put in the fall beforehand or you risk losing out. Otherwise, check with the reputable rafting companies listed below for this year's scheduled trips.
Odds n' Ends
Unless you are an experienced river runner, it is impossible to raft the San Juan without the help of an experienced, licensed guide. Permits are required to raft the San Juan, which is good as it keeps traffic to a minimum, ensures that your trip will be tranquil and the river's environment kept clean and sound.
There is a lot of gear involved in river rafting. Beyond just a raft, you'll need life jackets, camping equipment, cooking gear, toilet facilities (which you should always bring in and out yourself) and so on. Luckily, there are some very competent, knowledgeable companies operating rafting trips along the San Juan. If you have the time and money, take the opportunity to do a full 10-day trip, otherwise you'll miss the San Juan canyons in their entirety. If you can't muster the time or money, most companies do shorter trips just to get you on the river.
The put-in spot for the San Juan is called Sand Island, located near the town of Bluff, Utah, nothing more than a dusty jumping off point from which to explore the desert and canyons nearby. The take-out point at the far end of the 84-mile stretch is Clay Hills, where the San Juan feeds into Lake Powell and at that point, becomes very slow running.
There is a lot of gear involved in river rafting. Beyond just a raft, you'll need life jackets, camping equipment, cooking gear, toilet facilities (which you should always bring in and out yourself) and so on. Luckily, there are some very competent, knowledgeable companies operating rafting trips along the San Juan. If you have the time and money, take the opportunity to do a full 10-day trip, otherwise you'll miss the San Juan canyons in their entirety. If you can't muster the time or money, most companies do shorter trips just to get you on the river.
The put-in spot for the San Juan is called Sand Island, located near the town of Bluff, Utah, nothing more than a dusty jumping off point from which to explore the desert and canyons nearby. The take-out point at the far end of the 84-mile stretch is Clay Hills, where the San Juan feeds into Lake Powell and at that point, becomes very slow running.
Want a Guide?
- O.A.R.S. Rafting
- Families will enjoy the easy pace of O.A.R.S. San Juan River rafting trip through the convoluted canyons of the Colorado Plateau, and the hikes to Pre-Puebloan cliff dwellings and well preserved petroglyphs.
- Wild Rivers Expeditions
- Located near Monument Valley in Bluff, Utah, Wild Rivers Expeditions has specialized in sharing this wonderful place with others for fifty years. Among commercial outfitters, we run the most and the highest quality San Juan River expeditions. We're one of the West's oldest river outfitters, and our focus on quality, learning, kindness and fun is known by clients the world over.
- Holiday Expeditions
- We offer white water rafting vacations on twelve different sections of eight rivers in Utah, Arizona, Colorado and Idaho. Each trip is unique. Different landscapes. Different-sized rapids. Some trips are designed for scenic adventurers who are a little more interested in the scenic than in the adventure. Other rafting trips deliver the best world-class whitewater the West has to offer.
- Adventure Discovery Tours
- We have twenty five years of river running to share with you. Secret side canyons. Clear water pools. Pristine fern glens. Ancient Pueblans cliff dwellings. Untouched petroglyphs. Fossils from a long-lost age. And the river itself. Exhilarating rapids to challenge the novice and test the skills of the experienced.
- Riversearch - Whitewater Rafting Trips, San Juan River
- Flowing faster than any other river in Utah, the San Juan has scores of small rapids. In addition, sand waves caused by shifting sands on the river bottom add several spontaneous roller-coaster rides to the 83-mile trip.
- Wild Adventures - The San Juan Touring Company
- One to six day trips through the magnificent canyons of the San Juan River. Explore 1000 year old artwork and cliff dwellings of the ancient Anasazi Indians. Hike mysterious side canyons. See 320 million years of exposed geologic history...observe wildlife...swim in crystal pools...and watch the desert bloom! Comfortable camps and great meals. Numerous moderate rapids on the fastest-flowing major river in the United States. This trip has been described as "the best desert river run in the country."
Places to Eat
- Cottonwood Steakhouse, Bluff, Utah
- Relax and enjoy delicious food in a casual, Old West atmosphere.
