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Savour the Surreal at the Sculpture Gardens of Las Pozas
Published by Jason Hussong, Writer
Country: Mexico 
The Experience
Las Pozas, which means “The Pools,” is an eccentric and surreal sculpture garden high in the rain forest outside Xilitla, Mexico. English poet and artist Edward James built Las Pozas because he “wanted a Garden of Eden set up,” and what he found on a visit to Los Angeles in the 1940s wasn’t to his liking. Instead, “Mexico was far more romantic,” he explained, and there was “far more room than there (was) in crowded Southern California.”
In the lush mountains seven hours north of Mexico City, and about 2,000 feet (610 meters) above sea level, Las Pozas sits on 80 acres (320,000 meters2) that Edward James chose as the ideal location for his Eden. Prior to building the Las Pozas gardens, James planted orchids, up to 29,000 at one time in and around the natural waterfalls and pools. But in 1962 an early frost destroyed all his work. So instead of replanting, James spent millions of dollars and employed countless workers to create a surreal concrete garden that was inspired by both the orchids that were once there as well as the surrounding jungle vegetation.
From 1949 to 1984 James built 36 surrealistic concrete structures in Las Pozas, Mexico. These palaces and pagodas hold such names as “The House on Three Floors Which Will in Fact Have Five or Four or Six,” as well as “A Roof Like a Whale.” Here, in the moss covered sub-tropical jungle, concrete spiral staircases lead to nowhere, buildings are more like mazes, and concrete towers pierce the sky. Following the labyrinth like trails, bridges, and paths will only bring you deeper into Edward's magical world. Everywhere you turn there are hidden details of art amongst the wild, and as time continues on, so does the jungle in its rise to reclaim Las Pozas.
The Las Pozas sculpture garden was an effort that cost Edward James more than $5 million dollars, as well as his surrealist art collection. James was a wealthy man after inheriting a 6,000 acre estate upon his father’s death, but he had to auction off his art in order to generate the necessary funds. Before Las Pozas, Xilitla Edward James lived in a 300 room mansion in England – now a center for the arts known as West Dean College. James was the only son of an American railroad magnate and a Scottish socialite who was rumored to be fathered by the Prince of Wales, later known as Edward VII. That was all a far cry from the jungles of Mexico, but it’s where he became impassioned as a patron to surrealist artists, most notably Salvador Dali in 1938. He also ran in various intellectual circles throughout Europe and the United States, but abandoned it all for Las Pozas.
In the lush mountains seven hours north of Mexico City, and about 2,000 feet (610 meters) above sea level, Las Pozas sits on 80 acres (320,000 meters2) that Edward James chose as the ideal location for his Eden. Prior to building the Las Pozas gardens, James planted orchids, up to 29,000 at one time in and around the natural waterfalls and pools. But in 1962 an early frost destroyed all his work. So instead of replanting, James spent millions of dollars and employed countless workers to create a surreal concrete garden that was inspired by both the orchids that were once there as well as the surrounding jungle vegetation.
From 1949 to 1984 James built 36 surrealistic concrete structures in Las Pozas, Mexico. These palaces and pagodas hold such names as “The House on Three Floors Which Will in Fact Have Five or Four or Six,” as well as “A Roof Like a Whale.” Here, in the moss covered sub-tropical jungle, concrete spiral staircases lead to nowhere, buildings are more like mazes, and concrete towers pierce the sky. Following the labyrinth like trails, bridges, and paths will only bring you deeper into Edward's magical world. Everywhere you turn there are hidden details of art amongst the wild, and as time continues on, so does the jungle in its rise to reclaim Las Pozas.
The Las Pozas sculpture garden was an effort that cost Edward James more than $5 million dollars, as well as his surrealist art collection. James was a wealthy man after inheriting a 6,000 acre estate upon his father’s death, but he had to auction off his art in order to generate the necessary funds. Before Las Pozas, Xilitla Edward James lived in a 300 room mansion in England – now a center for the arts known as West Dean College. James was the only son of an American railroad magnate and a Scottish socialite who was rumored to be fathered by the Prince of Wales, later known as Edward VII. That was all a far cry from the jungles of Mexico, but it’s where he became impassioned as a patron to surrealist artists, most notably Salvador Dali in 1938. He also ran in various intellectual circles throughout Europe and the United States, but abandoned it all for Las Pozas.
When to Go to Las Pozas
The best time of year to visit Los Pozas, Xilitla is at the end of the summer as there are several cultural events, displays and festivals at the end of August. Other great times would be during the Cuidad Santos Feast Day (end of September) and during the Day of the Dead celebrations (end of October). Los Pozas would still be enjoyable any time of year, but these other interesting experiences would add a bit of extra spice to make a visit even more memorable.
Odds n' Ends
The Las Pozas gardens are open daily from 9am until about sunset. It's best to get there early and avoid the heat and mosquitos, which can be quite annoying.
Make sure to also allow a few days to explore the other great cultural attractions in the area. Little known Xilitla is full of experiences worth having and places worth exploring.
Make sure to also allow a few days to explore the other great cultural attractions in the area. Little known Xilitla is full of experiences worth having and places worth exploring.
Places to Stay Nearby
Search over 900,000 global hotel deals from over 30 merchants. Book via Expedia, Travelocity, Hotels.com, Booking.com, Priceline and the websites of popular hotel chains.
The Misión Jalpan is located in Jalpan making it one of the best hotels to stay at while in town.The Misión Jalpan boasts a convenient ... 33 miles away
Country Inn & Suites- Ciudad Valles features 70 comfortable rooms and 7 suites offering Wireless High Speed Internet. Hotel offers Complimentary Breakfast, indoor pool, fitness ... 40 miles away
$892 MXN+
+ 3 others. Show all.
More Experiences Nearby
- Base Jump in the Cave of Swallows, Mexico
- There's adventure travel and then there's the Cave of Swallows, which takes adventure travel to a whole other level. As the deepest cave shaft in the world, there's only one way to see the Cave of Swallows, and that's down. This is the Mount Everest of caves, and adventure travellers and groups of outdoor enthusiasts make the trek each year to the pit cave that is deep in the Mexican forest. Located in the small town of Aquismón in the state of San Luis Potosi, Mexico, the Cave of Swallows is certainly off the beaten path, away from the town ...16 miles away.
Books and DVDs
Elsewhere on the Web
Media References
- Dream Works - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- Where a Poet Played God - FT.com (newspaper)
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Language Guides
Japanese 
,
Spanish
are some of the languages spoken in Mexico. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!
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