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Dip into Japanese Culture at a Traditional Onsen
Published by Elaine Wong, Writer
Country: Japan 
The Experience
Japan can be freezing cold during the winter, especially since the older generations believed that braving the climate without insulation or central heating was a matter of cultural pride. Or, perhaps it was just an excuse to visit the local bathhouse (sento) or hot spring (onsen); either way, a soak at one of Japan's onsen is a great way to dip into a warm cultural tradition.
Due to their ubiquity and relatively low cost, Japan's onsen are easily accessible to most travellers. Any prudish sensibilities must be left behind, and although Japan has become famous for its modesty in the last hundred years, it was traditionally much more comfortable with nudity than Western nations. This can still be seen in Japanese onsen culture in the many mixed gender onsen still operating.
Leave your modesty at the door and embrace onsen tradition. Although it superfluous, it is customary that you bathe before you enter the hot spring. There is also a no clothing policy that is strictly enforced, and trying to smuggle a towel in will only leave you with a scolding from other bathers. All you are permitted is a face towel no larger than two hands, which you can use to some advantage as you shimmy and shiver your way to the nearest pool and slip into the steaming water. While scalding at first, the water soon becomes comfortable. Often, snow lines the side of the Japanese onsen, somehow not melting despite the steam rising just centimeters away. Sit back and soak in the healing properties of the hot spring, while enjoying well-manicured gardens and soaring natural scenery. Afterward, most onsen have two or three saunas (if not more) that you can relax in before showering and leaving all limber and refreshed.
As a cultural staple, there are many onsen in Japan, and it is safe to assume you can find one close to wherever your travels take you. There are also countless sento in every almost every town. Sento are similar to onsen in most aspects, except for the lack of sulfur, and there are added supplements: You can dip into pools of green tea, cream; as well as various mud baths. Going to an onsen is not only a way to warm yourself up in winter; it also lets you get closer to both Japanese culture and Japanese nature in a way few other experiences can match.
Due to their ubiquity and relatively low cost, Japan's onsen are easily accessible to most travellers. Any prudish sensibilities must be left behind, and although Japan has become famous for its modesty in the last hundred years, it was traditionally much more comfortable with nudity than Western nations. This can still be seen in Japanese onsen culture in the many mixed gender onsen still operating.
Leave your modesty at the door and embrace onsen tradition. Although it superfluous, it is customary that you bathe before you enter the hot spring. There is also a no clothing policy that is strictly enforced, and trying to smuggle a towel in will only leave you with a scolding from other bathers. All you are permitted is a face towel no larger than two hands, which you can use to some advantage as you shimmy and shiver your way to the nearest pool and slip into the steaming water. While scalding at first, the water soon becomes comfortable. Often, snow lines the side of the Japanese onsen, somehow not melting despite the steam rising just centimeters away. Sit back and soak in the healing properties of the hot spring, while enjoying well-manicured gardens and soaring natural scenery. Afterward, most onsen have two or three saunas (if not more) that you can relax in before showering and leaving all limber and refreshed.
As a cultural staple, there are many onsen in Japan, and it is safe to assume you can find one close to wherever your travels take you. There are also countless sento in every almost every town. Sento are similar to onsen in most aspects, except for the lack of sulfur, and there are added supplements: You can dip into pools of green tea, cream; as well as various mud baths. Going to an onsen is not only a way to warm yourself up in winter; it also lets you get closer to both Japanese culture and Japanese nature in a way few other experiences can match.
When to Go to Onsen Japan
The best time of year to visit a Japanese onsen is during the winter because nothing warms you up faster than a nice hot bath. Onsen are one of the few experiences that allow you to breathe the crisp winter air and watch the cover of snow without being touched by cold. Early spring and late autumn are also recommended, since the view of red leaves and blossoming trees, that often border the onsen, are beautiful. It will also be less busy than onsen during the winter.
Odds n' Ends
Costs range from US$3 for a small local bathhouse (with no sauna and only one or two pools) to around US$25 for a moderate size hot spring (with a number of pools, jets, waterfalls and saunas). Staying at an onsen overnight is generally much more expensive, and the best onsen are reserved only for overnight guests.
Caution: due to the association of tattoos with gang activity in Japan, most onsen and sento frown on patrons with tattoos. Though they tend to be more accepting of foreigners, you should check about the rules beforehand. Keep in mind that you have to bathe before going into the communal bath (soap/shampoo and showers are often provided), and you are expected to bathe again after soaking. The onsen will provide you with a small hand towel (also known as a “modesty towel”) that you may carry into the baths with you; otherwise you are expected to be naked. Smaller places may not provide towels free of charge, though rentals are usually available in those cases. Lastly, follow regular precautions of hot springs: Do not go if pregnant, inebriated, have heart disorders or respiratory problems. And you should not soak for more than an hour at a time.
Caution: due to the association of tattoos with gang activity in Japan, most onsen and sento frown on patrons with tattoos. Though they tend to be more accepting of foreigners, you should check about the rules beforehand. Keep in mind that you have to bathe before going into the communal bath (soap/shampoo and showers are often provided), and you are expected to bathe again after soaking. The onsen will provide you with a small hand towel (also known as a “modesty towel”) that you may carry into the baths with you; otherwise you are expected to be naked. Smaller places may not provide towels free of charge, though rentals are usually available in those cases. Lastly, follow regular precautions of hot springs: Do not go if pregnant, inebriated, have heart disorders or respiratory problems. And you should not soak for more than an hour at a time.
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Media References
- Soaking and Steaming in Japan - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- Snowbound in Japan - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
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