- Comb Ridge Coffee, Bluff, Utah
- Comb Ridge Coffee is a community coffee house in Bluff, Utah, offering the finest espresso in four corners area.
- Twin Rocks Cafe, Bluff, Utah
- Twin Rocks' menu contains a wide variety of local and original foods.
- Mexican Hat Lodge and Swingin' Steak
- Though this restaurant could not be rated 5 star, we found it to be full of spirit and charm and the food was delicious.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Calf Canyon Inn
- Located on the Bluff City Historic Loop, Calf Canyon Inn is a new pioneer-style home constructed over the foundation of the 1880's Hunt House, of which only one sandstone block room remains.
- Desert Rose Inn
- Located at the west entrance to historic Bluff, Utah, the Desert Rose Inn architecture is an all wood style building with massive timbers which excite the senses with their intimate charm. Set against irridescent sunsets and bold blue skies, you'll exprerience a spectacle rarely found.
- Kokopelli Inn
- The community of Bluff is tiny but full of life. Located 50 miles north of Monument Valley in the heart of Utah's Canyon Counrty, the Kokopelli Inn is the perfect place to spend the night and explore the area.
- Recapture Lodge
- RECAPTURE LODGE is located in the small community of Bluff Utah (population 250). Bluff is quietly nestled between 300-foot, red sandstone cliffs along the San Juan River.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
Search over 900,000 global hotel deals from over 30 merchants. Book via Expedia, Travelocity, Hotels.com, Booking.com, Priceline and the websites of popular hotel chains.
The hotel has an authentic trading post, which offers an extensive collection of traditional Navajo arts and crafts. It boasts partnerships with trusted tour guides ... 19 miles away
* High Speed Internet Access * AAA Approved * 100% Smoke Free Facility * Restaurant Adjacent to the Property * RV/Truck Parking * Guest Laundry ... 24 miles away
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More Experiences Nearby
- Trace the Trail of the Ancients in Monument Valley
- There is perhaps a no more unique, beautiful and awe-inspiring place to visit in the continental United States than the southwestern desert. Monument Valley stands as, well, a monument to our collective imaginings about the American west - it's played setting to dozens of old western films and, as kids, we watched the Coyote topple over the Valley's teetering clay ledges in search of his ultimate foe, the Roadrunner. Monument Valley was created through thousands of years of erosion, as rivers and lakes slowly receeded, clay and stone deposits were formed, canyons and gullies were carved, and the wind had ...37 miles away.
Books and DVDs
- Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, 2nd (Hiking Guide Series) (Paperback)
- A comprehensive guide to the trails and backcountry roads of Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park, Utah.
- San Juan River Guide (Spiral-bound)
- This comprehensive guidebook is full of information about the San Juan River and the history and lands surrounding it. It draws you into the heart of the San Juan, delving into its history, resources and issues, making it alive with over 100 maps, illustrations and photos.
- Naturalist's Guide to Canyon Country (Paperback)
- A Naturalist's Guide to Canyon Country is the perfect companion if you plan to explore the northern Colorado Plateau, that vast province that encompasses eastern Utah, far western Colorado, and sections of northern Arizona and New Mexico. It is a comprehensive and beautifully illustrated trailside refernce to plants, animals, and geology of an area that includes nine national parks and monuments.
Elsewhere on the Web
- San Juan River Rafting
- This is one of Utah's most exciting - and most flexible - rivers. An ideal trip can be planned for any group or individual.
- Rafting Guide: San Juan River, Utah/Colorado
- The San Juan is tame compared to its tributaries the Animas and Piedra. The river runs 51 miles from Sand Creek to the Navajo Reservoir in three good paddling sections. Only for a brief eight miles above Pagosa Springs is the San Juan as intimidating as its neighbors.
- San Juan River Rafting Trips
- Flowing eighty-four miles through lands the Anasazi Indians once inhabited, a San Juan River rafting trip has much to offer in the way of cultural and geologic history.
Media References
- San Juan River Video (movie)
- Holiday River Expeditions' trip down the San Juan takes you through the heart of the southwest canyon country.
- made sweet: San Juan River (blog)
- This latest trip is one to go down in the books.
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