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Kom Ombo: The Crocodile Temple

Published by Jodi Garner, Writer

Country: Egypt

The Experience

While cruising along the Nile RIver past the Egyptian city of Aswan, your eyes are quickly drawn to the Temple of Kom Ombo: a beautiful Egyptian temple located on the river’s edge, just 50 km from Aswan. Whether arriving by tour bus or by felucca, a traditional Egyptian sailboat, visitors are in for a treat as they climb the magnificent stone steps and enter the inner sanctuary of Kom Ombo Temple—the temple of Haroeris and Sobek.

Ancient crocodiles once covered the shores surrounding Kom Ombo, and Sobek is the crocodile god honoured by the Temple of Kom Ombo (also known as the Temple of Kom Omb). Sobek is depicted in various hieroglyphs throughout the temple, with the body of a man and the head of a crocodile. Haroeris, the “Good Doctor,” also covers the walls, and is represented by the head of a falcon. The Temple of Kom Ombo’s bisymmetry is what makes it truly unique: twin entrances, and nominally divided sanctuaries and halls. The left side of the temple is dedicated to Haroeris, while the right is dedicated to Sobek.

The Temple of Kom Ombo is a large roofless structure made up of an outer corridor surrounding an inner corridor, which in turn encases the Hypostyle Hall and the inner sanctuaries. Traditionally adorned with 31 large columns, only 13 remain in various stages of deterioration today. At the entrance of Kom Ombo Temple, many of the larger columns have remained intact, adorned with various pictures of serpents, birds, fruits and surgical tools. Larger than life depictions of Sobek and Haroeris, in addition to other gods such as Horus, are also seen covering the columns and the corridor walls.

The Temple of Kom Ombo's proximity to the Nile has been both a blessing and a curse. The moisture from the surrounding waters has allowed for the exceptional preservation of some beautiful, coloured works. To truly appreciate, you must look up while entering the temple as brilliant blues and reds cover images of large falcons on the underside of several stones, protected from the sand. Most of the images seen in this temple were carved into the stone and painted, as with many temples throughout Egypt. However, the Temple of Kom Ombo is one of the few remaining temples to have such bright and plentiful colours.

Being situated on the once caravan route into the heart of Egypt and the gold mines of the Eastern Desert, Kom Ombo had often been a resting stop for conquering armies. As you walk through Kom Ombo, you are reminded that The Temple of Kom Ombo has stood and watched centuries of history be written. This history is reflected in every inch of the temple, from the large pillars that are capped with Roman-era floral bursts, to the records tablet that recorded offerings to Haroeris. It is even rumoured that the floors of the outer corridor once held small carving from individuals waiting to see the “Good Doctor”.   

With the overwhelming number of images covering the walls of Kom Ombo Temple, each one tells a story, whether one inch or meters in size. Visitors could spend all day running their fingers along the continuous pictures feeling their way through history. Kom Ombo Temple is truly is a temple of the gods.

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When to Go to Kom Ombo

While Kom Ombo is open year-round, visitors may find the off-tourist season the best time to see The Kom Ombo Temple. Lines to get into the temple in high tourist season (July to December) can be as long as two hours in length. With little to no cover while waiting in line, the hot desert sun can become almost unbearable. Visitors travelling any time of year should think about getting to the temple early in the day to avoid the lines and the hot afternoon sun. Remember that Kom Ombo Temple is not a large temple, so to truly enjoy it, visit in small groups only. 

There is not much else to see in Kom Ombo besides the temple itself, so a daytrip is often enough time. There are several tour operators and packaged trips in Aswan that offer full-day and half-day trips to Kom Ombo. However, you can also hire a taxi for about $30 dollars to drive you from Aswan to the temple in about 45 minutes. Oftentimes, the driver will wait for you to visit the temple, and then drive you back to the city.

Odds n' Ends

Kom Ombo is now home to many Nubian people, originally descended from Sudan and southern Egypt. They were known for their bow skills, and the Egyptians once referred to the former Nubian kingdom as “The Land of the Bow”. Over time, much of the Temple of Kom Ombo has been destroyed by earthquakes and the Nile River. Parts of the temple were dismantled for stones on other building projects, and the Copts (native Egyptian Christians) one used the temple as a church, and reportedly defaced sections of it.

Three hundred crocodile mummies are displayed inside the temple.

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