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Eat Your Fill at a Night Market in Taipei

Published by Camilla Cheung, Writer

Country: Taiwan

The Experience

The best food in Taipei is enjoyed at night, on the street, from a cart. Anyone who visits the capital of Taiwan will tell you that you must visit a night market to truly sample the culinary excellence of Taipei. Forget black-vested waiters with white towels. This is time to get down and dirty, and plunge right into the mounds of “stinky” tofu, fried sausages, and oyster pancakes. (“Down and dirty” was just an expression—most vendors are quite clean).

Of the six major night markets in Taipei, Shilin Market is the biggest and the most famous. A trip to Shilin Market is like going to the county fair, but with heaps more crowds, neon lights, and a much wider variety of food. Immediately upon entering the market, visitors will find themselves bombarded with music from the arcade games, vendors hawking cheap jewellery and clothing, and the smell of frying grease. One part of the market is devoted to street food, where most food devotees will head first. Forget your diet; you're going to be packing in a lot of calories tonight.

First and foremost, the king of Taiwanese food is the oyster pancake. This humble concoction has somehow managed to elbow its way into the forefront of Taiwanese cuisine, becoming the icon of Taiwanese food. Batter and eggs are fried together with a heap of little sweet oysters, a handful of lettuce, and topped with a sweet sauce. Get one fresh enough, and you'll be in love. Hint: follow the crowds of locals to the best food stands.

Next on the must-try list is the slightly raunchier stinky tofu. These squares of fried tofu may smell like something died in your shoes, but you'd never be able to tell from the hordes of locals gobbling down this Taiwanese specialty. Think of these squares of fermented tofu as the Asian equivalent of blue cheese, and you'll do all right.

After the stinky tofu, something more pleasing to the Western palate is in order, so pick up a barbecued Taiwanese sausage. These red sausages are sweet, savoury, and dripping with your choice of sauce. Round out your meal with a serving of fresh dumplings, steamed or fried. After that, cool off with a bowl of silky-smooth, cold sweet tofu. Tofu as smooth as custard melts on your tongue in a bath of cool sweet gingery soup; the perfect end to a heady meal.

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Puzzle

When to Go to Shilin Market

Shilin Market is easily accessible from the Shilin MRT stop in downtown Taipei. Popular anytime, but especially on Fridays and weekends, the Shilin Night Market is usually crowded, so be prepared. In addition to food, there are several alleys devoted to cheap clothing and jewellery, and places where you can play games and bring home a stuffed toy as a prize.

There's no need to bargain at the night market here, as there is a standard price for everything, posted on the sign outside the stand. Although if you don't read Chinese, you won't be able to read it anyway! Expect prices to be slightly higher than they would be in much of China and Southeast Asia, but slightly lower than Western prices (depending on the exchange rate).

Odds n' Ends

You'll be generally visiting at night, so there's no need for sunscreen. In the summer, however, the weather stays hot and humid even in the evening, so be sure to stay hydrated at one of the many tea stands that sell tea drinks and fresh juices.

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Language Guides

Japanese , Mandarin are some of the languages spoken in Taiwan. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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