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Pikes Peak or Bust: The Most Visited Mountain in North America
Published by Kory Kilmer, Writer
Country: United States ![]()
The Experience
These mountains have become an obsession for peak baggers the world over, making the centennial state a premier destination for those looking to lace up their hiking boots and set out for a stroll toward the sky.
Rising a mere 14,115 ft., Pikes Peak is ranked 31st and has risen above its peers to become the most visited mountain in North America; and the second in the world behind Japan’s Mt. Fuji. Either by train, automobile, or on foot, over half a million visitors find their way to the summit house annually. Ten miles west of Colorado Springs, Pikes Peak is the easternmost fourteener in the Rocky Mountains, and on a clear day the peak can be seen from Denver (more than 60 miles north), Pueblo (up to 76 miles south), and Limon (85 miles east).
Shortly after the Louisiana Purchase in 1806, President Jefferson sent Zebulon Pike to explore its southwestern borders, which included the discovery of the headwaters of the Arkansas and Red Rivers. In November of that year, Pike and his team were the first Europeans to discover the “Grand Peak,” and promptly attempted to reach its summit. With snowdrifts reportedly chest high, Pike failed to conquer the mountain, and in the process he proclaimed that “no human being could have ascended to its pinnacle.”
Pike’s prediction proved accurate for a mere 14 years before Edwin James reached the summit in 1820; and today about 15,000 hikers attempt to scale Pikes Peak annually on foot. Though a few different routes exist to the top of Pikes Peak, the vast majority of hikers use Barr Trail, with its trailhead in western Manitou Springs. At over 13 miles, Barr Trail is the longest of any trail leading to the top of one of Colorado's fourteeners, and it offers the greatest base-to-summit elevation gain in the state: 7,400 feet.
Designed and built by Fred Barr from 1914 to 1921, the first half of the trail begins with a series of switchbacks up Rocky Mountain before the trail relaxes and levels out to open meadows and aspen forests that conclude at Barr Camp six miles in.
Built in the early 1920’s Barr Camp provides overnight accommodation, food, clean water, and a place to rest to hikers before they embark on the second and most difficult part of their journey. Over the next three miles, hikers see what are now spruce and fir trees beginning to thin and disappear near the arrival of what is known as A-Frame shelter. Pushing onward, burning thighs mark every step through the tundra meadows and solitary granite landscape before climbing the 16 Golden Steps: A series of short, steep switchbacks that take hikers the final half-mile to the summit.
At the summit, hikers are often greeted by other tourists who rode the train or drove to the top, and they can now treat themselves to some of the best hot chocolate and donuts found anywhere in the world above the timberline. Now, you have to decide how to get back down!
During the gold rush of the nineteenth century, Pikes Peak became a symbol for prospectors, as they headed westward across the plains, that better days lay ahead. After a carriage ride to the summit in July of 1893, Katharine Lee Bates was inspired to jot down the words to a poem in her Colorado Springs hotel room that night. Just over a century later, “America the Beautiful” remains just as poignant. Today, “America’s Mountain” still captivates the imagination.
When to Go to Pikes Peak
Do not be stubborn; evacuate the trail at the first sight of dangerous clouds, regardless of how close you might be to your destination. Do not wait for a warning bolt of lightning, as often it is the first strike that can prove to be fatal.
Hit the trail early in the morning, since most electrical storms in Colorado tend to be in the afternoon. The altitude is another of the biggest challenges of hiking Pikes Peak, as the air at its summit contains only 60% at sea level. Drink plenty of water while on the trail and be sure to pack enough rations to energize your way to the top. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headache, fatigue, stomach illness, dizziness, and sleep disturbance. Because exertion can easily aggravate these symptoms, hikers must constantly evaluate their own wellbeing to ensure their safety.
Odds n' Ends
Transportation is provided to the trailhead and back down the mountain via the Pikes Peak Highway. This year, 2010, marks the 25th anniversary of the event, and additional information, as well as registration, can be found at: www.pikespeakchallenge.com.
