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Ride a Kalesa down Calle Crisologo, a Street Spared for Love
Published by Valerie Caulin, Writer
Country: Philippines 
The Experience
First established in the 16th century by Chinese traders from the Fujian province, Calle Crisologo, or Crisologo Street, is the main street in Vigan: the capital city of Ilocos Sur in northern Philippines. Vigan is a well-preserved Spanish colonial town that has withstood the trials of time, specifically during the Second World War. Crisologo Street is so impressively well-preserved that present day visitors can experience what life was like centuries ago.
To conserve this nostalgic colonial street in the heritage city of Vigan, only horse-drawn carriages are allowed to enter and pass, and are as common as the yellow cabs of New York City. Kalesas, or horse-drawn carriages, are one of the Spanish influences in the Philippines that have lost their popularity as other modes of transportation, like buses, jeepneys and tricyles (a motorcycle with a sidecar, similar to Thailand’s tuktuks) are more convenient. There are only a few places in the country that still use the kalesa, and these are now reserved for romantic weddings and other special occasions.
For 150 pesos (or less than US$4 per hour) you can tour Crisologo Street, as well other parts of the Vigan City, in the old colonial style of a kalesa. To ride the entirety of Calle Crisologo will take less than an hour, but you might get addicted and ride the kalesa throughout the whole of Vigan. The "drivers" are trained by the local Department of Tourism to act as your local tourist guide. The quaint sound of the horse’s hooves against the cobblestoned street, along with the sight of old colonial houses, will take you back in time to the Philippine Spanish era. It’s no wonder why Crisologo Street with the kalesa is the most photographed scene in Vigan, and often featured in postcards and various magazines.
A UNESCO Heritage Site, this cobblestoned street stretches up to 1 km and is lined with colonial houses. These houses are referred to as “bahay na bato,” or stone houses. They are two-storey houses with the ground floor made of stone and used as a granary or storage area, while the upper floor is made of wood and used exclusively for living quarters with its sliding windows adorned in capiz shells. The houses that line Crisologo Street are houses of affluent families, and are unique blends of Chinese and European architectures. Some of the houses in Calle Crisologo are now used as souvenir shops selling items from T-shirts to locally grown tobacco. Crisologo Street is also home to many antique stores selling pieces which are great souvenir items to bring back home such as woven fabrics crafted on wooden handlooms.
Stories have been told which suggest that the city of Vigan was spared destruction out of love. During the later part of the Second World War, retreating Japanese troops would blaze any town before leaving so that American forces could not make use of them. However, one Japanese general who lived and married a local girl in Vigan, made a pact with the parish priest to spare the city in exchange that the priest would take care of his family. The Japanese general may not have survived the war, but his undying love for his family saved a very lovely town and became one of Philippine’s most famous destinations.
To conserve this nostalgic colonial street in the heritage city of Vigan, only horse-drawn carriages are allowed to enter and pass, and are as common as the yellow cabs of New York City. Kalesas, or horse-drawn carriages, are one of the Spanish influences in the Philippines that have lost their popularity as other modes of transportation, like buses, jeepneys and tricyles (a motorcycle with a sidecar, similar to Thailand’s tuktuks) are more convenient. There are only a few places in the country that still use the kalesa, and these are now reserved for romantic weddings and other special occasions.
For 150 pesos (or less than US$4 per hour) you can tour Crisologo Street, as well other parts of the Vigan City, in the old colonial style of a kalesa. To ride the entirety of Calle Crisologo will take less than an hour, but you might get addicted and ride the kalesa throughout the whole of Vigan. The "drivers" are trained by the local Department of Tourism to act as your local tourist guide. The quaint sound of the horse’s hooves against the cobblestoned street, along with the sight of old colonial houses, will take you back in time to the Philippine Spanish era. It’s no wonder why Crisologo Street with the kalesa is the most photographed scene in Vigan, and often featured in postcards and various magazines.
A UNESCO Heritage Site, this cobblestoned street stretches up to 1 km and is lined with colonial houses. These houses are referred to as “bahay na bato,” or stone houses. They are two-storey houses with the ground floor made of stone and used as a granary or storage area, while the upper floor is made of wood and used exclusively for living quarters with its sliding windows adorned in capiz shells. The houses that line Crisologo Street are houses of affluent families, and are unique blends of Chinese and European architectures. Some of the houses in Calle Crisologo are now used as souvenir shops selling items from T-shirts to locally grown tobacco. Crisologo Street is also home to many antique stores selling pieces which are great souvenir items to bring back home such as woven fabrics crafted on wooden handlooms.
Stories have been told which suggest that the city of Vigan was spared destruction out of love. During the later part of the Second World War, retreating Japanese troops would blaze any town before leaving so that American forces could not make use of them. However, one Japanese general who lived and married a local girl in Vigan, made a pact with the parish priest to spare the city in exchange that the priest would take care of his family. The Japanese general may not have survived the war, but his undying love for his family saved a very lovely town and became one of Philippine’s most famous destinations.
