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Trek Back in Time to a Hmong Village in Lao
Published by Deanna Pagnan, Writer
Country: Lao People's Democratic Republic ![]()
The Experience
Setting out bright and early from Luang Prabang, we drove into the hills, towards Ban Long Lao, home of Lao’s villagers. The early morning air was dewy and fresh, with a hint of smoke from fires burning in nearby villages. Upon reaching the base of the mountain, vehicles were abandoned and the hiking began. Trekking through the abundant forest, the towering canopy of leaves are pierced by sunlight casting a kaleidoscope of colours and shapes down to the earth. The dense trees recede as we reach the Hmong village, giving way to groups of small, makeshift homes, animal pens and fields of crops tended to by the villagers.
The Hmong people are very spiritual, and they traditionally worship many gods found in nature. Despite efforts that converted many Hmong to Christianity, villagers here in Ban Long Lao still subscribe to their traditional form of worship. The village also retains a shaman, who the Hmong believe possesses healing powers and can communicate with the spiritual world. Rather than relying on more modern forms of healing, such as medicines that could be found in Luang Prabang, the Hmong people prefer to visit their shaman to cure illnesses.
If you are lucky, you will be invited to enter a home of a Hmong family, and see how they live. Their dwellings consist of one large room, with a kitchen, sleeping quarters and a common area. Surprisingly, twelve people share this room, and very few have the luxury of a bed, leaving the rest to sleep on the dirt floor.
Traditionally, the Hmong people practice slash-and-burn agriculture, which explains the smoky smell you encounter when trekking. Unfortunately, this method of farming has resulted in some deforestation in the area, but the Hmong villagers are slowly changing their agricultural practices to ones that are more sustainable. While the Hmong used to grow fields of opium, the villagers here now tend to crops of rubber tree and corn.
Trekking onwards and upwards, we reached the top of the mountain and began our descent down to the sounds of the Kuang Si Waterfall. Many of the tours offered to the Hmong village in Ban Long Lao include a stop at Kuang Si Waterfall. After several hours of hiking, the sight of Kuang Si's cool cascades surrounded by colourful flowers was enthusiastically welcomed.
This glimpse into Hmong life affords rare perspective and insight into the lives of the rural Lao, and the unfounded connection of happiness to wealth. This is a much-needed reminder for some, as to how different life is lived around the world.
When to Go to Hmong Lao
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- Introduction to Laos - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
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Lao
,
Mandarin
,
Vietnamese
are some of the languages spoken in Lao People's Democratic Republic. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!
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