/countries/show/spain/2.rss en-us As May creeps into June, you should be packing your bags, buying a ticket and flying over the Atlantic to eastern Spain to participate in a festival called the Castells of Catalonia. It is at this time, in a tradition passed through the generations, that teams of “castellers” get together in small towns throughout Catalonia and construct what can only be described as “human towers,” up to 3-stories in height, as a dramatic form of competition and regional pride. Participating in the Castells of Catalonia, you will be witnessing a tradition that began in the 17th century in a small village called Valls in France, and which arrived in north-eastern Spain in the 18th century. Historians claim the tradition was started by local dance groups creating human structures as part of their performances. But in modern times the Castells of Catalonia now involves more than 7,000 castellers within 54 teams across the region, and who raise an astounding 16,000 castells per year. The motto of these castellers is “Balance, Courage, Reason and Strength,” and it’s easy to see why. The rules are simple: to be successful, the “colles” (teams) must successfully build and dismantle their tower of “castellers” (team members). All castells are constructed in three parts: pinya, tronc, and pom de dalt, and each part of the castell is as important as the next if the team wants to be successful. The “pinya,” or base, is formed of the strongest people to take the most weight, as it acts like a shock absorber in case someone up top falls. On top of the pinya, the “tronc” is built, depending on the style of castell being constructed. This takes a number of castellers as well as a number of levels to complete. Then comes the last section, known as “pom de dalt,” which is followed by the single crowning moment when a young child climbs up onto the top of the tower to salute the public. This final stage is known as “anxaneta.” As a participant, you will stand shoulder to shoulder with the others, observing and forming the pinya as the music fills the plaza and the group surges together. The music will change into a different rhythm as the tronc, made up of one to five people, begins to take shape. Once this human structure is set into place, the music changes again, and the “pom de dalt” is formed. Every stage is filled with passion, hope and a commitment to complete the castell, and the energy and stress in the participants is obvious as they patiently endure the physical strain. Finally, the last casteller, known as the “anxaneta,” begins the slow climb to the top. It is widely accepted within Catalan society that participating in building castells creates a positive bond between the participants. This creative tradition, once only allowed to men, is now open to women, children and foreigners to participate in raising castells each year. Whether the tower fails or if it is crowned, it is a moment of triumph for everyone involved, and that makes it a perfect excuse to come to Catalonia and experience a union between people that will last a lifetime. Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:09:41 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/castells-of-catalonia http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/castells-of-catalonia Spain is a country with long ties to high energy animal traditions such as bullfighting. But it is also home to another lesser known event: horse wrestling. Travel to Spain's small village of Pontevedra in Sabucedo, and join locals as they herd horses down a mountain to a semi-round corral in town to be sheared and branded. This practice is known as "A Rapa das Bestas" (Cropping the Beasts). This Spanish festival is more than just a show of strength and courage. The Rapa das Bestas is done to pay homage to St. Laurence, whose intercession saved the town from a plague. According to the legend, two sisters fervently prayed to him to save the townspeople, and when he did, the sisters offered two fine mares to the saint in gratitude. Moreover, Rapa das Bestas is a chance to give medical attention to wild horses that might be ailing or suffering from parasites like fleas and ticks. Rapa das Bestas gathers able-bodied men and women at the top of a hill to gather horses and herd them into a semicircle stone corral below. There, aloitadores (fighters) form a three-man group to pin down a horse. The practice of horse wrestling is highly physical and may not be pleasant for everybody to see. It involves one of the fighters jumping onto the back of a horse, making the animal unsteady, and two others coming up from their positions to pull the neck and the tail until the horse falls flat on the ground. Then, the horse’s mane and tail is sheared unceremoniously, done to prevent the horse from overheating and perishing during the summer. Some of the horses may even be branded if they have not been tagged from previous Horse Wrestling Festivals. The townspeople of Pontevedra are exceptionally proud to participate in Rapa das Bestas. The practice of horse grooming takes place throughout the summer, but the most well-known event