When to Go to Crisologo Street
Vigan City, where Calle Crisologo is located, lies 400 km from the capital city of Manila. You can take the 10-hour bus ride to Vigan, or take a 1-hour plane ride to Laoag City, which is the capital of its neighbouring province of Ilocos Norte. From here, you can reach Vigan via a bus ride (1 ½-hour trip). From the bus terminal, a tricycle will take you to Calle Crisologo.
The best time of the year to visit Vigan City is during the cooler months of June till January. During the summer months of April and May, it is so blazing hot that you may find it spoils the enjoyment of your holiday. June and September is the rainy season in the Philippines, but you don’t need to worry for it seldom rains in the Ilocos province.
There are no school classes in the Philippines during the summer months of April and May, and most people (especially families) prefer to travel then. Likewise, avoid holidays and breaks during Christmas (2nd week of December till January 2), semester breaks for college students (middle of October till first week of November), All Soul’s Day and All Saint’s Day (November 1-2) and Holy Week in April.
The best time to take a kalesa ride down Calle Crisologo is during early morning and late afternoon. During this time, shops are closed and only a few tourists are in the street. This creates a real time travel experience. The colonial-style lights of Crisologo Street also add to its beauty. If you are into photography, this is the best time to take shots of Calle Crisologo.
After the ride, try taking a relaxing walk along the street. There are plenty of wooden benches (with their ends shaped like the wheels of a kalesa) for you to take a rest along the way. And to complete this experience, stay in pension houses and inns, and sleep in old and Spanish-style rooms close to the Calle Crisologo. This is where you will hear the horses passing by at night.
The best time of the year to visit Vigan City is during the cooler months of June till January. During the summer months of April and May, it is so blazing hot that you may find it spoils the enjoyment of your holiday. June and September is the rainy season in the Philippines, but you don’t need to worry for it seldom rains in the Ilocos province.
There are no school classes in the Philippines during the summer months of April and May, and most people (especially families) prefer to travel then. Likewise, avoid holidays and breaks during Christmas (2nd week of December till January 2), semester breaks for college students (middle of October till first week of November), All Soul’s Day and All Saint’s Day (November 1-2) and Holy Week in April.
The best time to take a kalesa ride down Calle Crisologo is during early morning and late afternoon. During this time, shops are closed and only a few tourists are in the street. This creates a real time travel experience. The colonial-style lights of Crisologo Street also add to its beauty. If you are into photography, this is the best time to take shots of Calle Crisologo.
After the ride, try taking a relaxing walk along the street. There are plenty of wooden benches (with their ends shaped like the wheels of a kalesa) for you to take a rest along the way. And to complete this experience, stay in pension houses and inns, and sleep in old and Spanish-style rooms close to the Calle Crisologo. This is where you will hear the horses passing by at night.
Odds n' Ends
Since the weather in Vigan is hotter than most parts of the Philippines, wear comfortable and light clothing. Wearing a cap or a hat is a wise thing to do, and take bottled water with you. Never wear heels; it is very uncomfortable when walking in the cobblestone street. Flip flops are the best footwear to have.
International tourists may find the kalesa a little bit small for two passengers. If you are travelling with a friend or two, take one kalesa each and help more locals in their livelihood… and save the horse from the heavy load.
Vigan and Calle Crisologo are very laid back, and may be too silent for tourists who love drinking and partying. On the other hand, this is the perfect place to unwind and relax after the partying!
International tourists may find the kalesa a little bit small for two passengers. If you are travelling with a friend or two, take one kalesa each and help more locals in their livelihood… and save the horse from the heavy load.
Vigan and Calle Crisologo are very laid back, and may be too silent for tourists who love drinking and partying. On the other hand, this is the perfect place to unwind and relax after the partying!
Places to Eat
- Cafe Leona
- The most famous restaurant in Vigan serving lunch buffet of native dishes. If you will not stay overnight in Vigan, you can ask a favor to leave your bags in their restaurant while you explore the Heritage Village of Vigan.
- Max's Restaurant
- A famous chain of restaurants in the Philippines with fired chicken as their specialty. Located at the entrance of Calle Crisologo, this restaurant has wi-fi connection.
- Cafe Uno
- The first coffee shop in Vigan city serving hot and cold beverages, desserts, pasta and sandwiches.
- Uno Grille
- Serves pork, chicken and beef grilled dishes in a traditional Ilocano ambiance.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Granpa's Inn
- Located a few meters from Calle Crisologo, Granpa's Inn is one of the most popular and oldest accommodations in Vigan City.
- Vigan Heritage Mansion Hotel
- A 19th century mansion turned into a hotel, the Vigan Heritage Mansion Hotel offers modern accommodation with their old and rustic ambiance and interiors.
- Villa Angela
- Spanish style accommodation that is popular as the place where Hollywood actor Tom Cruise stayed during his visit.
- Cordillera Inn
- A budget-friendly accommodation that is located right on Crisologo Street.
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
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