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Forgetting Civilization in the Fouta Djalon
Published by Emmanuelle Fontaine, Writer
Country: Guinea 
The Experience
Leaving Dalaba and Labé in our tracks, we drove the dusty road to Doucki, our final destination of a three-day retreat into the heart of Fouta Djalon. While East Africa draws tourists looking for wild animals, it is said that West Africa is celebrated for its people, and the Fouta are no exception with a vibrant and natural culture. We were on our way to leaving the world behind us and immersing ourselves in some of life's simple pleasures. The Fouta Djalon is a mountain range covering about one third of Guinea, an ancient French colony in West Africa. These highlands are sometimes called the “watershed” of West Africa, as several major rivers spring up there, like the Niger, the Senegal and the Gambia. We were going to shed our conventions and routine!
The journey to Doucki village is stunning, with vast mountains mirrored by massive sandstone gorges over 80 meters deep. Thousands of years of erosion have sculpted these breathtaking cliffs filled with life by pulsing rivers that cut through the plateaus with ease. Upon our arrival in the small village of Doucki we found our lodging for the next few days, a traditional Fula hut owned by a lovely local couple with bunk beds, straw mattresses and lots of creepy crawlies! Our accommodations were modest at most. The shower a few steps away from our hut, was a shoulder-high screen with a cup and bucket of cold water that a village man would fill at our request. The only thing that seemed to be missing was the curtain. The lack of clutter was apparent and presented a simpler outlook that we learned to adopt during our time in the Fouta Djalon.
We spent our time in Doucki exploring the surrounding gorge and cliff areas, crisscrossing rivers deep enough for diving or taking a in bath, a welcomed treat in the afternoon sun. Returning in the evenings we would gather around a large shared tin plate placed in the middle of a table in one of the huts, and would devour the most wonderful meals, typically chicken with rice or fonio and vegetables.
On our second day we got up early to start a 9-hour hike down through Doucki’s Grand Canyon, on a steep trail along a fall. The outlook on the lowlands is unimpeded: a few open fields, but mostly forests and the occasional isolated rock piercing through the trees. We stopped to enjoy lunch by the Kokoulo River, where shy, yet curious kids stared at us from behind banana trees. We tried to keep quiet in the hope of catching a glimpse of a green monkey, but without any luck. Sadly, local hunters have depleted the Fouta Djalon of most of its fauna. We trailed on following the foot of the cliff until we reached a series of nine ladders made of bamboo sticks tied together and placed inside a crack in the rock. Climbing the ladders back to Doucki was quite an experience; some ladders were over ten meters high and very slippery from water running along the rock face. It can become quite arduous to get a firm hold on the wet bamboo after an exhaustive hike. Following our final ascent, a light cooling rain thankfully met us.
On the final expedition during our time in Fouta Djalon, we ventured to an area splayed with impressive rock structures, endearingly called the Indiana Jones Forest. Groping through the jungle, weaving through rock crevices and trailing down narrow passages, this was off-road trekking at its best. Under the dim light, a sunbeam poured through a small crack over a wall above us, changing our tunnel-like surroundings into a primitive cathedral painted in different shades of green and adorned with garlands of leaves. There was no better way to end our trip to the Fouta Djalon, withdrawn from civilization and engrossed in an unknown world.
The journey to Doucki village is stunning, with vast mountains mirrored by massive sandstone gorges over 80 meters deep. Thousands of years of erosion have sculpted these breathtaking cliffs filled with life by pulsing rivers that cut through the plateaus with ease. Upon our arrival in the small village of Doucki we found our lodging for the next few days, a traditional Fula hut owned by a lovely local couple with bunk beds, straw mattresses and lots of creepy crawlies! Our accommodations were modest at most. The shower a few steps away from our hut, was a shoulder-high screen with a cup and bucket of cold water that a village man would fill at our request. The only thing that seemed to be missing was the curtain. The lack of clutter was apparent and presented a simpler outlook that we learned to adopt during our time in the Fouta Djalon.
We spent our time in Doucki exploring the surrounding gorge and cliff areas, crisscrossing rivers deep enough for diving or taking a in bath, a welcomed treat in the afternoon sun. Returning in the evenings we would gather around a large shared tin plate placed in the middle of a table in one of the huts, and would devour the most wonderful meals, typically chicken with rice or fonio and vegetables.
