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Drinking Stars in Épernay, France's Champagne Region
Published by Angela Jill, Writer
Country: France ![]()
The Experience
France is the birthplace of Champagne and Benedictine monk Dom Perignon. Quoted as saying “Come quickly, I'm drinking stars!,” when he first tasted Champagne, Dom Perignon is immortalized in the prestigious cuvée of Moët and Chandon for his advancements to the Champagne making process.
Épernay rivals Reims as the center for Champagne production in France. Travelers looking to taste stars and learn the origins of this drink synonymous with celebration and luxury, need only drive an hour and a half outside Paris to embark on an afternoon champagne tour in the heart of the Champagne region. There are many wineries or maisons at which one can sample many varieties of Champagne, including Moët and Chandon, Comtesse Lafond, Mercier and de Castellane. With more than 332km of cellars and tunnels dug into the earth beneath the town, Épernay is also a very easy city for Champagne cellar tours, all within walking distance of each other on L'Avenue de Champagne. There are enough wineries within walking distance to occupy the thirsty traveller for at least a few days.
Épernay Champagne is created using 3 grape varietals: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. Because red grapes are used, it can be pink or white, depending on the length of time the wine is left on its skins. The process of Champagne making commences like most other wines. What makes it sparkle is a second fermentation that takes place in the bottle. When you explore the champagne cellars of Épernay, you can see many of the steps of this process.
Mercier winery gives you an in depth look into Champagne making. Practically an amusement park, you start the Champagne tour (EU$ 9.00 including 1 dégustation, or EU$ 17 for 3) with a film, followed by an elevator ride with a window looking out onto a number of large sculpted scenes. Finally, after the descent into the enormous Mercier cellar, you hop into a little train and ride through various tunnels to see ancient machines used to ferment and store wine during various stages of production. The tour concludes with a liberal dégustation of delicious Champagne, an essential step in learning about the Champagne making process. A similar Champagne tour is available at Moet and Chandon, as it is also a very large producer.
After seeing a large winery, to get a more personal look at Épernay Champagne it's an excellent idea to visit Comtesse Lafond for a more intimate perspective. This small production winery does not have a lot of history, despite its historic Chateau that first draws you to the property. When you enter the shop, you'll find yourself in what seems like a cozy and luxurious living room complete with fire blazing to warm the room. Max, a Russian wine-making apprentice is there to speak to you in the language of your choice. For EU$ 8.00, you can choose 3 of 6 wines to sample, including one of their earliest vintages, 1998. All are delicious.
After all the wineries close, visit C-comme, a cafe conveniently located on the way to the train station from L'Avenue de Champagne. C-comme, which acts as a education centre, allows you to sample a wide variety of Champagne, not only from Épernay, but from Reims as well. They have their own cellar, which stocks Champagne for you to take home in any size and price. This is a great way to finish off the evening, and the tapas are great as well. Sitting at the bar is the best way to enjoy this place, as the well-travelled barmen and fellow patrons can be very entertaining. And you might be too after a day of Champagne tasting!
When to Go to Epernay Champagne
Sometimes, during harvest, there are closures of the wineries. You should always call ahead if you are planning a visit. The Épernay Tourist information Centre is a good first stop once you get to town, because they are able to tell you exactly which wineries are open for visits during your trip.
Odds n' Ends
Once you get out of the train station, follow signs for Tourist Information/Avenue de Champagne. You will find the tourist information on the way to the famous avenue. There are several wineries just on this road, which makes it a very easy destination for tasting many wines.
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