is the three-day Horse Wrestling Festival in Sabucedo, held at the beginning of July. Visitors are welcome to herd horses down the mountain during Rapa das Bestas, but only the noble locals can bring them down once corralled. Using nothing but their bare hands to bring them down, this is one extreme horse grooming festival. Thu, 22 Sep 2011 21:29:46 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/rapa-das-bestas http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/rapa-das-bestas Should you find yourself in Madrid around the middle of May each year, you might notice that a healthy portion of the populace is traditionally dressed with red carnations stuck in their vest buttonholes or pinned to their hoop skirts. This is for the Festival of Saint Isidro, the Patron Saint of Madrid, Spain, and of La Ceiba in Honduras. Should you follow a mass of these folks, who will occasionally cluster together to sing choral arrangements, you will undoubtedly find yourself (eventually) at some street party or another where thousands of Madrid’s inhabitants have come to talk and drink long into the evening. To the residents of Madrid, this late spring Festival of Saint Isidro marks the beginning of the long hot summer, and more importantly, the bull fighting season. The costumes are used to conjure a sense of traditional Spanish life. The holiday is attended with a sense of cultural pride and celebration of Spanish life. Therefore, traditional Spanish food, music and stories all have a place at the table. The focus of the festival is Saint Isidro, a Madrid native. Born here around 1070, he was renowned for his piety and kindness, and several minor miracles are attributed to him. Apparently, he opened a spring in the earth one day to quench his master's thirst. He was a curer, and even brought his master's daughter back to life. He is also said to have employed the help of angels to increase his productivity at the plow. In accordance with tradition, on May 15th every year, carved images of Saint Isidro and his wife are removed from the Colegiata, where he lived beside Plaza Mayor, and carried through the streets. Later, whole families of costumed Madrileños, called Chulapos, gather in the plaza for singing and dancing. This is a relatively small part of the festival, however. Despite religious trappings, the holiday nowadays centers on civic and family pride rather than the church. The modern-day festivities occur in the part old Madrid that Isidro would have known well. If for no other reason, the festival is a good opportunity to exercise your imagination by seeing thousands of people in period dress against the medieval architecture. Throughout the week of the Festival of Saint Isidro, you'll find rock concerts installed around the city as well as various cultural events. The bedrock, however, is the scene every evening in the Latina district, where people gather to party all night long. Streets are lined with bars and kiosks where masses of people congregate to talk and to drink beer, sangria, kalimoxos (red wine and coke), and cocktails. Things to do, per se, are minimal; the entertainment is the rest of the people. It's best if you don't get too hung up on seeing this or doing that, better to do what the Spanish do and go with the flow. One of the great attributes of the Spanish people is their ability to have so much fun just being together. Like all festivals in Madrid, the emphasis here is on socializing more than anything else. The vibe is relaxed and jovial. If you find a spot where young and old Spaniards alike are joking and laughing, kids dressed up like Oliver Twist are running around under the tables, and the hot Spanish evening is drifting pleasantly by—stop for a drink and a chat: you've found the party. Thu, 09 Jun 2011 05:25:59 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/festival-of-saint-isidro-madrid http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/festival-of-saint-isidro-madrid It is virtually impossible to visit the vibrant, art-infused city of Barcelona and not be drawn into the captivating world of Gaudi (Antoni Gaudi i Cornet), the creator of Spain's most famed monument: La Sagrada Familia. Your first taste of the historical significance held by this man and his work will be the hundreds of miniature replicas of La Sagrada familia, which are crammed onto shelves of the gift shops lining the main street of Barcelona: La Rambla. Apart from every hostel and hotel offering a “Gaudi Tour,” there were also the more in-depth and (dare I say more accurate) historical Sagrada Familia tours for those willing to spend a bit more for a museum-quality tour dedicated to Gaudi. You should be able to find a free walking tour led by a Catalan native very well versed and highly informed in both the man Gaudi and the history of his architectural influence in Catalonia (which is one of many autonomous provinces in Spain, and includes Barcelona, Girona, Lleida and Tarragona). Most tours commence in Placa Reial, where Gaudi’s first commissioned work stands in the form of a lamppost. Even in his early work, his distinct, neo-gothic and nature-inspired