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Pikes Peak or Bust: The Most Visited Mountain in North America

Published by Kory Kilmer, Writer

Country: United States

The Experience

Depending on whom you ask, there are 54 “fourteeners” (mountains over 14,000 ft. above sea level) in the state of Colorado. This constitutes the densest collection in North America.

These mountains have become an obsession for peak baggers the world over, making the centennial state a premier destination for those looking to lace up their hiking boots and set out for a stroll toward the sky.

Rising a mere 14,115 ft., Pikes Peak is ranked 31st and has risen above its peers to become the most visited mountain in North America; and the second in the world behind Japan’s Mt. Fuji. Either by train, automobile, or on foot, over half a million visitors find their way to the summit house annually. Ten miles west of Colorado Springs, Pikes Peak is the easternmost fourteener in the Rocky Mountains, and on a clear day the peak can be seen from Denver (more than 60 miles north), Pueblo (up to 76 miles south), and Limon (85 miles east).

Shortly after the Louisiana Purchase in 1806, President Jefferson sent Zebulon Pike to explore its southwestern borders, which included the discovery of the headwaters of the Arkansas and Red Rivers. In November of that year, Pike and his team were the first Europeans to discover the “Grand Peak,” and promptly attempted to reach its summit. With snowdrifts reportedly chest high, Pike failed to conquer the mountain, and in the process he proclaimed that “no human being could have ascended to its pinnacle.”

Pike’s prediction proved accurate for a mere 14 years before Edwin James reached the summit in 1820; and today about 15,000 hikers attempt to scale Pikes Peak annually on foot. Though a few different routes exist to the top of Pikes Peak, the vast majority of hikers use Barr Trail, with its trailhead in western Manitou Springs. At over 13 miles, Barr Trail is the longest of any trail leading to the top of one of Colorado's fourteeners, and it offers the greatest base-to-summit elevation gain in the state: 7,400 feet.

Designed and built by Fred Barr from 1914 to 1921, the first half of the trail begins with a series of switchbacks up Rocky Mountain before the trail relaxes and levels out to open meadows and aspen forests that conclude at Barr Camp six miles in.

Built in the early 1920’s Barr Camp provides overnight accommodation, food, clean water, and a place to rest to hikers before they embark on the second and most difficult part of their journey. Over the next three miles, hikers see what are now spruce and fir trees beginning to thin and disappear near the arrival of what is known as A-Frame shelter. Pushing onward, burning thighs mark every step through the tundra meadows and solitary granite landscape before climbing the 16 Golden Steps: A series of short, steep switchbacks that take hikers the final half-mile to the summit.

At the summit, hikers are often greeted by other tourists who rode the train or drove to the top, and they can now treat themselves to some of the best hot chocolate and donuts found anywhere in the world above the timberline. Now, you have to decide how to get back down!

During the gold rush of the nineteenth century, Pikes Peak became a symbol for prospectors, as they headed westward across the plains, that better days lay ahead. After a carriage ride to the summit in July of 1893, Katharine Lee Bates was inspired to jot down the words to a poem in her Colorado Springs hotel room that night. Just over a century later, “America the Beautiful” remains just as poignant. Today, “America’s Mountain” still captivates the imagination.

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Puzzle

When to Go to Pikes Peak

Barr Trail is open year-round, but due to obvious weather-related circumstances, the best time of year to climb Pikes Peak is during the summer months. Be aware that warmer temperatures in Colorado also mean thunderstorms and potential disaster for hikers. Backpacker Magazine recently named Barr Trail as one of America's ten most dangerous hikes, and Pikes Peak is one of the most electrically-active spots in the U.S. Colorado is generally ranked as the number one U.S state in terms of average elevation.

Do not be stubborn; evacuate the trail at the first sight of dangerous clouds, regardless of how close you might be to your destination. Do not wait for a warning bolt of lightning, as often it is the first strike that can prove to be fatal.

Hit the trail early in the morning, since most electrical storms in Colorado tend to be in the afternoon. The altitude is another of the biggest challenges of hiking Pikes Peak, as the air at its summit contains only 60% at sea level. Drink plenty of water while on the trail and be sure to pack enough rations to energize your way to the top. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headache, fatigue, stomach illness, dizziness, and sleep disturbance. Because exertion can easily aggravate these symptoms, hikers must constantly evaluate their own wellbeing to ensure their safety.

Odds n' Ends

Looking for a bit more of an organized way to hike to the summit of America's Mountain? Every September the Brain Injury Association of Colorado hosts the Pikes Peak Challenge. The event is a 13-mile ascent to the summit only. Once at the summit, enjoy an energy snack and the amazing views while waiting for transport back down the mountain to Manitou Springs Memorial Park, where the staff will serve you lunch.

Transportation is provided to the trailhead and back down the mountain via the Pikes Peak Highway. This year, 2010, marks the 25th anniversary of the event, and additional information, as well as registration, can be found at: www.pikespeakchallenge.com.

The end of June is also a great time to experience Pikes Peak, as the mountain hosts The Pikes Peak International Hill Climb. The second-oldest motor sports race in America, the "Race to the Clouds," was first completed in 1916 and has firmly established itself as one of the most intriguing events in the region. This race is for either the hardcore race fan or the casual observer.

During the late summer, Pikes Peak also hosts the Pikes Peak Ascent, which is a footrace up the mountain via Barr Trail, as well as the Pikes Peak Marathon, which is straight up and back down again. The events are held on consecutive days, with the Ascent taking place on a Saturday, and the Marathon on Sunday.

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