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Soaking in History and Calcium-Saturated Hot Springs in Pamukkale

Not yet published by Angela Jill, Writer

Country: Turkey

The Experience

Have you ever wished you could swim on glacier without getting cold? Well, it looks like the solution is quite simple: Pamukkale, meaning cotton castle in Turkish, bears a striking resemblance to ice and snow, but it does not melt in the hot Turkish sun. These travertine terraces have been formed by waters that have been heated by volcanic activity, saturated with calcium and then flow down the face of a cliff. The calcium hardens and forms the UNESCO World Heritage site that many travelers enjoy today.

Pamukkale is located in South West Turkey, about 200km north of Ölüdeniz, a resort village on the Aegean Sea, and about 200km west of Selçuk, which is a great base for seeing the ruins of Ephesus. It takes a little effort to get there, but it is well worth a stop for a few days to enjoy the slow pace of life in the village and all the sites that Pamukkale and Hierapolis have to offer.

When standing atop of the travertines looking down over the milky white layers and over the views of the distant mountains, one feels somewhat awestruck. It is evident that many people have shared this feeling for thousands of years; Hierapolis, a Greco-Roman city, was settled here, and the inhabitants used the hot springs as early as the second century B.C.E. Ruins of this ancient city still exist today, and you can see them if you walk to the top of the spring.

More recently, in the 1980s and 90s, there was a boom of tourism, and it’s easy to see why. Unfortunately, during this time, they built all the hotels on top of the cliff from which the waters flow. This stopped the flow of the water and turned the beautiful attraction into a bit of a dirty-looking mess.

Since then, Pamukkale has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is protected. If you try to wear your shoes while walking through the calcium-rich waters, a guard will miraculously appear to make sure you understand that it’s against the rules. The hotels above the cliff have been demolished. Hotels have been built below the cliffs, which is thought to have less impact on the thermal waters. Bathers are believed to have a negative effect on the site, however this is still allowed.

Now if all this history and science bores you, you can rest assured that this site will not. There are many things to keep a traveler occupied for an afternoon and well into the evening. Out of view of the travertines, on top of the cliff, there is a complex where you can eat and drink, soak in man-made hot tubs, shop for souvenirs, see the ancient ruins and you can even get the dead skin nibbled off of your feet by little fish. However, the main attraction is the (at least mostly) naturally formed pools of calcium rich water and the views you can enjoy while soaking in them.

Depending on where you are on the cliff, the water can be warm or cool. Where there is not a pool of water, the calcium is as hard as rock, but where there is water deep enough to soak in, the calcium is soft like white mud. This mud can be thrown, shaped, or smeared on body parts for the amusement of all involved. There may be some health benefits from partaking in this activity as well, but mostly, it’s fun and relaxing.

After an afternoon in the sun, you can soak up a bit of the Turkish culture, by enjoying a çay (Turkish tea), nargile (the traditional Turkish water pipe), and a game of okay (rummy with tiles) or tavla (backgammon). For all of these reasons, Pamukkale is worth a visit and worth even a large detour while you are in Turkey.

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Puzzle

When to Go to Pamukkale

The best time of year to see Pamukkale would be any time from late April to early October. If you brave the crowds and the heat of the summer months, be sure to visit the travertines of Pamukkale in the late afternoon/early evening. This will ensure that you are less likely to get a sunburn or heat stroke and it will also help you to avoid the crowds. The site opens at 8:30AM and closes at 7:30PM.

Odds n' Ends

This experience costs 20 TL to be able to walk through and wade in the travertine pools. You should wear flip flops that are easy to remove as wearing shoes in this area is prohibited. Consider bringing your swimsuit, as you can wade in the travertine pools. There is also an impressive swimming pool below the cliff and warm pools above for additional charge.

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