On our second day we got up early to start a 9-hour hike down through Doucki’s Grand Canyon, on a steep trail along a fall. The outlook on the lowlands is unimpeded: a few open fields, but mostly forests and the occasional isolated rock piercing through the trees. We stopped to enjoy lunch by the Kokoulo River, where shy, yet curious kids stared at us from behind banana trees. We tried to keep quiet in the hope of catching a glimpse of a green monkey, but without any luck. Sadly, local hunters have depleted the Fouta Djalon of most of its fauna. We trailed on following the foot of the cliff until we reached a series of nine ladders made of bamboo sticks tied together and placed inside a crack in the rock. Climbing the ladders back to Doucki was quite an experience; some ladders were over ten meters high and very slippery from water running along the rock face. It can become quite arduous to get a firm hold on the wet bamboo after an exhaustive hike. Following our final ascent, a light cooling rain thankfully met us.
On the final expedition during our time in Fouta Djalon, we ventured to an area splayed with impressive rock structures, endearingly called the Indiana Jones Forest. Groping through the jungle, weaving through rock crevices and trailing down narrow passages, this was off-road trekking at its best. Under the dim light, a sunbeam poured through a small crack over a wall above us, changing our tunnel-like surroundings into a primitive cathedral painted in different shades of green and adorned with garlands of leaves. There was no better way to end our trip to the Fouta Djalon, withdrawn from civilization and engrossed in an unknown world.
When to Go to Fouta Djalon
The Fouta Djalon is one of the last untouched gems on the planet as tourism is relatively undeveloped in Guinea. The down side to this is that almost nobody speaks French or English, the maps are not very detailed and the road signs almost nonexistent. The best way to get around is to hire a driver or guide in Dalaba, Labé or even Conakry, who knows the area and speaks Pular, the native language of the Fouta people.
The best time to visit Fouta Djalon is in November or December, just at the end of the rainy season, when the water level of the rivers is still high. During the dry season, January to April is also a safe bet. The wet season can pose problems as it rains heavily everyday and the dirt roads are sometimes impracticable.
The best time to visit Fouta Djalon is in November or December, just at the end of the rainy season, when the water level of the rivers is still high. During the dry season, January to April is also a safe bet. The wet season can pose problems as it rains heavily everyday and the dirt roads are sometimes impracticable.
Odds n' Ends
Keep in mind that Guinea is a third world country and that many villages in the Fouta Djalon are very isolated and have no hospital, doctors or pharmacy. There are no modern comforts, and often no electricity or telephone. This trip is for adventurers and nature lovers.
Make sure you bring a first aid kit, bottled water, power bars, sleeping bag and warm clothes, as the evenings can be cool. Don’t forget to get your yellow fever vaccination before you enter the country or you may not be allowed to leave the airport in Conakry
Make sure you bring a first aid kit, bottled water, power bars, sleeping bag and warm clothes, as the evenings can be cool. Don’t forget to get your yellow fever vaccination before you enter the country or you may not be allowed to leave the airport in Conakry
More Experiences Nearby
- Catch a Bird's Eye View of the Rainforest in Kakum National Park
- My heart pounds as I look over the landscape. Taking the first step is key to one of the greatest experiences I'll have in Ghana, if I can just get over the height. One deep breathe in and I'm going for it. Stepping onto the first bridge feels like freedom in the sky. It's a shaky freedom for me but freedom nonetheless. Exploring Kakum National Park in central Ghana provides an exhilarating close look at African nature. At 40 meters high in some areas, taking a canopy tour over the Kakum rainforest feels like a walk in the clouds. North ...877 miles away.
Books and DVDs
- Lonely planet West Africa
- Guinea’s landscape is spectacular. The country has some of the world’s few remaining tropical dry forests, and the rainforests that remain in the south are lush and verdant and full of wildlife. The waterfall-rich Fouta Djalon Plateau in the west has breathtaking scenery and some of the best hiking in West Africa.
- The Travel Book: A Journey Through Every Country in the World
- Make the Most of Your Time on Earth Rough Guide Reference
Elsewhere on the Web
- Fouta Djallon, république de Guinée, Afrique de l’ouest (in French)
- Ce site vous servira de portail sur l'histoire; la géographie et la culture de la région montagneuse du Fouta Djallon de la Guinée. Vous y trouverez aussi les actualités et les opportunités touristiques et économiques sur le Fouta Djallon.
Media References
- Close to the Wild in Senegal - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- HEADING east into Africa's interior, away from the beach resorts on Senegal's Atlantic coastline, the villages become fewer and farther apart and the potholes ever wider, until at times there is more pothole than paved road.
Travel Insurance. Simple & Flexible.
Language Guides
French 
is one of the languages spoken in Guinea. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!
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