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Kayak Orcas Island for a Killer Experience
Published by Erik Shonstrom, Writer
Country: United States 
The Experience
The San Juan Islands are a geological anomaly comprised of chunks of micro-continents, terranes that floated around the eastern Pacific 200 million years ago. As the Mid-Atlantic ridge enlarged, it pushed what is now the continent of North America westwards, where eventually there was a collision between these small terranes and the large Atlantic oceanic plate. The collision created the mighty Cascade Range, where volcanoes still smolder.
As a result the San Juan Islands, which dot Puget Sound, are comprised of a weird and chaotic mix of limestone, mudstone chert, and scraps of oceanic crust. This geologic underpinning defines the characteristics of the islands; quirky, different, unique, and completely unlike the mainland. If the few inhabitants of the islands I got to know are at all representational of the overall demographics, the same could be said for the island’s populace.
Orcas Island, a prided treasure of the 172-island chain in San Juan County, is famous for its rugged mountains and lush colourful shoreline. Fringed by the waters of the North Pacific, Orcas Island is a friendly playground for pods of killer whales or orcas, who wend their way here after feeding on fat salmon off the Haro Straight. Sea kayakers delight in this fortuitous pleasure, venturing out to glide among them.
Getting to Orcas Island is truly half the fun. Out of Anacortes, Washington, riding the ferry out to Orcas Island is a revelation in and of itself. To escape from cars and planes, and be slowed down to a boat’s chugging rhythm; to have nothing to do but stand at the bow and stare at the water; it is a welcome diversion, offering a refreshing leisurely pace. A curious stop along the way is Lopez Island, which is run by Franciscan Nuns, who come down to dock the ferry dressed in their traditional brown habits.
The water of Puget Sound is cold, even in summer, but the area is surprisingly bright and sunny. The Cascade Range to the east, and Olympic Range to the west catch most of the weather, so the Sound itself remains bright and pleasant more often than not. Here the killer whales breach and bound mere feet away from lucky kayakers. Orcas commonly found in the area have become famous. Some even have names, like Ruffles, the orca whose oversized dorsal fin has a wavy look that provided the name.
Paddling out early in the morning, the cold water looked dark and rather forbidding as it slid past the kayak. My double bladed paddle made little noise as I churned out for open water. In the distance wriggling lumps on some exposed rocks could be seen, and as I paddled closer, I could see seals sunning themselves.
Distances on maps are very different from distances that you have to muscle through. Despite having hoped to cover a lot of open water, the currents and wind paid no heed to my plans. It quickly became evident that my hunt for orcas would need to be contained to the area along the shoreline. As the morning sun matured into early afternoon sun, I had yet to encounter any whales. Despite this, the tranquil surroundings were a welcome solace. As bald eagles soared above the trees in the distance, I was a humble observer of wild encounters of another kind, including a deer swimming from one island to another.
Along my way back, after paddling for most of the morning, I finally spotted killer whales. Frankly, I’d expected a sort-of Free Willy-esque type moment; an orca breaching playfully over the bow of my kayak as crystal clear droplets of water arced over my head, glinting with rainbows in the sun. Unfortunately this was not the case. Squinting my eyes, in the distance, I could see the faintest shimmer of a spout every now and then, and glossy dorsal fins cutting the water. I may not have gotten up close and personal with the cetaceans, but as the Buddhists say: path is goal; goal is path. Just being on the water in the San Juan’s is an experience to remember. It is an escapist’s fantasy; isolated, green, cool, and remote. Sea kayaking around Orcas Island is adventure not to be missed.
As a result the San Juan Islands, which dot Puget Sound, are comprised of a weird and chaotic mix of limestone, mudstone chert, and scraps of oceanic crust. This geologic underpinning defines the characteristics of the islands; quirky, different, unique, and completely unlike the mainland. If the few inhabitants of the islands I got to know are at all representational of the overall demographics, the same could be said for the island’s populace.
Orcas Island, a prided treasure of the 172-island chain in San Juan County, is famous for its rugged mountains and lush colourful shoreline. Fringed by the waters of the North Pacific, Orcas Island is a friendly playground for pods of killer whales or orcas, who wend their way here after feeding on fat salmon off the Haro Straight. Sea kayakers delight in this fortuitous pleasure, venturing out to glide among them.
Getting to Orcas Island is truly half the fun. Out of Anacortes, Washington, riding the ferry out to Orcas Island is a revelation in and of itself. To escape from cars and planes, and be slowed down to a boat’s chugging rhythm; to have nothing to do but stand at the bow and stare at the water; it is a welcome diversion, offering a refreshing leisurely pace. A curious stop along the way is Lopez Island, which is run by Franciscan Nuns, who come down to dock the ferry dressed in their traditional brown habits.
The water of Puget Sound is cold, even in summer, but the area is surprisingly bright and sunny. The Cascade Range to the east, and Olympic Range to the west catch most of the weather, so the Sound itself remains bright and pleasant more often than not. Here the killer whales breach and bound mere feet away from lucky kayakers. Orcas commonly found in the area have become famous. Some even have names, like Ruffles, the orca whose oversized dorsal fin has a wavy look that provided the name.
