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A Touch of Antiquity with a Modern Fervor in Sa Pa

Published on June 22, 2009 by Jared Dellinger, Writer

Country: Vietnam

The Experience

Sa Pa is known as the place of four seasons; with spring in the morning, summer at midday, autumn at dusk, and winter at night, creating a wonderful climate that you'll undoubtedly love. Located in Lao Cai Province, northwest Vietnam, this small mountain town is home to many ethnic minorities such as the H'mong, Dao and Tay people. Along the rolling slopes of the paddy fields, the true beauty of this small town can be seen in the careful balance between land and life.

As you wake in the morning and amble down to your breakfast, you can watch the sun rising over the eastern mountains, slowly burning off what is left of the clouds from the night before. In the distance you can begin to see the jagged mountaintops playing hide and seek through the clouds as they drift past, taunting you with what the day has to hold. As the allure becomes too much to bare, breakfast becomes a burden. Hurriedly swallowing what's left of your steaming green tea and Pho, you will become carried away in this playground for aspiring photographers.

There is much charm to Sa Pa, most of which are simple pleasures. Numerous trails and paths guide you through pastoral villages and an abundance of natural marvels. As you trek down to the base of the Sa Pa valley, you literally become engulfed in beauty, as the slopes of the terraces soar above you on either side, webbed with small waterfalls carved into the mountains. The atmosphere is so calm and relaxed, that the terraces look as though they are mirrored steps to heaven waiting for you to climb. It is astounding to think of all the time and tradition that has been put into the creation of these exquisite terraces, you can’t help but admire the ingenuity that has gone into them.

Another enchanting sight just outside of Sa Pa is the Thac Bac Waterfall, or the Silver Waterfall. Renting a motorcycle on a clear blue day and making your way along the small road that leads here, is as picturesque a drive as the waterfall itself. Repeated stops are required to capture the unhindered vistas of these vast surroundings. Rolling down intense grades makes you aware of how high up you are, and appreciate Sa Pa for what it is, a mountain town.

About 12 km outside of Sa Pa and up a few mountains, you will find the beautiful Thac Bac Waterfall. Entrance fee is 5,000 Dong, the equivalent of ¢. 30 US. After scaling the concrete steps you will come upon three pristine waterfalls, cascading down from one to the other, creating a silky white mist that hangs over the entire rock face. Sitting under one of the newly constructed pavilions scattered along the waters edge of Thac Bac, you can take in the view in silent awe. Listening to the calming roar of the water as it washes over the rocks makes this an ideal spot for a small picnic to get away from civilization for a while.

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Get Going!

During a stay in Sa Pa it is easy to set up tours that fit your preference. Whether you wish to visit minority villages who continue to wear their traditional dress in the valley, observe small children swimming unabashedly naked in the muddy waters as their parents rice plant, trek 15 km amongst terraced rice fields and bamboo forests, or just practice your photography on astounding views of the countryside, you will not be disappointed. The only way to fully understand the size, magnitude and amount of work put into the farming systems in Sa Pa is by seeing it with your own eyes. Pictures do no justice to the beauty of the Sa Pa countryside.

The climate in Sa Pa is absolutely wonderful, making you forget about the smothering humidity so prevalent throughout most of South East Asia. Leave behind the crowds and exhaust from the millions of motorbikes you're used to, for upon entering Sa Pa the small town charm will overcome you, as you glide through the small streets taking in the panoramic views of the valley below. Waterfalls abound as you dare to venture outside of town whether on your own, or guided by local villagers.

The dry season is a great time to visit Sa Pa. April or May onward, is a good bet and you will also have the pleasure of seeing locals plant their fields with oxen as it is planting season. If you want to wait until September or October, you can enjoy harvest season, and be generously rewarded with golden terraces overflowing with rice ready for harvest.

Odds n' Ends

If you are uncomfortable riding a motorbike independently, it is very easy to arrange one to take you to the Thac Bac waterfall or around the valley for that matter. It should be relatively cheap to rent a bike, about $4 US to $5 US a day. Cars can also be arranged, but the price will depend upon the number of people in your group. Walking to Thac Bac Waterfall is an option as well, however it is approximately 24 km round trip.

Cloudy days can become very chilly, especially close to Thac Bac; therefore it is a good idea to have a raincoat or something of that nature to protect against the chill. It is somewhat high up the mountains, so this must be taken into account and appropriate precautions should be taken. Food and water can be purchased at one of the many small stores throughout the area so money should be kept on hand in case something is needed.

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Mandarin , Vietnamese are some of the languages spoken in Vietnam. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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