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Climb the Great Wall's Last Outpost at the Jiayuguan Fort
Published by Megan Eaves, Writer
Country: China 
The Experience
Jiayuguan Fort in China's northwestern Gansu Province is one of the most exotic, faraway places you can visit in the world. Jiayuguan is a small town whose name means "excellent valley pass" and is home to the last outpost of the Great Wall of China.
Gansu Province is a land of vast desert, jutting snow-capped mountains, flaming hills, secret caves filled with Buddhist grottoes, camels, sand dunes, and the last mud remnants of the western end of the Great Wall. This culminates at Jiayuguan Fort, a huge trapezoid-shaped fort that once marked the final boundary of the Chinese empire. As legend has it, when a citizen was banished, they were required to exit through the Jiayuguan gate into the west, never to return.
Jiayuguan Fort is an immense structure. The walls, which are made of brown mud, rise menacingly out of the hard desert dirt, dwarfing most similar structures in eastern China. From the ramparts of Jiayuguan Fort, it’s possible to see south to the majestic Qilian Mountain. Even in the piercing heat of August, the mountain peak remains capped in snow. Local vendors set up stands here where you can try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow off the ramparts. At the far end of the Fort, a small group of nomads also offer camel rides.
A dusty museum close by provides loads of information about the Great Wall—far more than I'd ever found before or since. A highlight of the Great Wall Museum is a huge scale model of the Great Wall, which contrary to popular belief, is actually a series of walls that extend across northern China. They begin in Shanghaiguan at Qinghuangdao in the east, and end at Jiayuguan. The Jiayuguan Fort was constructed during the Ming Dynasty, as early as 1372, and it is considered to be the oldest intact military building from ancient China—a superlative not easily earned.
From the Jiayuguan Fort, shuttle over to the “Overhanging Great Wall,” a restored section of the Wall that connects the Fort with nearby Black Mountain. It is at the Overhanging Great Wall that you can actually climb the Wall in the traditional sense, getting an intense view of the surrounds from the steep steps of the Great Wall that lead up the mountainside.
Gansu Province is a land of vast desert, jutting snow-capped mountains, flaming hills, secret caves filled with Buddhist grottoes, camels, sand dunes, and the last mud remnants of the western end of the Great Wall. This culminates at Jiayuguan Fort, a huge trapezoid-shaped fort that once marked the final boundary of the Chinese empire. As legend has it, when a citizen was banished, they were required to exit through the Jiayuguan gate into the west, never to return.
Jiayuguan Fort is an immense structure. The walls, which are made of brown mud, rise menacingly out of the hard desert dirt, dwarfing most similar structures in eastern China. From the ramparts of Jiayuguan Fort, it’s possible to see south to the majestic Qilian Mountain. Even in the piercing heat of August, the mountain peak remains capped in snow. Local vendors set up stands here where you can try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow off the ramparts. At the far end of the Fort, a small group of nomads also offer camel rides.
A dusty museum close by provides loads of information about the Great Wall—far more than I'd ever found before or since. A highlight of the Great Wall Museum is a huge scale model of the Great Wall, which contrary to popular belief, is actually a series of walls that extend across northern China. They begin in Shanghaiguan at Qinghuangdao in the east, and end at Jiayuguan. The Jiayuguan Fort was constructed during the Ming Dynasty, as early as 1372, and it is considered to be the oldest intact military building from ancient China—a superlative not easily earned.
From the Jiayuguan Fort, shuttle over to the “Overhanging Great Wall,” a restored section of the Wall that connects the Fort with nearby Black Mountain. It is at the Overhanging Great Wall that you can actually climb the Wall in the traditional sense, getting an intense view of the surrounds from the steep steps of the Great Wall that lead up the mountainside.
When to Go to Jiayuguan Fort
The desert climate in Gansu Province can be harsh, but the best time to visit Jiayuguan Fort is during summer, as winter can be bitingly cold and snow and ice storms can often cripple the area. Since Jiayuguan is a fairly isolated destination, it is rarely crowded and could still be considered an off-the-beaten-path destination; which makes it all the better.
The Jiayuguan Fort and the Overhanging Wall make excellent alternatives to the more traditional visits to the Badaling, Mutianyu and Simatai sections of the Great Wall near Beijing; which these days are overcrowded with tourists. And the austere desert surroundings and striking skyline of peaks from the Qilian Mountains really give you the feeling of exoticism that you would hope for when visiting western China.
The Jiayuguan Fort and the Overhanging Wall make excellent alternatives to the more traditional visits to the Badaling, Mutianyu and Simatai sections of the Great Wall near Beijing; which these days are overcrowded with tourists. And the austere desert surroundings and striking skyline of peaks from the Qilian Mountains really give you the feeling of exoticism that you would hope for when visiting western China.
Odds n' Ends
The cost to visit the Jiayuguan Fort is ¥100 and includes admission to the Great Wall Museum and other nearby cultural relics. Any incidental activities cost extra, such as archery and camel rides. Entrance to the Overhanging Great Wall site is ¥30.
Travel to and from the sites is relatively easy by taxi. You can hail a taxi anywhere on the street in the town of Jiayuguan and ask to be taken to your destination (or show the driver the Chinese characters). Be sure to include every destination you want to visit while bargaining. A whole day should not cost more than ¥200. Alternately, take bus no.1 to Gongren Wenhua Gong (Worker's Palace) and walk to the Jiayuguan Fort, which is a few minutes away on foot.
Summers in northwestern China can be intense. The high temperatures combined with the dry climate can cause a number of issues, like dehydration, sunburn and heat exhaustion. Be sure to carry plenty of purified bottled water with you and wear loose, breathable clothing and sunscreen. Visitors with a fear of heights should take note that the Overhanging Wall is very steep at times and can be a bit intimidating to climb, so take care.
Travel to and from the sites is relatively easy by taxi. You can hail a taxi anywhere on the street in the town of Jiayuguan and ask to be taken to your destination (or show the driver the Chinese characters). Be sure to include every destination you want to visit while bargaining. A whole day should not cost more than ¥200. Alternately, take bus no.1 to Gongren Wenhua Gong (Worker's Palace) and walk to the Jiayuguan Fort, which is a few minutes away on foot.
Summers in northwestern China can be intense. The high temperatures combined with the dry climate can cause a number of issues, like dehydration, sunburn and heat exhaustion. Be sure to carry plenty of purified bottled water with you and wear loose, breathable clothing and sunscreen. Visitors with a fear of heights should take note that the Overhanging Wall is very steep at times and can be a bit intimidating to climb, so take care.
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