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Reign over the Alps from the Towering Spires of Neuschwanstein Castle
Published by Aaron Wilson, Writer
Country: Germany ![]()
The Experience
The tree line opened up just before our ascension to the tiny quaint town of Hohenschwangau, which housed the infamous Neuschwanstein Castle. It was the very structure that Disney modeled their castle after. As we studied the dwarfing mountain range from afar, the mountains enveloped the castle, causing us to nearly miss the sight of it. It was surreal and odd, yet something about it just seemed right. Neuschwanstein Castle sat perched on the apex of a smaller crest, while two large rock vestibules adorned either side and soared into the sky. We both stared in amazement, was this some sort of Bavarian mirage? The backdrop absorbed Neuschwanstein rendering it as natural as the snow resting on the rock faces. It was essentially the perfect marriage between a man made structure and nature.
We parked the car in town and opted to walk the paved mountain road to the Neuschwanstein Castle. Twenty-five minutes and a near cardiac arrest later, we made it. However, the true effects of my condition seeped in as my heart pounded against my chest cavity wall and exhaustion scorched my lungs. We now stood face to brick with the monumental figure, as the land fell away from us on three sides. In one direction lay the flat expanse of the German farming community, in all other directions jagged angles of the range pierced the blue skies. Unfortunately, our off peak visit offered only limited access to the paths and routes cut out around the mountainous terrain.
Perhaps more worrisome was we were now too close to Neuschwanstein Castle to capture the picture that defined the true essence of it. We walked the perimeter of it, craning our necks back and soaking in the beauty of the magnificent structure one spire at a time – we were just simply too close to appreciate the entirety of the design at once. It was a beauty that would be more greatly appreciated as the sum of its parts. Unsatisfied and slightly annoyed we began our descent back to the car. Only a few hundred metres later my friend noticed a barrier blocking an ice and snow covered passage, suggesting it must lead to a better view, he eventually coaxed me into the restricted area. After ascending the snowy and icy walkway we finally reached a cleared road and continued up. As we continued our ascent, an opening in the tree line that had since dotted the path appeared ahead, and so did 2 older men, one holding a large camera. A hint of fear pierced my heart sending it into a rapid pace and my stomach dropped – We were caught! What would we say? What would we do? My friend and I looked at each other nervously, both believing our adventure was done, but nothing was said and we never broke stride as we chugged towards them.
A few more paces and we were within earshot. “Hey would you like to do an interview?” Confusion splashed our faces, and the two men explained, “ We're from Brazilian TV and we are doing a piece on Neuschwanstein Castle.” Neither one of us were eager to do it. We were more interested in our surroundings, but the interview request paled our initial thoughts of being caught.
At the moment we stood perched on a cliff peering at what could have been a piece of Ansel Adams work. A large valley lay before us, slightly to the right, the now deserted town of Hohenschwangau sat quiet, another castle sat elevated overlooking the town in one direction and in the other a glacial lake kissed the foot of the mountain range in the distance. Behind us, the spires of Neuschwanstein jetted above the tree line – we pined for a better view.
“So if you wouldn’t mind, we’d love to interview you on your thoughts of Neuschwanstein.” The man’s sentence snapped my attention back to the moment. We obliged to give the interview, and fortunately he directed the questions to my friend. Once on camera my friend switched his tone of voice, one that’s hard to describe, perhaps a mix of arrogance and feigned enthusiasm, or perhaps just plain ‘ass’. Either way I was safe. I took the opportunity to immerse in the unimaginable beauty and snap some pictures that I only knew would bring little justice with my digital camera. My solace was interrupted by the men’s request to also do an interview. Awkward and uninterested I offered very little enthusiasm or originality with regards to their questions.
After the strange Brazilian interview on the deserted German mountain we continued to climb higher, following the path and evading more barriers. It eventually led to a small, two person wide bridge called Marienbruecke, perhaps spanning 50 metres in length, it joined the two mountains, and crossed a rocky gorge that lay hundreds of feet below. Fearing of heights, I cautiously stepped onto the bridge, it was only after a few paces in did I realize the 2 x 8 boards were sparsely supported as the wood creaked and bent under my frame. ‘We’ve come too far’ I thought as I continued slowly to the middle of the bridge, gripping the metal railing, until the blood ran from my knuckles rendering them white. The Neuschwanstein Castle now stood directly in front of us, some distance away. It was perched on a plateau, where cliffs fell from the foundation on three sides. It was the ideal image, capturing both the majestic presence of the castle and the natural elements that embraced it. We both snapped some pictures and legitimized our breach.
When to Go to Neuschwanstein
It is useful to note that it is only entry into the actual castle that you need to pay for - everything else is free. Entry into Neuschwanstein can only be gained through the purchase of guided tours which cost 9 Euro, these tickets can be obtained at the base in Hohenschwangau. You can also buy these tickets before hand online to avoid line ups at the castle and secure your preferred tour time. Also, no pictures can be taken inside Neuschwanstein. The trails and paths surrounding it do not require any payment, and I highly recommend taking the time to walk the exterior and navigate the well trodded paths that offer incredible views.
Any trip to Munich can be easily supplemented with a simple commute to Neuschwanstein. Direct trains are available from Munich to Füssen but many journeys require a transfer at Buchloe. Both direct and transfer journeys take just over two hours and cost the same. Trains depart from Munich Main Station (München Hauptbahnhof) from Platforms 27 – 35 at the north end of this large station, located at the far right when facing the trains.
Odds n' Ends
Neuschwanstein is a castle in name only, it was not a fortress in the traditional sense, rather King Ludwig II of Bavaria created it as a retreat and to pay tribute to famed opera composer Richard Wagner. Built between 1869 and 1886, only a third of the castle was completed before Ludwig was found mentally unfit by the government and consequently only stayed in the completed rooms for a handful times.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Hotel Muller
- A warm welcome awaits you at the Hotel Müller in Hohenschwangau which lies in a wonderful position between the Royal Castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
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Elsewhere on the Web
- Neuschwanstein Castle Travel Planner - About.com
- Perched over one of the world's prettiest gorges, Neuschwanstein Castle is everyone's fantasy dream. It's the image you've seen everywhere that makes you want to start planning your trip to Germany.
- Neuschwanstein Castle - the myth of Neuschwanstein in Bavaria - GermanPlaces.com
- Neuschwanstein Castle - Neuschwanstein in Germany is one of the most famous castles of the world and was built and created by King Ludwig of Bavaria.
- Neuschwanstein Castle - NeuschwansteinCastle.net
- The Neuschwanstein Castle is one most visited castles in Germany and one of the most popular tourist destination in Europe.
- Welcome to Hohenschwangau - Hohenschwangau.de
- Official site. Book tours tickets online.
Media References
- Bavaria's Royal Enigma Still Fascinates - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- Ludwig II is Bavaria's Apollo and Prince Charming. He has been the subject of more than 5,000 books, plays, films, poems and dances, a symbol of tragic beauty admired by dreamers from Verlaine to Visconti.
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