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The Festival of Saint Isidro in Madrid
Published by Jeff McCreight, Writer
Country: Spain 
The Experience
Should you find yourself in Madrid around the middle of May each year, you might notice that a healthy portion of the populace is traditionally dressed with red carnations stuck in their vest buttonholes or pinned to their hoop skirts. This is for the Festival of Saint Isidro, the Patron Saint of Madrid, Spain, and of La Ceiba in Honduras.
Should you follow a mass of these folks, who will occasionally cluster together to sing choral arrangements, you will undoubtedly find yourself (eventually) at some street party or another where thousands of Madrid’s inhabitants have come to talk and drink long into the evening.
To the residents of Madrid, this late spring Festival of Saint Isidro marks the beginning of the long hot summer, and more importantly, the bull fighting season. The costumes are used to conjure a sense of traditional Spanish life. The holiday is attended with a sense of cultural pride and celebration of Spanish life. Therefore, traditional Spanish food, music and stories all have a place at the table.
The focus of the festival is Saint Isidro, a Madrid native. Born here around 1070, he was renowned for his piety and kindness, and several minor miracles are attributed to him. Apparently, he opened a spring in the earth one day to quench his master's thirst. He was a curer, and even brought his master's daughter back to life. He is also said to have employed the help of angels to increase his productivity at the plow.
In accordance with tradition, on May 15th every year, carved images of Saint Isidro and his wife are removed from the Colegiata, where he lived beside Plaza Mayor, and carried through the streets. Later, whole families of costumed Madrileños, called Chulapos, gather in the plaza for singing and dancing. This is a relatively small part of the festival, however. Despite religious trappings, the holiday nowadays centers on civic and family pride rather than the church.
The modern-day festivities occur in the part old Madrid that Isidro would have known well. If for no other reason, the festival is a good opportunity to exercise your imagination by seeing thousands of people in period dress against the medieval architecture.
Throughout the week of the Festival of Saint Isidro, you'll find rock concerts installed around the city as well as various cultural events. The bedrock, however, is the scene every evening in the Latina district, where people gather to party all night long. Streets are lined with bars and kiosks where masses of people congregate to talk and to drink beer, sangria, kalimoxos (red wine and coke), and cocktails. Things to do, per se, are minimal; the entertainment is the rest of the people. It's best if you don't get too hung up on seeing this or doing that, better to do what the Spanish do and go with the flow.
One of the great attributes of the Spanish people is their ability to have so much fun just being together. Like all festivals in Madrid, the emphasis here is on socializing more than anything else. The vibe is relaxed and jovial. If you find a spot where young and old Spaniards alike are joking and laughing, kids dressed up like Oliver Twist are running around under the tables, and the hot Spanish evening is drifting pleasantly by—stop for a drink and a chat: you've found the party.
Should you follow a mass of these folks, who will occasionally cluster together to sing choral arrangements, you will undoubtedly find yourself (eventually) at some street party or another where thousands of Madrid’s inhabitants have come to talk and drink long into the evening.
To the residents of Madrid, this late spring Festival of Saint Isidro marks the beginning of the long hot summer, and more importantly, the bull fighting season. The costumes are used to conjure a sense of traditional Spanish life. The holiday is attended with a sense of cultural pride and celebration of Spanish life. Therefore, traditional Spanish food, music and stories all have a place at the table.
The focus of the festival is Saint Isidro, a Madrid native. Born here around 1070, he was renowned for his piety and kindness, and several minor miracles are attributed to him. Apparently, he opened a spring in the earth one day to quench his master's thirst. He was a curer, and even brought his master's daughter back to life. He is also said to have employed the help of angels to increase his productivity at the plow.
In accordance with tradition, on May 15th every year, carved images of Saint Isidro and his wife are removed from the Colegiata, where he lived beside Plaza Mayor, and carried through the streets. Later, whole families of costumed Madrileños, called Chulapos, gather in the plaza for singing and dancing. This is a relatively small part of the festival, however. Despite religious trappings, the holiday nowadays centers on civic and family pride rather than the church.
The modern-day festivities occur in the part old Madrid that Isidro would have known well. If for no other reason, the festival is a good opportunity to exercise your imagination by seeing thousands of people in period dress against the medieval architecture.
Throughout the week of the Festival of Saint Isidro, you'll find rock concerts installed around the city as well as various cultural events. The bedrock, however, is the scene every evening in the Latina district, where people gather to party all night long. Streets are lined with bars and kiosks where masses of people congregate to talk and to drink beer, sangria, kalimoxos (red wine and coke), and cocktails. Things to do, per se, are minimal; the entertainment is the rest of the people. It's best if you don't get too hung up on seeing this or doing that, better to do what the Spanish do and go with the flow.
One of the great attributes of the Spanish people is their ability to have so much fun just being together. Like all festivals in Madrid, the emphasis here is on socializing more than anything else. The vibe is relaxed and jovial. If you find a spot where young and old Spaniards alike are joking and laughing, kids dressed up like Oliver Twist are running around under the tables, and the hot Spanish evening is drifting pleasantly by—stop for a drink and a chat: you've found the party.
When to Go to Festival Isidro Madrid
The Festival of Saint Isidro happens in Madrid every year in May. It starts on the Friday before May 15th and ends on the following Sunday. There are lots of English websites that can direct you to events planned for the year when you'll be attending.
Odds n' Ends
Be sure not to miss the festival's annual sendoff: the cooking of an enormous Cocido Madrileño, the signature Madrid dish. Made with chick peas and Chorizo in an enormous skillet, the event is both entertaining and delicious. And of course, it gives you one more chance to drink and socialize the afternoon away with the people.
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