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Trample through Rwandan Jungle to the Mountain Gorillas of the Virungas
Published by Jason Hussong, Writer
Country: Rwanda 
The Experience
The gorillas of Rwanda's Virunga Mountains were thrust into the mainstream and popularized by the Sigourney Weaver film Gorillas in the Mist, which was adapted from gorilla research expert Dian Fossey's book.
The critically endangered mountain gorillas of Africa almost became extinct in the same century they were discovered by outsiders. Thanks in large part to the efforts of people like Fossey, it is now possible to personally witness their powerful beauty in the wild. Dian Fossey argued against visitors and the further habituation of the mountain gorillas in the Volcanoes National Park, saying that, "Any observer is an intruder in the domain of a wild animal." But the number of mountain gorillas in the wild has drastically multiplied from 242, when Fossey published her book, to over 1,000 today. This is partly due to the awareness created through conservation tourism, such as treks to see the mountain gorillas from the Rwandan side of the Virunga Mountains: the border between it, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Blanketed in the morning mist, the Virungas make for both an imposing and inspiring sight at the start of the journey to the gorillas where off-road vehicles shuttle eager tourists to the trailhead. But their secrets aren't immediately revealed. The increasingly difficult hike up the trail demands appreciation and respect from everyone who attempt to reach the gorillas. The goal is worth working for though, as the powerful and beautiful Virungas mountain gorillas mesmerize their brief visitors at more than 7,200 feet above sea level (2,200 meters). The only disappointment is that more time to spend in their presence isn't possible.
The trail leads deep into the Virungas National Park, through farm fields with kids shouting, "Hallo!" to passing gorilla enthusiasts, through bamboo forests, and into a jungle that devours any trace of the trail. And this is where it becomes difficult, climbing over and down branches and vines to reach the mountain gorillas, all the while wondering if Dian Fossey may have been right to discourage prospective tourists.
As the trail becomes more difficult, so does the elevation, since the gorillas can be found as high as 14,100 feet (4,300 meters) above sea level. Trackers head out early in the morning to scout the mountain gorilla’s location. Despite the knowledge that the gorillas are just ahead, the first appearance of the animals is one of shock and surprise, quickly followed by the thought of, “Holy cow, I need my camera!” It becomes instantly apparent that the tripping and sliding, the bugs and the relative jungle filth, are all worthwhile to have arrived in the gorilla’s presence; in their home as guests.
The mountain gorillas move graciously through the foliage as they look for lunch, or while working on building their day nests for naps. Under the observation of the adults, the babies play with each other and show off for visitors who they are as equally curious about.
The mountain gorillas are gracious hosts, generously allowing time for thousands of photographs before subtly indicating that the visit is over and it’s time for this group of gorillas to continue on for more food, or a better place to build their nests. The difficult trek back to the trailhead and civilization follows the same path, which is no less difficult the second time around. Stories are immediately re-lived and create a light atmosphere that can lift the hikers from the exhaustion that has most certainly set in after the near-impossible hike. It was a shared journey, a safari that has unexpectedly resulted in a greater appreciation for the mountain gorillas. But, as Dian Fossey wrote in her journal just before her murder at her home at the Karisoke Research Center in the Virunga Mountains on December 26, 1985:
"When you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate on the preservation of the future."
The critically endangered mountain gorillas of Africa almost became extinct in the same century they were discovered by outsiders. Thanks in large part to the efforts of people like Fossey, it is now possible to personally witness their powerful beauty in the wild. Dian Fossey argued against visitors and the further habituation of the mountain gorillas in the Volcanoes National Park, saying that, "Any observer is an intruder in the domain of a wild animal." But the number of mountain gorillas in the wild has drastically multiplied from 242, when Fossey published her book, to over 1,000 today. This is partly due to the awareness created through conservation tourism, such as treks to see the mountain gorillas from the Rwandan side of the Virunga Mountains: the border between it, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Blanketed in the morning mist, the Virungas make for both an imposing and inspiring sight at the start of the journey to the gorillas where off-road vehicles shuttle eager tourists to the trailhead. But their secrets aren't immediately revealed. The increasingly difficult hike up the trail demands appreciation and respect from everyone who attempt to reach the gorillas. The goal is worth working for though, as the powerful and beautiful Virungas mountain gorillas mesmerize their brief visitors at more than 7,200 feet above sea level (2,200 meters). The only disappointment is that more time to spend in their presence isn't possible.
The trail leads deep into the Virungas National Park, through farm fields with kids shouting, "Hallo!" to passing gorilla enthusiasts, through bamboo forests, and into a jungle that devours any trace of the trail. And this is where it becomes difficult, climbing over and down branches and vines to reach the mountain gorillas, all the while wondering if Dian Fossey may have been right to discourage prospective tourists.
