A trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels is a strange, and in some ways, deeply emotional experience. Here the curious may crawl down the tiny tunnels that comb the jungle floor, watch animated mannequins reenact daily life during the Vietnam War, and examine some pretty brutal booby traps, oddly enough, all presented by cheerful and enthusiastic guides. Now a war memorial park, the 120 km long Cu Chi Tunnel network was once used by Vietcong fighters during the Vietnam War and functioned as the base of operations for the Tet Offensive in 1968. Today, the museum recreates the living quarters, battle techniques, and hiding places that enabled the Vietcong forces to withstand years of battle with a technologically superior enemy. For Westerners, seeing the war experience from the other perspective throws a very thought-provoking light on the war and the mindset of the modern day Vietnamese.

Upon our arrival at the Cu Chi Tunnels, a guide brought us to a dugout room where an introductory film was playing. Although I am not American, my husband is, and so we sat there squirming uncomfortably in our chairs while the black and white propaganda film showed scene after scene of young Vietcong fighters, some scarcely more than children, shooting at American soldiers.

That was only the beginning. The rest of the tour took us through the jungle, where parts of the Cu Chi Tunnels had been staged to look as they had when they were being used during the war. Some parts of the Cu Chi tour were quite fun and interesting – as one of the smaller-boned tourists, I was allowed to slip into one of the trapdoors leading into the tunnel network. I squatted in the cramped, dark tunnel, up to my knees in dry leaves. As the guide fitted the trapdoor back into place above me, I was enveloped by pitch-black darkness; briefly glimpsing into the conditions and claustrophobia the fighters must have experienced living in the tunnels. Over 6,000 Vietnamese lived, fought and worked in the Cu Chi Tunnels during the 1960's - 1975, and due to these strained living conditions sickness was rampant. Sometimes forced underground for days at a time due to bombings, the Vietnamese would face poisonous insects, scarce air and food supplies, and wearying battles against Malaria. The reality of wartime conditions continued to sink in as we were instructed to walk, backs bent, down a section of the 3-foot tall tunnel. One can only imagine the endurance it must have taken to live, day in and day out, in these tiny passageways.

Several of the booby traps used to injure or kill enemy soldiers were also on display at the Cu Chi Tunnels. Our guide proudly demonstrated how trapdoors were built in the jungle floor, ready to swing open and impale unsuspecting soldiers on sharp stakes, the iron used to make them scavenged from unexploded ordinances dropped by the Americans.

Not all of the tour was so grisly, however. We were treated to a snack of boiled cassava dipped in peanuts and sugar as we explored a dugout kitchen, and took a few minutes to pose for a photo in front of an American army tank. At the end of the tour, those who wanted to could purchase a few rounds and fire an assault rifle at the firing range.

Exploring the Cu Chi Tunnels turned out to be one of our most memorable adventures in Vietnam. Although it was at times, a disquieting experience, it was also interesting, fun, and one of the best ways to start exploring Vietnam’s War history and culture. The tunnels remain today as a symbol of the perseverance and determination that the Vietnamese people employed against a technologically superior enemy on one of the most famous battlegrounds of the Vietnam War.

This is a defining Vietnam experience! The Cu Chi Tunnels are located about 30 km from Ho Chi Minh City. Tours that include transportation to and from the site can be booked at very reasonable prices, typically under $10 USD from travel agencies or your hotel. There are two locations to see the tunnels, Ben Duoc and Ben Dinh. Ben Dinh is more frequented by tourists as it is closer to Ho Chi Minh and the guides are more fluent in English. It is interesting to note though, that the tunnels here have all been recreated after the war. Ben Duoc is where locals tend to visit. This location is approximately 3 hours from Ho Chi Minh, and guides are noticeably less comfortable with English, though the tunnels here have been adapted from original tunnels used during the war.

When planning your trip to Ho Chi Minh City, keep in mind that the summer months, June - August, are the rainy season. A good time to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels is between September - May, when the weather is warmer and dry.

Word of warning - the tour can be quite graphic in describing techniques used to injure or kill American soldiers. If you are a traveler who has lost loved ones in the Vietnam War, perhaps you are wise to sit this one out, as you may find the tour guide's cavalier attitude towards killing and maiming Americans offensive.

Also, although some of the tunnels have been enlarged and fitted with lights to accommodate Western tourists, they are still quite small, so if you suffer from claustrophobia, you may opt to skip that part of the tour. The tour is still worthwhile, however, and you are actually above ground most of the time.