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Rope Swing into Kuang Si Falls in Luang Prabang
Published by Alanna Goldstein, Writer
Country: Lao People's Democratic Republic 
The Experience
Disembarking in Luang Prabang, Laos after a two-day boat journey from Thailand, the last thing I wanted to do was see any more water. But within moments of entering this charming and beautiful French-inspired city sitting mysteriously in the middle of the Laotian jungle, we were approached by several tuk-tuk drivers repeating, "Kuang Si? You want to go to waterfall?"
I'd seen my fair share of waterfalls already and was somewhat reluctant to leave this beautiful place to see yet another cascade of water. But as the night wore on, the hum of the words "Kuang Si" seemed to linger on the mouths of every tourist I met; and so, it seemed, I had to go.
Bright and early we awoke and climbed into the back of the tuk-tuk, enduring a bumpy ride down misty dirt roads that seemed to last forever. Just when I thought we were being taken for a figurative ride rather than a literal one, we pulled into the Kuang Si parking lot already filling with other tuk-tuk drivers lolling about, smoking and joking together; and we got off.
A short walk down a jungle path, then a small entrance fee paid; and then... stunning. Magical. Fairy-tale. Almost unbelievable in it's beauty. Even after seeing a number of waterfalls in Australia, New Zealand and Thailand, Kuang Si Waterfall took my breath away. A long cascade of cloudy turquoise plunged over limestone cliffs into a pool several hundred meters below. This pool emptied further down into another pool of pristine turquoise, and another, and another, and so on. It looked like a scene from FernGully: The Last Rainforest; and I half expected to see fairies flitting playfully about my head. Instead there were butterflies.
Deciding that the thing to do would be to work up a sweat before jumping into those enticing pools, we began to climb up a path that wound its way along the right side of Kuang Si Falls. This was a slippery endeavour that had to be abandoned halfway up as we realized that coming down would be nothing short of treacherous were we to go any further. Even from that vantage point, it was clear to see that Kuang Si Waterfall looked deceptively smaller from the ground than it actually was, and that the river diving fearlessly over the edge of those jagged cliffs originated a long way up.
Climbing gingerly back down (and sliding at least part of the way), we worked our way towards the calmer pools away from the initial plunge. This was where children and adults, tourists and locals alike were escaping the midday heat with a swim. The gentle cascades from Kuang Si Waterfall formed lagoons that were perfect for a cooling dip, and the water felt soft and refreshing against our muddy, sweaty skin.
The brave in our group began to jump off the top of the small cliff, and again I felt that I was reliving a scene in a movie. After a lengthy period of lounging in the Kuang Si waters like the nymphs we felt ourselves to be, we towelled off and ate a quick snack before packing up our things. As we returned to the parking lot, I noticed a sign that read "Bear Rescue Centre," and a path leading into the forest. We followed the path and came across the aforementioned "Centre"—a series of cages housing bears that had been rescued from traffickers and poachers.
In much of Asia, wild Black Bears are captured, and their bile (considered a tonic) is extracted, leaving them in very poor condition. These bears, most of which can never return to the wild, were a sobering reminder of the rights that animals, and indeed many humans, still lack in much of the developing world. After a visit with these poor creatures, we climbed back into our tuk-tuk for the return trip to Luang Prabang. We left with a feeling that although there may be much suffering in this world, we were some of the fortunate few lucky enough to have had a taste of paradise at Kuang Si.
I'd seen my fair share of waterfalls already and was somewhat reluctant to leave this beautiful place to see yet another cascade of water. But as the night wore on, the hum of the words "Kuang Si" seemed to linger on the mouths of every tourist I met; and so, it seemed, I had to go.
Bright and early we awoke and climbed into the back of the tuk-tuk, enduring a bumpy ride down misty dirt roads that seemed to last forever. Just when I thought we were being taken for a figurative ride rather than a literal one, we pulled into the Kuang Si parking lot already filling with other tuk-tuk drivers lolling about, smoking and joking together; and we got off.
A short walk down a jungle path, then a small entrance fee paid; and then... stunning. Magical. Fairy-tale. Almost unbelievable in it's beauty. Even after seeing a number of waterfalls in Australia, New Zealand and Thailand, Kuang Si Waterfall took my breath away. A long cascade of cloudy turquoise plunged over limestone cliffs into a pool several hundred meters below. This pool emptied further down into another pool of pristine turquoise, and another, and another, and so on. It looked like a scene from FernGully: The Last Rainforest; and I half expected to see fairies flitting playfully about my head. Instead there were butterflies.