As the trail becomes more difficult, so does the elevation, since the gorillas can be found as high as 14,100 feet (4,300 meters) above sea level. Trackers head out early in the morning to scout the mountain gorilla’s location. Despite the knowledge that the gorillas are just ahead, the first appearance of the animals is one of shock and surprise, quickly followed by the thought of, “Holy cow, I need my camera!” It becomes instantly apparent that the tripping and sliding, the bugs and the relative jungle filth, are all worthwhile to have arrived in the gorilla’s presence; in their home as guests.
The mountain gorillas move graciously through the foliage as they look for lunch, or while working on building their day nests for naps. Under the observation of the adults, the babies play with each other and show off for visitors who they are as equally curious about.
The mountain gorillas are gracious hosts, generously allowing time for thousands of photographs before subtly indicating that the visit is over and it’s time for this group of gorillas to continue on for more food, or a better place to build their nests. The difficult trek back to the trailhead and civilization follows the same path, which is no less difficult the second time around. Stories are immediately re-lived and create a light atmosphere that can lift the hikers from the exhaustion that has most certainly set in after the near-impossible hike. It was a shared journey, a safari that has unexpectedly resulted in a greater appreciation for the mountain gorillas. But, as Dian Fossey wrote in her journal just before her murder at her home at the Karisoke Research Center in the Virunga Mountains on December 26, 1985:
"When you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate on the preservation of the future."
When to Go to Rwanda Mountain Gorilla
Saying Rwanda has a rainy season is like saying Ireland has one; there's always bound to be rain in the Virunga Mountains. However, the temperatures are mild and comfortable throughout the year. If possible, arrive for the annual baby gorilla naming ceremony (Kwita Izina) in the summer since it's an opportune time to experience the culture and learn more about the mountain gorillas, particularly the babies born in the previous year. Just be sure to book hotel rooms as soon as the date is set, since they fill up fast.
Odds n' Ends
Plan for a hard and difficult hike, possibly one of the most difficult you'll ever experience, since the elevations are high and the trails can be ankle turning. Encounters with thorny bushes and fire ants, possibly even a wild buffalo, can leave you wondering why, as you're covered from head to toe in Virunga Mountain jungle dirt from slipping and sliding on the trail, you even decided to do this in the first place.
The hike to the mountain gorillas, despite the assistance of guides, guards and porters, is not the best of ideas unless you're prepared for a hike that will surely leave you exhausted at the end. That said, it's entirely possible you'll luck out too and get a short and easy trail where the gorillas can be found relaxing just inside the park. You may have a sunny day with little or no rain that will make any extra packing unnecessary, but it's always better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
So, while you hope for the best, plan for the worst and pack breathable long-sleeve shirts to protect from the nettles, good hiking boots with ankle covers to prevent the ants from climbing up your pants, and proper rain gear in case you get caught in a downpour. Also note that this is an expensive journey. It's not cheap to get to Rwanda in the first place, so it's really just another brick in the pile. The $500 park and hiking fee can discourage some wildlife enthusiasts, but if you can afford the flight to Rwanda anyway, don't let it deter you, as this can easily be the most memorable experience during your visit, if not of your life.
The hike to the mountain gorillas, despite the assistance of guides, guards and porters, is not the best of ideas unless you're prepared for a hike that will surely leave you exhausted at the end. That said, it's entirely possible you'll luck out too and get a short and easy trail where the gorillas can be found relaxing just inside the park. You may have a sunny day with little or no rain that will make any extra packing unnecessary, but it's always better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
So, while you hope for the best, plan for the worst and pack breathable long-sleeve shirts to protect from the nettles, good hiking boots with ankle covers to prevent the ants from climbing up your pants, and proper rain gear in case you get caught in a downpour. Also note that this is an expensive journey. It's not cheap to get to Rwanda in the first place, so it's really just another brick in the pile. The $500 park and hiking fee can discourage some wildlife enthusiasts, but if you can afford the flight to Rwanda anyway, don't let it deter you, as this can easily be the most memorable experience during your visit, if not of your life.
More Experiences Nearby
- Adventure Trek to the Okapi Wildlife Reserve
- Deep in the Ituri rainforest in the heart of the Democratic Republic of Congo, a small population of a gentle, indigenous animal called “okapi” prevail. The okapi is the only known cousin of the giraffe, with a similar striped pattern on the hind and a deep purplish coat. The curious okapi have resided in the Reserve in the town of Epulu since 1952, when the sanctuary was established to breed the animals. Listed as an endangered species, this world heritage site was created in an effort to conserve the okapi species. Travel to Congo and embark on a trek to ...88 miles away.
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