The end of June is also a great time to experience Pikes Peak, as the mountain hosts The Pikes Peak International Hill Climb. The second-oldest motor sports race in America, the "Race to the Clouds," was first completed in 1916 and has firmly established itself as one of the most intriguing events in the region. This race is for either the hardcore race fan or the casual observer.
During the late summer, Pikes Peak also hosts the Pikes Peak Ascent, which is a footrace up the mountain via Barr Trail, as well as the Pikes Peak Marathon, which is straight up and back down again. The events are held on consecutive days, with the Ascent taking place on a Saturday, and the Marathon on Sunday.
Want a Guide?
- Pikes Peak Cog Railway
- The Manitou and Pikes Peak Railway has a rich and colorful history of providing safe, comfortable and relaxing tours of majestic Pikes Peak. During your own trip the conductor will entertain you with the history and facts of the mountain, the region and the engineering feat that is the Manitou and Pikes Peak Railway. The Pikes Peak Cog Railway has been taking visitors on this unforgettable adventure. From the summit it’s possible to see four states, the snow-covered peaks of the Continental Divide, the cities of Denver, Manitou Springs, Colorado Springs and the historic gold camps of Cripple Creek and Victor. You’ll enjoy fantastic rock formations, spectacular vistas and breathtaking cliffs all from the comfort and safety of the world’s highest cog train.
- Pikes Peak Mountain Bike Tours
- Get ready for an exciting 7000 foot descent down one of America's most famous 14er's! Your bike ride begins at the summit of Pikes Peak (14,110 feet) where you can take photos and enjoy the breath-taking 360 degree view for as far as the eye can see. Their fun, professional guides will fit you with KONA mountain bikes and give a complete safety briefing before beginning the descent. You will marvel as the scenery changes from Alpine tundra at the top to semi-arid desert at the base-as you descend through five separate climactic life zones. To get you started, you are treated to the "Manitou Pancake and Steak House" for an all you can eat buffet complete with fresh fruit and choice of entrees. This unforgettable journey is designed for all abilities and requires no prior training or conditioning. However, if you have any health concerns please consult a physician for high altitude compatibility prior to participating. Dress for summer but bring gloves, jackets, and pants to wear over t-shirts and shorts as it can be cold at the summit.
Places to Eat
- Stagecoach Inn
- This rustic crowd-pleaser has history to thank for its name. Located in the building that was the original stage stop for the town, the restaurant still exhibits plenty of small town charm. The menu offers a wide variety of Classic Colorado Comfort Food including buffalo pot roast, steaks, bbq, burgers, fried chicken, and much more! Voted best place to take a tourist!
- Flying W Ranch
- The Flying W Ranch is an actual working mountain cattle ranch located in the foothills of Colorado Springs, Colorado. They have been specializing in authentic western food and western style entertainment since 1953. In the high season they entertain and serve dinner to over a thousand people nightly. When you attend the Chuckwagon Supper at the Flying W Ranch, you’ll catch a glimpse of the Old West, a meal typical of one that might have been served on a cattle drive of years past, cowboys singing and an atmosphere that will beckon you to escape for awhile and enjoy an evening long to be remembered.
Recommended Places to Stay
- The Cliff House
- As the premier historic hotel of the Greater Colorado Springs area, The Cliff House's history is forever intertwined with what they are today. In fact, The Cliff House is older than the State of Colorado itself! Their history includes their fair share of ups and downs: They have played host to famous dignitaries, and have been a barracks for soldiers. Later floods and fires have even threatened the hotel's very existence. But The Cliff House persevered. After their extensive remodel and grand re-opening in 1999, they quickly proved that The Cliff House is once again one of Colorado's finest luxury hotels. Nestled at the foot of majestic Pikes Peak, The Cliff House has managed to keep all the trappings of Victorian elegance and luxury and also become a leader in innovative room features with state-of-the-art technology. Since 2001, The Cliff House consecutively received the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award for both the hotel and dining room. Their dining room has also received the DiRoNa Award, and Wine Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence, every year.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
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