Paddling out early in the morning, the cold water looked dark and rather forbidding as it slid past the kayak. My double bladed paddle made little noise as I churned out for open water. In the distance wriggling lumps on some exposed rocks could be seen, and as I paddled closer, I could see seals sunning themselves.
Distances on maps are very different from distances that you have to muscle through. Despite having hoped to cover a lot of open water, the currents and wind paid no heed to my plans. It quickly became evident that my hunt for orcas would need to be contained to the area along the shoreline. As the morning sun matured into early afternoon sun, I had yet to encounter any whales. Despite this, the tranquil surroundings were a welcome solace. As bald eagles soared above the trees in the distance, I was a humble observer of wild encounters of another kind, including a deer swimming from one island to another.
Along my way back, after paddling for most of the morning, I finally spotted killer whales. Frankly, I’d expected a sort-of Free Willy-esque type moment; an orca breaching playfully over the bow of my kayak as crystal clear droplets of water arced over my head, glinting with rainbows in the sun. Unfortunately this was not the case. Squinting my eyes, in the distance, I could see the faintest shimmer of a spout every now and then, and glossy dorsal fins cutting the water. I may not have gotten up close and personal with the cetaceans, but as the Buddhists say: path is goal; goal is path. Just being on the water in the San Juan’s is an experience to remember. It is an escapist’s fantasy; isolated, green, cool, and remote. Sea kayaking around Orcas Island is adventure not to be missed.
When to Go to Killer Whale San Juan
The San Juan Islands are great to visit due to their relative proximity to a major city; Seattle; and the fact that there's really no place quite like them. Summer is the best time to visit Orcas Island, though winter gives the place a certain emptiness and starkness that is the definition of solitude at it's finest. You can enjoy seeing seals, bald eagles, and possibly orcas if you plan right. The real action is out on the water, whether it's by kayak or whale watching boat, on the water is the best way to go. There’s no better way to see wildlife then close up, and the intimacy of gliding along just inches above the water offers a view that can’t be obtained any other way.
Odds n' Ends
A popular pass time while traversing the open waters is to indulge in Ivar's Clam Chowder. If you’re out and about in the San Juan’s, it's highly recommended. Add as much Tabasco as you can handle, and a better meal you’d be hard pressed to find. There is no doubt that Ivar's Clam Chowder is a must.
Climb Mount Consitution, on Orcas Island, and visit Moran State park. At Moran, there are cliffs and trees that hang out over the water that make excellent jumping spots for swimming. When you walk along the rocky beaches, look for the snubby ends of quahogs, huge clams that squirt water when you step near them.
Climb Mount Consitution, on Orcas Island, and visit Moran State park. At Moran, there are cliffs and trees that hang out over the water that make excellent jumping spots for swimming. When you walk along the rocky beaches, look for the snubby ends of quahogs, huge clams that squirt water when you step near them.
Want a Guide?
- Kayak Tours
- Kayak with Orcas...and actually see them.
Places to Eat
- Ivar's
- Best. Clam. Chowder. Ever.
- Portofino Pizza
- Great Pizza, great town!
Recommended Places to Stay
- Camping in Moran State Park
- Great Camping, with access to hiking and swimming!
- Once in a Blue Moon Farm
- Great farm that allows guests!
- Orcas Hotel
- Great Old Hotel right at the ferry.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
Search over 900,000 global hotel deals from over 30 merchants. Book via Expedia, Travelocity, Hotels.com, Booking.com, Priceline and the websites of popular hotel chains.
Surrounded by three fresh spring water lakes, on 82 acres, Lakedale Resort at Three Lakes is an ideal Pacific Northwest getaway. Lakedale offers various accommodation ... 2 miles away
Hillside House is a beautiful spacious contemporary home, built among an acre of fir trees. Here relaxing comes naturally. Our water view overlooks the boats ... 2 miles away
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While You're There - Tours and Trips Nearby
San Juan Island is considered the best place to view orca whales because the salmon, which are their prime source of food (about 95% of ...2.73 miles away via Friday Harbor.
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Elsewhere on the Web
- San Juan Spots
- This site gives you the lowdown on spots to visit on San Juan Island.
- Visitor Info for San Juan Islands
- Travelers info for the whole island chain.
- Orcas Island
- Visitor info for Orcas Island.
Media References
- ON ORCAS ISLAND, LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- In the 1790's Capt. George Vancouver, the English explorer, had the devil of a time navigating the west coast of North America from what is now Seattle to the top of Vancouver Island
- Introduction to the Orcas Island - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- Orcas Island, the largest of the San Juans, is also the most beautiful of the islands. If you have time to visit only one island, make it this one.
- JOURNEYS; 36 Hours | San Juan Islands - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- YOU could spend years getting to know the more than 170 San Juan Islands of Washington, but it's easy to become acquainted with three of the biggest
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