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Pintxos Crawl through San Sebastian in the Basque Country
Published by Angela Jill, Writer
Country: Spain 
The Experience
If we believe what the Basque people of Spain say about themselves being the oldest ethnic group in Europe, then perhaps their famous pintxos (also: pinchos) are the grandfather of the Spanish tapas that we all know and love. Either way, the País Vasco knows how to put together tiny foods with enormous appeal.
The best place to enjoy pintxos is, without a doubt, San Sebastian—more specifically the Parte Vieja of San Sebastian: the old quarter east of the Playa de la Concha. The best time to enjoy pintxos (pronounced “peen-chose”) is in the evening before dinner when “donostiarras” (the locals) do their “txikiteo” (the Basque version of a pub crawl). Txikiteo (pronounced “cheeky-tay-oh”) involves moving from place to place, having a couple of pintxos at each tavern and a pint of beer, or perhaps a more local beverage. More traditional beverages are the “sidra,” an effervescent and dry cider, or the “txakoli” (pronounced “cha-koh-lee”), a dry and tangy Basque version of champagne. Both beverages are poured from as high as the bartender can reach.
The concentration of pintxos bars in the Parte Vieja is the largest in San Sebastian, which makes it the best place to experience this wonderful tasty activity. One of the first things you'll notice when going into a San Sebastian pintxos bar is that there is rubbish all over the floor. This is because, for the most part, they don't use plates and cutlery; they use napkins and hands. This is a very rustic way of eating, but food seems to taste better when you're not worried about etiquette. Afterwards, feel free to throw the napkin on the floor.
Endless combinations of foods make up these delightful morsels, and more often than not they are served on a little slice of bread and skewered with a pincho or pintxo (toothpick; or more exactly translated as “spike”). It's difficult to decide what to try from the array of beautiful pintxos that fill the bar. Generally, the staff are very friendly and can advise you on what they think you should try. Some of the best pintxos are the most simple, such as bread topped with goats cheese, caramelized onions and walnuts, or bread topped with a slice of tomato, a fried egg and a piece of bacon. Some are far more elaborate, such as foie gras and mango, or stuffed squid. Whatever it is, you can be fairly certain it will be delicious.
The best place to enjoy pintxos is, without a doubt, San Sebastian—more specifically the Parte Vieja of San Sebastian: the old quarter east of the Playa de la Concha. The best time to enjoy pintxos (pronounced “peen-chose”) is in the evening before dinner when “donostiarras” (the locals) do their “txikiteo” (the Basque version of a pub crawl). Txikiteo (pronounced “cheeky-tay-oh”) involves moving from place to place, having a couple of pintxos at each tavern and a pint of beer, or perhaps a more local beverage. More traditional beverages are the “sidra,” an effervescent and dry cider, or the “txakoli” (pronounced “cha-koh-lee”), a dry and tangy Basque version of champagne. Both beverages are poured from as high as the bartender can reach.
The concentration of pintxos bars in the Parte Vieja is the largest in San Sebastian, which makes it the best place to experience this wonderful tasty activity. One of the first things you'll notice when going into a San Sebastian pintxos bar is that there is rubbish all over the floor. This is because, for the most part, they don't use plates and cutlery; they use napkins and hands. This is a very rustic way of eating, but food seems to taste better when you're not worried about etiquette. Afterwards, feel free to throw the napkin on the floor.
Endless combinations of foods make up these delightful morsels, and more often than not they are served on a little slice of bread and skewered with a pincho or pintxo (toothpick; or more exactly translated as “spike”). It's difficult to decide what to try from the array of beautiful pintxos that fill the bar. Generally, the staff are very friendly and can advise you on what they think you should try. Some of the best pintxos are the most simple, such as bread topped with goats cheese, caramelized onions and walnuts, or bread topped with a slice of tomato, a fried egg and a piece of bacon. Some are far more elaborate, such as foie gras and mango, or stuffed squid. Whatever it is, you can be fairly certain it will be delicious.
When to Go to San Sebastian Pintxos
The best time of year for a San Sebastian pintxos crawl is in the spring and summer. The weather can be pleasant and sunny as early in the year as April. However, if you want to enjoy the beach and try a little surfing (surf boards can be rented at many of the hostels and pensions in San Sebastian) you might want to go between June and September.
There are many festivals throughout the year, and you may want to make your trip coincide with one of them. Semana Grande is a week of festivities that takes place around August 15. There are many shows and events to take part in, but one of the highlights is an international fireworks competition over the Playa de la Concha. There is also an annual Jazz festival (Jazzaldia) in late July, and an international film festival in late September. San Sebastian Day (or the Tamborrada) is on January 20. Be sure to book accommodation well in advance for any of these festivals.
There are many festivals throughout the year, and you may want to make your trip coincide with one of them. Semana Grande is a week of festivities that takes place around August 15. There are many shows and events to take part in, but one of the highlights is an international fireworks competition over the Playa de la Concha. There is also an annual Jazz festival (Jazzaldia) in late July, and an international film festival in late September. San Sebastian Day (or the Tamborrada) is on January 20. Be sure to book accommodation well in advance for any of these festivals.
Odds n' Ends
Eating pintxos is certainly budget friendly, as they can cost as little as €1. Drinks are often around €1 as well. People often say that Euskara is the language here, but don't be scared to speak Spanish and English. The bartenders are definitely used to it!
While it's wonderful that paying the bill for pinxos and drinks is still on the honour system, you have to wonder how long that will last. Better get going before these wonderful traditions change!
While it's wonderful that paying the bill for pinxos and drinks is still on the honour system, you have to wonder how long that will last. Better get going before these wonderful traditions change!
Places to Eat
- Bar Sport
- 10 Calle Fermin Calbeton. Friendly and comfortable, with a far better atmosphere than the name would indicate.
- Bar Txeptxa
- Another classic option in the Parte Vieja. 5 Calle Pescaderia.
- Egosari
- Great pinxos and also the option of full Basque meals.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Kaixo Backpackers Hostel
- Great staff and great location - right in the heart of the old section of San Sebastian. Less than 5 minutes from the beach.
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