style is apparent. The Gaudi tours will lead you to many, very impressive structures designed by this revolutionary architect; but non as awe-inspiring as the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família. Most tours conclude with the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família in a highly climactic way. Upon exiting the metro stop named after the masterpiece, the full splendour of this cathedral is in sight. Construction of the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família commenced in 1882, and Gaudi took over creative and architectural leadership in 1883 after producing a small scale model of the vibrant and colourful building. Following his death in 1926, the historical society had gone to great lengths to ensure the Sagrada Família Cathedral was built according to Gaudi's original vision. The entire structure consists of eighteen bell towers, each representing a significant figure of the Catholic faith, including Jesus and the Virgin Mary. Gaudi had a distinct plan for every stone which made up the building, and this is partly the reason why it has taken decades to build (the estimated date of completion is 2026). The colourful facades and beautifully carved exterior walls tell the history of the Catholic faith and of the life of Jesus Christ. As you walk around the outside of Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, each turn reveals a new story and each tower is seemingly more intricate then the last. The style could be best described as a combination of modern gothic design with a clear inspiration drawn from nature, giving the cathedral an organic quality. Inside, the building is just as impressive. Although still under construction, the interior has a magical and organic aura which makes you feel as though you are inside a giant living creature. The colourful, kaleidoscopic stained-glass windows cast beautiful designs on the white supporting columns, which bare resemblance to tall palm trees. Though Sagrada Familia tickets cost about 12 euro to enter, it is well worth it as you can watch the stone masons carefully carving each stone in the fashion Gaudi himself had instructed. As Sagrada Familia was also deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980, it has gained huge popularity with tourists and history buffs alike. To stand in front of this structure and imagine the hours of painstakingly intricate stone masonry which went into this grand creation, is a truly awe-inspiring experience that cannot be missed. Wed, 08 Jun 2011 02:06:24 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/sagrada-familia http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/sagrada-familia Cordoba's Great Mosque in Andalusia, southern Spain, is a glory of the Islamic world and Europe's most magnificent Muslim monument. What makes this UNESCO World Heritage Site especially intriguing is its long and checkered history, once serving as a Roman temple, Visigothic cathedral, Christian church, and Moorish mosque. Today, the Great Mosque of Cordoba (“La Mezquita”) is Cordoba's cathedral, known as the “Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption” since the Spanish Reconquista (711-1492) saw the Moorish empire fall to Christian conquerors. A curious blend of architectural styles and Islamic influences still linger inside Cordoba Mezquita's stunning interior. For many Andalucians, the Cordoba Mosque is a lasting symbol of city's heyday as the Moorish Empire's westernmost Caliphate. The mosque's construction lasted over two centuries, beginning under Emir Abd ar-Raman I in 784 AD during a time when the city's public spaces flourished alongside its prosperity and population. Many stunning mosques, public baths, patios, gardens and fountains were built, while the royal court cultivated some of Iberia's most eminent Jewish, Arabic and Christian scholars. Cordoba became a place of pilgrimage for Muslims who could not travel to Mecca or Jerusalem, and the Mezquita was central to this change. Its architectural design was revolutionary, providing a simple, open space where the spirits of worshippers could roam free. During the 9th century, the Cordoba Great Mosque held relics of the prophet Mohammed, along with an original copy of the Koran, making it a site of particular importance to Muslim worshippers. When Cordoba was captured from the Moors in 1236 by King Ferdinand III of Castille, the Mezquita was not torn down but simply consecrated and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Eventually a nave, chapels and a choir were added, but efforts were made to preserve at least some of the Islamic features of Cordoba's Mezquita. It's this curious layering of styles over the centuries that gives the Mezquita its unique appearance. The spacious interior of Cordoba’s Great Mosque is entered through the tranquil Patio de los Naranjos: a courtyard of orange trees and fountains where worshippers would cleanse their bodies. The eye is immediately drawn to the cathedral tower rising dramatically out of the heart of the Great Mosque. Built during the early 13th century out of the Mezquita's minaret, it