There is a place in the South Pacific where beauty meets mystery, and tradition shakes hands with modern times in a way no other place on earth can match. Located on the Ambae Island in The Republic of Vanuatu, the lakes which crown Mount Manaro are sacred to the people in ways we can only try to understand.

The splendor of going to Mount Manaro isn’t just limited to swimming in one of the highest crater lakes in the South Pacific, or observing a smoking mound of sulphur among breathtaking waters. It's taking the time to learn about and participate in such a rare culture.

Mount Manaro is made up of two main crater lakes named Vui and Gesa. Vui Lake is active, has a large sulphur bed sitting in the centre, and gorgeous electric green waters filling its crater. The last major disturbance took place in 2005, yet at present it is fairly stable. Gesa Lake is a dormant volcano lying in a crater abutting Vui Lake and holding darker bluish-coloured water suitable for leisurely swimming. Together they make up Manaro, what Ni-Vanuatu (native citizens) consider to be the sacred ground where the spirit goes upon death.

People have only recently (the past forty years or so) begun to explore the uppermost reaches of Ambae Island. Custom dictates that upon death the spirit goes to the top of the volcano, Manaro, in order to live in the afterlife. Even to this day, when a person dies the body is buried with coconuts for food, along with natangora leaves and bamboo so the spirit may build a shelter. People go to the top of Mount Manaro to speak with deceased relatives, talk with spirits about important decisions, or for spiritual guidance in life.

We followed a ridgeline to the top, stretching to the northern corner of the crater where we slowly entered, catching glimpses of the lakes until almost suddenly they were upon us. Gesa Lake is cold due to the elevation, and its waters made for a refreshing dip after the effort endured to reach it. There is no life in Gesa Lake other than small tadpoles and a type of grass that lines the bottom, creating an eerie silence that seeps in as you survey the glossy surface of the water. In the far bank can be seen the yellow sulphur pile where in the past lava flowed freely throughout the crater. Clouds roll in and out obstructing views, and then drift off just as fast, helping you to understand why some people say there is a spiritual presence constantly watching over Mount Manaro. The result is culminated in the belief that the ground is haunted.

Vui Lake is not as visitor friendly because the waters are warm and the smell of sulphur permeates the air, creating that rotten egg smell which accompanies volcanic activity. There is no swimming in Vui Lake (unless you don’t want to leave), yet it is incredibly peaceful to sit and look out over the waters, appreciating the power and energy still actively warming the mass before you. A river of black sulphur can be seen flowing freely from the mound, impressing upon you how the volcano is still very much alive and well.

The rainy season may not be suitable for tourism in the Republic of Vanuatu due to the typhoon season. The best time to visit Mount Manaro on Ambae Island is during the dry season, starting at or around April until the mid to end of October. Guides are mandatory when hiking Mount Manaro, and essentially the hike is not available to those without one. Due to the sacred nature of the ground, you must be accompanied by a landowner, so make sure beforehand that you have arranged a trek with someone who is permitted to take people to Mount Manaro.

The easiest starting point to hike up Mount Manaro is from the village of Ambunga on the northeastern side Ambae Island. It is recommended that you have at least two days to complete the journey once you reach Ambae Island. Accommodation can be arranged in the capital, Port Vila, or in Espiritu Santo, the northernmost port. Getting to Ambae Island is possible by flying with the local airline (Air Vanuatu) to Saratamata airport, or taking a cargo ship from either Port Vila or Espiritu Santo to Lolowae, also on the east side.

If you are not accustomed to the food or way of life on the island of Ambae in The Republic of Vanuatu, it may prove to be a learning curse. It is wise to carry some food and toiletries that will make your stay more comfortable. Food and bedding is available if organized beforehand for a modest price, and all proceeds go directly to local families and villages.

It is incredibly rewarding to feel as though you have seen and taken part in an age-old tradition. The views from on top of Mount Manaro are amazingly beautiful, and the work needed to get there is well worth it. If you have the time and the desire, this is one of the off-the-beaten-path sites not many can say they have seen. For those seeking that rare experience—you have just found it!