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2016


Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park

Published by J.r. Riel, Writer

Country: Philippines

The Experience

Imagine yourself surrounded by more than 22,000 hectares of natural beauty. You are in the middle of a dramatic landscape with jagged cliffs and limestone mountains jutting out from a green sea of lush tropical vegetation. If you are a bird watcher, the air is filled with the sounds of flapping wings and exotic calls from parrots, hornbills, herons and leaf birds. If you are a nature lover, your eyes catch the clumsy movement of monitor lizards stumbling through the rustling leaves and squirrels leaping from bent tree limbs, while blinking eyes of wild macaques curiously peer back at you from behind shadowy foliage. This place of untamed geography and exotic wildlife is no mere dream. It is Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, Philippines.  

Located about 50 km north of the city of Puerto Princesa on the island of Palawan, which in turn is just an hour long flight from Manila, this UNESCO Natural World Heritage site is a hotbed of biodiversity. Additionally, it is one of the 28 finalists for the "New Seven Wonders of Nature" competition.

With such prominent accolades, this National Park is an adventure hotspot worth exploring. Historically speaking, the area has sparked interest for centuries, but it wasn't until March 26, 1971 that the Park was officially established as St. Paul's Underground River. In 1992, the boundaries were extended and the area was re-branded under its present name: Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park. In addition to its facelift, management responsibilities of the area were transferred over to Puerto Princesa City Government, which has since managed to establish a multitude of biological core-zones, reserves and protected areas balanced with a hearty flow of healthy ecotourism. 

Within the Park's boundaries there is no shortage of vivid wildlife, majestic mountains and pristine white sand beaches. However, the uncontested poster-child of Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is its namesake—the 8.2 km long underground river. Starting with a turquoise-blue lagoon at the mouth of a cave, the river flows through a series of mysterious chambers filled with stalagmite pillars, otherworldly rock formations and domed amphitheatres, before emptying itself out into the azure depths of the South China Sea. 

Although remote and wild, experiencing the underground river can be rather simple. The most straightforward way is to book a tour package, which should cover the cost of transportation, and entry fees. Some will even provide meals. Alternatively, after independently making your way to the cave entrance from Sabang Pier and registering on the list, you can simply sit back and stare up wide-eyed at the cave formations around you. You will go in for only 5 km, since the river becomes difficult to navigate after that; but the constant water dripping from the cave ceiling and the smell of bat droppings around you will keep you fully alert. The sounds of flapping wings and stories of resident pythons slithering alongside the tourist boats are enough to make your trip worth it.

Emerging from the cave, you'll feel as if you've momentarily stepped back in time and managed to return unscathed. So whether you are a seasoned biologist ready to explore an ecological hot-zone, or a day-tripping tourist trying to fill your vacation planner with adventurous activities, there will be lots for you to discover when you go underground at Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park.

When to Go to Princesa Subterranean River

By far the best time of year to visit Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is during the dry season, which usually runs from November to April. The skies are bright and clear and the temperatures are pleasant. However, although the weather is ideal at this time of year, you need to be prepared for the crowds. By the time May comes around, the rainy season is on the horizon. Expect things to stay pretty wet until October. Conversely, this also means that you will have fewer crowds to deal with and, depending on your haggling skills, you may even be able to bargain down the normal prices.  

Odds n' Ends

Getting to the park is pretty straightforward: Hop a flight to Puerto Princesa, Palawan from Manila, or from various other hub cities within The Philippines.

The vast majority, about 90 percent, of visitors opt for getting a room in the main city of Puerto Princesa, and then taking conveniently packaged and moderately priced day trips from the city centre. Alternatively, you could independently make your way north on Puerto-Roxas Road to the town of Sabang, which is on the outskirts of the Park. Buses and jeepneys ply that route at rates of Php 200-300 for the three-hour ride.

Once in Sabang, there are various accommodation choices to be found. Also, there are some entrance fees to consider. You will need to secure a permit at the Tourist Information and Assistance Center at the Sabang pier for about Php 200. You can arrange boat transport to the river for Php 700 round trip.The ride should take no more than 15 minutes. After a five minute walk to the entrance, you will be assigned a boat and driver for the hour-long trip into the cave.

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