strikes a contrast with the rest of the building. Once inside the prayer hall, you are surrounded by a forest of 856 columns constructed out of jasper, onyx, marble, and granite. Representative of many periods, from Roman to Visigothic and Byzantine, these pillars were excavated from the various sacred buildings which occupied this spot. Supporting a series of red and white striped arches, they make for an iconic photograph. The mihrab, built under Emir Al-Hakim II, is a domed shrine which faces Mecca. Its walls are decorated with the kinds of intricate and lavish patterns often seen in Moorish palaces, while its portal features a shimmering gold mosaic. Sourced from Byzantine Constantinople, it depicts flower motifs and extracts from the Koran. Don't miss out on visiting the Cordoba Cathedral Mosque, where you are transported centuries ahead to the dramatic architecture of Christian Spain. The cathedral's focus is its 16th-century Baroque choir, noted for its gothic archways, mahogany stalls and intricate marble carvings. The altar is also awe-inspiring, featuring a richly ornamented screen of jasper and red marble. Thu, 31 Mar 2011 02:25:04 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/mezquita-mosque http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/mezquita-mosque Many people who only have a brief time in Spain put Granada on their short list of places to visit. This is because Granada is a beautiful, hilly town in the southern state of Andalucía that charmingly represents some of the most exotic and beautiful elements of Spanish culture. Here you find winding roads through ancient Moorish neighbourhoods, plentiful shade from orange and lemon trees, flamenco culture, an elegant cathedral, and the world-famous Alhambra Palace: perhaps the world's best preserved Moorish fortress. Any visit to Granada should include a few days for sightseeing and at least one full day for a visit to the Alhambra. This is not a single building but an expansive complex including battlements, a palace, a royal garden and various state buildings added in later centuries. While admission isn't unreasonably expensive, there are separate Alhambra tickets to buy for visits to different areas; and in the high season reservations are a must. Rising above the city on a steep hill beside the river, the Alhambra in Granada looms over everything, with flags fluttering. The walk up to the main entrance is itself beautiful, and you pass through a small Mediterranean forest landscaped with fountains and containing the ruins of medieval structures. It quickly becomes apparent why the Moors chose this hill. The view is commanding, and they would have been able to use their advanced engineering skills to redirect the adjoining river to irrigate this high defensible outcrop. Within the grounds, the tiered gardens are a princely paradise where generations of rulers consorted with nobles and gazed out over the kingdom. The complicated irrigation channels, archways, benches and sculpted vegetation were the height of luxury in their time, and have been a beacon to architects and artists all over the world for centuries. The adjoining Alhambra Palace is largely intact, offering one of the best glimpses into Moorish life and art available anywhere. Filled with mosaics and intricate stone carving, the palace reflects the splendour and extravagance of a radiant bygone culture. The artwork found here is on a par with some of the best preserved, ancient mosques in the Middle East and India. As with any visit to a castle, a great part of the fun is walking the defensive wall and imagining enemy raiders at the gates. The Alhambra offers a chance to walk up winding stone stairways, peer through arrow slits, and examine the workings of a castle interior. The Alhambra museum on the grounds offers visitors a deeper look into the culture that built the complex and its relevance to Spanish Culture. The art and architecture of the Alhambra is stunning, but the integration into its setting is what makes it sublime. From the palace gardens you will look up and see the white-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. This is where the water comes from that forms the river rushing past the exterior fortress wall. After water is diverted from the river to tend these gardens, and once quench the king's thirst, it continues into the shimmering valleys of Andalucía, full of cypress trees and green pastures. Eventually the land meets the Mediterranean shore where you can stand on a bluff and see Africa, the Moorish homeland, not too far away. Tue, 22 Mar 2011 02:12:50 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/alhambra http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/alhambra A visit to the small Spanish town of Cuenca makes a great day trip from Madrid. Cuenca is famous for its “hanging houses,” and you will find in Cuenca an intact Medieval village hewn from stone and built onto a high bluff in the middle of a canyon. You can see traces of the Moorish culture that originally settled the area, and enough ruins, fortress walls and stone arches to ignite your imagination. The modern part of