Deciding that the thing to do would be to work up a sweat before jumping into those enticing pools, we began to climb up a path that wound its way along the right side of Kuang Si Falls. This was a slippery endeavour that had to be abandoned halfway up as we realized that coming down would be nothing short of treacherous were we to go any further. Even from that vantage point, it was clear to see that Kuang Si Waterfall looked deceptively smaller from the ground than it actually was, and that the river diving fearlessly over the edge of those jagged cliffs originated a long way up.
Climbing gingerly back down (and sliding at least part of the way), we worked our way towards the calmer pools away from the initial plunge. This was where children and adults, tourists and locals alike were escaping the midday heat with a swim. The gentle cascades from Kuang Si Waterfall formed lagoons that were perfect for a cooling dip, and the water felt soft and refreshing against our muddy, sweaty skin.
The brave in our group began to jump off the top of the small cliff, and again I felt that I was reliving a scene in a movie. After a lengthy period of lounging in the Kuang Si waters like the nymphs we felt ourselves to be, we towelled off and ate a quick snack before packing up our things. As we returned to the parking lot, I noticed a sign that read "Bear Rescue Centre," and a path leading into the forest. We followed the path and came across the aforementioned "Centre"—a series of cages housing bears that had been rescued from traffickers and poachers.
In much of Asia, wild Black Bears are captured, and their bile (considered a tonic) is extracted, leaving them in very poor condition. These bears, most of which can never return to the wild, were a sobering reminder of the rights that animals, and indeed many humans, still lack in much of the developing world. After a visit with these poor creatures, we climbed back into our tuk-tuk for the return trip to Luang Prabang. We left with a feeling that although there may be much suffering in this world, we were some of the fortunate few lucky enough to have had a taste of paradise at Kuang Si.
When to Go to Kuang Si
The best time to visit the Kuang Si Falls is outside the rainy season which runs from April to September. Getting to the Kuang Si Waterfall is simple enough from Luang Prabang, and tuk-tuk drivers will be only too happy to relieve you of your money in order to take you there. A return trip should cost around US$6/person, but cheaper prices can be negotiated, particularly if you have a larger group. A good idea is to do what I did, and find other tourists who are willing to split the tuk-tuk with you. For something a little more comfortable, there are buses leaving twice daily at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Tickets can be purchased at just about any guest house or travel desk in town.
At roughly 30 km from Luang Prabang, Kuang Si Waterfall is also reachable by bike, although the roads are a bit rough and the sun often hot. Think carefully before embarking by bike; but by all means do so if you're the adventurous type.
At roughly 30 km from Luang Prabang, Kuang Si Waterfall is also reachable by bike, although the roads are a bit rough and the sun often hot. Think carefully before embarking by bike; but by all means do so if you're the adventurous type.
Odds n' Ends
Luang Prabang is a fabulous and extremely tourist-friendly city in the middle of Laos: the hidden jewel of Southeast-Asia. It sits at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and boasts beautiful French-colonial architecture and a welcoming population. The cafe and restaurant scene is top-notch, and shopping is delightful, especially in the popular night-market downtown. It's a good idea to come bearing cash, as there are only a handful of ATMs in town and they are not always well-stocked or working. Internet cafes are plentiful, as is accommodation, and many wonderful day trips can be booked from the city (whether to visit local waterfalls, see tribal villages or enjoy kayaking on the rather placid Nam Khan River). In spite of the seeming affluence of the town, however, Laos is still a very poor country, and generosity and humility are always recommended.
Places to Stay Nearby
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A business-Class Hotel with all amenities is Manoluck hotel, the hotel combines modern international luxury with traditional Lao styles to form a comfortable atmosphere for ... 12 miles away
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Media References
- Gazing at the Kuang Si Waterfalls, Laos - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- I went to Cambodia and up through Laos, up the Mekong and then across to Thailand, and back to my old wat where I was a Buddhist monk in Thailand in the 70s.
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Lao 
,
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,
Vietnamese
are some of the languages spoken in Lao People's Democratic Republic. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!
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