The Headline-Grabbing Power of Iceland's Erupting Eyjafjallajökull Volcano
Published by Tammy Burns, Writer
Country: Iceland ![]()
The Experience
The first thing you notice when standing in front of Iceland’s Eyjafjallajökull volcano, is the sound. It lets out a steady low rumble like thunder rolling, and every now and then, releases a loud roar that sends shock waves bouncing up through the smoke above it. Standing there, listening to its groans and watching the smoke pour into the sky, it’s a constant reminder of just how small you are when compared to the power that lies beneath the earth.
Despite its name, the land in Iceland is hot. The country has over 200 active volcanoes, fields of still-smoking lava, and endless hot springs. There’s so much geothermal power that the entire country can rely on all-natural heating systems, and instead of having to heat their water after it comes out of the ground, they have to cool it down. There are eruptions every five years or so, and the ground regularly trembles with earthquakes.
Amid all the volcanic activity in Iceland, it’s the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that’s gained the most attention. It made headlines in mid-April 2010, when it released an ash cloud that soared over most of Europe and caused travel chaos around the world. The volcano is in an unusual position directly underneath a glacier, and the excessive ash was the result of hot magma from the eruption reacting with glacial water and exploding.
At first, the area was closed to the public. Toxic ash raining down from the Eyjafjallajökul volcano and flash floods from the melting glacier meant it was unsafe for people to travel within the region. The area began to re-open two weeks after the eruption. While there’s still the risk of floods (and emergency services workers are stationed at the base of the volcano in case of that), it’s generally safe for the public to visit.
To take a tour of Eyjafjallajökul, you have to travel with 4x4 from the town of Hvosvöller into the Þorsmork valley on the north side of the glacier. It’s a short ride from town, but one that will rattle your entire body as you drive through rivers and along a bumpy dirt road. Once there, you stand and you wait, and you watch. It’s never the same sight twice. Sometimes the crater glows red beneath the smoke, sometimes lava shoots into the sky, and sometimes ominous puffs of black smoke pour out and block any view of the fire within. The entire time, you will continue to hear that low, steady growl coming from deep inside the mountain.
Despite its name, the land in Iceland is hot. The country has over 200 active volcanoes, fields of still-smoking lava, and endless hot springs. There’s so much geothermal power that the entire country can rely on all-natural heating systems, and instead of having to heat their water after it comes out of the ground, they have to cool it down. There are eruptions every five years or so, and the ground regularly trembles with earthquakes.
Amid all the volcanic activity in Iceland, it’s the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that’s gained the most attention. It made headlines in mid-April 2010, when it released an ash cloud that soared over most of Europe and caused travel chaos around the world. The volcano is in an unusual position directly underneath a glacier, and the excessive ash was the result of hot magma from the eruption reacting with glacial water and exploding.
At first, the area was closed to the public. Toxic ash raining down from the Eyjafjallajökul volcano and flash floods from the melting glacier meant it was unsafe for people to travel within the region. The area began to re-open two weeks after the eruption. While there’s still the risk of floods (and emergency services workers are stationed at the base of the volcano in case of that), it’s generally safe for the public to visit.
To take a tour of Eyjafjallajökul, you have to travel with 4x4 from the town of Hvosvöller into the Þorsmork valley on the north side of the glacier. It’s a short ride from town, but one that will rattle your entire body as you drive through rivers and along a bumpy dirt road. Once there, you stand and you wait, and you watch. It’s never the same sight twice. Sometimes the crater glows red beneath the smoke, sometimes lava shoots into the sky, and sometimes ominous puffs of black smoke pour out and block any view of the fire within. The entire time, you will continue to hear that low, steady growl coming from deep inside the mountain.
When to Go to Eyjafjallajokull Volcano
The best time to visit Eyjafjallajökull volcano is now. While scientists have said the eruption could continue for several months or years (the last eruption from this volcano went on for two years), it could also stop or slow down at any time. No one knows for certain, but if you’re interested in seeing it, now is the time to book an Eyjafjallajökul volcano tour.
During the day, you can see the smoke, but in order to see any red glow or lava, you’ll have to go in the evening.
May to August is generally the best time to visit Iceland, as the weather is at its warmest, the days are at their longest, and all tourist accommodations are up and running. Of course, it also means Iceland is at its busiest. If you prefer fewer crowds, but still want the convenience of mild weather and long days, visit in late April or early September. Just be warned that many hotels and restaurants in the smaller towns only operate during peak tourist season.
During the day, you can see the smoke, but in order to see any red glow or lava, you’ll have to go in the evening.
May to August is generally the best time to visit Iceland, as the weather is at its warmest, the days are at their longest, and all tourist accommodations are up and running. Of course, it also means Iceland is at its busiest. If you prefer fewer crowds, but still want the convenience of mild weather and long days, visit in late April or early September. Just be warned that many hotels and restaurants in the smaller towns only operate during peak tourist season.
Odds n' Ends
An Eyjafjallajökul volcano tour should be made with a registered tour guide in a large 4x4 vehicle capable of off-roading. Travelling to the base of the volcano requires crossing rivers and driving over extremely rough roads, and should not be done by someone inexperienced in this type of driving.
The volcano’s position under the Eyjafjallajökull glacier means the constant risk of flash floods. To date, emergency services workers have blocked off the road from the base of the volcano eastward, where previous floods have washed out parts of the road and hiking trails. No one is permitted past the blockade, even with a tour guide.
For those who want a sneak peek of the action (or who can’t make it to Iceland), check out our Elsewhere on the Web section for links to webcams that have been set up at the site.
The volcano’s position under the Eyjafjallajökull glacier means the constant risk of flash floods. To date, emergency services workers have blocked off the road from the base of the volcano eastward, where previous floods have washed out parts of the road and hiking trails. No one is permitted past the blockade, even with a tour guide.
For those who want a sneak peek of the action (or who can’t make it to Iceland), check out our Elsewhere on the Web section for links to webcams that have been set up at the site.
Want a Guide?
Places to Eat
- Baejarins Beztu Pylsur
- There’s really nowhere to eat near the volcano, except for a small gas station in Hvolsvöllur or the restaurant in the town’s hotel. Instead, fuel up in Reykjavik before you go at the Baejarins Beztu hot dog stand. The name translates as “the best in town” and the constant line-up out front will testify to that. Ask for “eina með öllu” (one with everything) to get the full experience. It doesn’t have a website, but it’s so popular, it has its own Facebook page and Wikipedia entry.
- Kaffi Solon
- Reasonably priced, delicious meals served in a trendy, candlelit setting in downtown Reykjavik. With large windows that look out over the clubbing/shopping scene of Laugavegur Street, it’s a prime people-watching spot.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Hotel Hvolsvollur
- The hotel closest to the eruption site, offering clean but basic accommodations and free breakfast (the dinner, however, is startlingly expensive). On a clear night, the smoke and red glow from the eruption is visible from the hotel, and if it’s quiet, you might even hear the volcano’s rumbles.
- Hotel Odinsve
- This boutique hotel in downtown Reykjavik has crisp, clean rooms and super friendly staff.
- Luna Apartments
- For more privacy, these fully furnished apartments owned by Hotel Odinsve (above) offer a quiet home away from home in Reykjavik. Apartments are only available for guests staying three or more days.
- Home Apartments
- These fully furnished apartments are both cozy and uber stylish and are located in downtown Reykjavik, in the heart of the city’s nightlife and shopping district.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
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