the village is a charming seat of local culture. The downtown part offers sidewalk bars and cafés, and all the friendly ambiance and semi-nocturnal social life you would expect from a Castilian town. But up the hill in the old town you'll find the real reason for your visit - the hanging houses of Cuenca. Here, ancient medieval structures of yellow stone stand much as they always have, rising out of the pastoral landscape as though pushed up from the rocks themselves. The hanging houses are narrow multi-storied dwellings that dramatically abut the cliff edge or even cantilever out over the edge. No one knows for sure who built them, and most people assume it was the Moors who ruled from 714 (the area was uninhabited during Roman times). All over Spain, the Moors brought revolution in the form of new techniques in irrigation and architecture, not to mention their dramatic visual style. People still marvel at the Arabian-looking hilltop fortress towns that dot the Spanish landscape. Along with the great Alhambra in Grenada, Cuenca is a shining example of the form. As with other examples of the style, the old village at Cuenca reflects Christian changes or rebuilds on top of the Muslim styles, adding new layers of history. There are plentiful churches, a cathedral, ecclesiastical residences, nunneries, and other historical Christian sites to visit. The ruins of an ancient castle that stands at the peak of the hill was originally Moorish. Christian kings later took up residence, and it was a seat of the Spanish Inquisition in the 16th century. The French destroyed it centuries later during Napoleon's reign. The whole town of Cuenca, Spain is built to interlock on the hilltop, as castle towns were back then. Stone arches connect buildings that flow into multi-levelled plazas where stone fountains and ancient stairways are seamlessly incorporated. Strolling around provides one surprise after another as you discover nooks for statuary, winding stone pathways along the ancient defensive wall with views over the river below, and worn stone benches where hundreds of generations of people have stopped to rest. The hanging houses at Cuenca is a wonderful place to explore on foot. You can see it all in a day, and each turn reveals some new historical tidbit that requires your attention. Besides wandering around, there are several other worthwhile things to do in this small town. From the hanging houses, cross over the high pedestrian bridge that spans the gorge. This begins a switchback hiking trail that takes you about a mile up the hillside. You'll pass under huge hanging boulders as impressive as the hanging houses that were probably inspired by them. The easy but steep hike gives you a taste of the regional landscape, beautiful in spring when little grassy glens fill up with wild flowers. At the top you reach a huge statue of Jesus Christ, and from his feet is a postcard-worthy view of the whole town if Cuenca. On your way back down, notice the tall hanging houses across the gorge. One of the most beautiful, with carved overhanging wooded beams, is a Modern Art museum. Circle back around and pay the small entrance fee. The collection of Spanish abstract paintings is quite complete, and the building has been excellently restored, with views that get increasingly better as you spiral up the narrow building. You'll easily find other things to do and see in Cuenca. It's a great size for strolling, and you won't feel pressured to move fast. Any of a hundred tiny features or views deserves at least a moment to reflect upon and enjoy. Tourism in Cuenca is relatively light, and local food and drink are cheaply available. For a glimpse into a disappeared time and way of life, consider a visit to the hanging houses of Cuenca. This is the Europe of your imagination. Wed, 09 Feb 2011 04:19:40 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hanging-houses http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hanging-houses The Spanish are very social people, and a great many of the things they do are done in groups, socially. The big Spanish holidays reflect this strong flare for community, and Spain's Holy Week leading up to Easter every year showcases a very strong and ancient civic tradition, one that appears downright sinister to the casual North American observer. But don't be afraid, it's all very wholesome. It's just Semana Santa in Spain. For Semana Santa holy week, the potential shock-factor for North Americans comes from the costume adopted by the masses as they process through the streets celebrating Jesus's last days. The costume clothing known as Capirote is identical to, and was in fact the inspiration for, the blood-chilling outfits that the Ku Klux Klan made famous in the U.S. last century. To stumble unprepared into a huge Semana Santa procession of torchlit, mask-wearing crowds in heavy robes with pointy hats evokes an unholy cultish rite of some kind. It doesn't hurt that somber brass bands play, candles abound, and several of the faithful stagger penitently under the weight of heavy floats bearing the images of saints. But really, these are the good Catholics of the town, reenacting events from Christ's last week before the Crucifixion, often called the Passion of Christ. Each night a new chapter in the Semana Santa pasos (procession) unfolds, with each church group filling a role in the solemn pageantry. The parades move slowly and with dignity, but don't forget that this is Spain where socializing is so highly valued. The days and most of the nights of the Holy Week pass happily preparing for the events, gathering in groups, meeting for refreshments and conversation, and drinking plenty of spirits to stay warm. In the Castilla region of central Spain, a visit to any medium sized town in the week before Easter promises exposure to many unique Semana Santa processions. Citizens are generally in a festive mood, at ease and happy to engage in conversation. Pubs and bars are lively places as groups of men and women get together before the day's event. Toward evening, the plazas fill up with folks getting into their Capirote costumes for the slow build up. Many nights, the slow formal parades of lifelike sculptures evolve into smaller more unruly processions and gatherings that last all night. Some towns boast a drunkard parade that picks up as the formal rites wind down. People in many Spanish towns participate in these Semana Santa festivities from childhood into old age. Folks who've moved away will come back to take part and to check in with all the neighbours, since everyone will be out in the street all week. Visiting Castilla at this time is quite nice; still cold, but warming up, and spring is around the corner. A good plan is to choose an interesting city in the region to visit: Cuenca, Segovia, Toledo, Salamanca, León, and many other ancient cities boast big Semana Santa festivals. Spend the day seeing the sights, then get a hotel and stay the night. The nocturnal Spanish will start to gather as evening falls, coming out in force to the streets. By nightfall, huge crowds will have gathered for the Semana Santa processions. Thousands are dressed in intimidating Capirote ceremonial robes and masks straight out of the Middle Ages. Slowly and piously at first, later more rowdily, they proceed through the streets all night long. Though the tradition of Spain's Semana Santa is impressive in its agedness, the prevailing mood is not epic but local and reserved. The general feeling among the townspeople is tranquilly festive, sort of Christmas-like. Even without understanding all of the traditions, you can't help but be affected by the exhibit of civic pride and cultural unity. Far from being sinister, Semana Santa in Spain is downright charming. Tue, 25 Jan 2011 04:33:05 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/semana-santa http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/semana-santa Madrid has old churches and historic plazas, but it's all mixed in with the daily grind of the metropolitan Spanish capital. Many visitors choose to explore Segovia next door where you can see an aqueduct, a castle, and a cathedral all within the historic city's defensive walls. The Segovia aqueduct alone is worth the visit. Casting its shadow over the Plaza Azoguejo, this massive Roman structure stands straight and true after 2,000 years without a drop of mortar. And it still works, bringing Segovia much of its water from the Fuente Fría River in the nearby foothills. Passing among the arches, it's easy to get dreamy about civilizations long gone. Climbing the hill into town, examples of Moorish-inspired Medieval Catholic architecture line the streets made for horsemen. Rising above the odd-angled stone neighborhood, the Catedral de Santa María stands like a polished stone crystal pushed up from the earth. The interior of the Cathedral in Segovia isn't covered with marble and gold, it's hewn from dark grey stone and is as silent as a tomb. Instead of impressing you with shiny things, the Catedral de Santa María awes you with its austere and massive proportions. Everything is huge inside. Giant black gates tower overhead evoking the final judgment and putting into perspective the awesome height of the stone dome. There is a gallery where the monks would sit to sing. In the middle on a huge stand lie open three man-sized hymnbooks for all to read. The Catedral de Santa María evokes an earlier God-fearing time in Christiania. Outside and through another neighborhood you will soon come to Alcazár Castle, which looks basically like the one where Mickey Mouse lives. The Alcazár sits on the edge of the defensive bluff that falls away from the back end of Segovia. There's a cool moat pit in front, and you can go up in one of the towers to check out the view. Impressively, you can visit the throne room inside where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, familiar to all American school children, were married. In the streets of Segovia, you may see a life-size statue of a man in full KKK attire carrying a cross. Don't be frightened, normal Catholics wear these outfits every year in Castilla when taking part in Semana Santa festivities; and they were doing it first. More about that, though, in another article. After lunch, cochinillo (roast baby pig) is the local specialty in Segovia, and if you still have energy, go back to the aqueduct and turn right for a stroll down to the river. It's not a good place for swimming, but there's a nice path along the river's edge that is quite refreshing in this dry climate. Like most places in Segovia, Spain is polite and easygoing. The people are not pushy or obsequious, and traffic is considerate, which is generally very good for subdued strolling. You will undoubtedly see lots of elderly folk out for a stroll too. One old man, since he had no particular destination anyway, kindly walked us all the way to the bus station when we got turned around. There is more to see and do in Segovia, plenty of odd corners and curiosities to explore, but the highlight is the open-air appeal of a town that continues to function in the footprint of ancient civilizations. The visitor should adopt an attitude of mild wonder and enjoy the day just strolling along looking for whatever interesting thing might be around the corner. Tue, 11 Jan 2011 01:48:15 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/catedral-de-santa-maria http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/catedral-de-santa-maria Officially named Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, no trip to Barcelona, Spain, is complete without a stop at the famous La Boqueria market. This large public market has a long history dating as far back as 1217, and in all those years it has gone through many renovations, transformations and namesakes. Now a major tourist site, you can find just about anything from fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood and meat, to baked goods, cheeses, sweets and nuts. Everything from the ordinary to the exotic can be found and tasted here. Located on Las Ramblas, North of the Liceu Metro Station, this large public market is open Monday to Saturday from early morning until 8:30 pm.  Entering the market through the main entrance on the west side of La Rambla Blvd, your eyes will instantly wander to the mouth-watering sight of fruit salad with berries, citrus and melon, passion fruit and star fruit. At this point, try and hold off your appetite for the approximately eight hundred stalls of food awaiting you. It's hard to know which direction to head off in as aisle upon aisle will turned your head to take in all the sights and smells. Mingling with the locals as they buy their daily produce, and jostling with the other tourists, it’s very easy to get lost in the maze of the market.  Spend some time wandering around, and marvel at the amazing list of ingredients. It would be great to be a chef and collect ingredients to cook in your kitchen after a visit here. It’s very easy to lose track of time. There are plenty of cafes within the market to grab a coffee and a quick snack, or to have a beer and a full meal.  Pull up a stool at a cafe—or more accurately wait to pull up a stool during the busy lunch hour—and sample some of the tapas on display.  You don’t have to worry if you don’t speak Spanish— smiling and pointing can be every affective. Sit down next to some of the locals and experience the freshness and flavours of the Spanish Catalonian cuisine while you people watch and take a break from your travels.  Mon, 04 Oct 2010 20:46:12 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/la-boqueria-market http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/la-boqueria-market If we believe what the Basque people of Spain say about themselves being the oldest ethnic group in Europe, then perhaps their famous pintxos (also: pinchos) are the grandfather of the Spanish tapas that we all know and love.  Either way, the País Vasco knows how to put together tiny foods with enormous appeal.    The best place to enjoy pintxos is, without a doubt, San Sebastian—more specifically the Parte Vieja of San Sebastian: the old quarter east of the Playa de la Concha.  The best time to enjoy pintxos (pronounced “peen-chose”) is in the evening before dinner when “donostiarras” (the locals) do their “txikiteo” (the Basque version of a pub crawl).  Txikiteo (pronounced “cheeky-tay-oh”) involves moving from place to place, having a couple of pintxos at each tavern and a pint of beer, or perhaps a more local beverage.  More traditional beverages are the “sidra,” an effervescent and dry cider, or the “txakoli” (pronounced “cha-koh-lee”), a dry and tangy Basque version of champagne.  Both beverages are poured from as high as the bartender can reach.    The concentration of pintxos bars in the Parte Vieja is the largest in San Sebastian, which makes it the best place to experience this wonderful tasty activity.  One of the first things you'll notice when going into a San Sebastian pintxos bar is that there is rubbish all over the floor.  This is because, for the most part, they don't use plates and cutlery; they use napkins and hands.  This is a very rustic way of eating, but food seems to taste better when you're not worried about etiquette.  Afterwards, feel free to throw the napkin on the floor.    Endless combinations of foods make up these delightful morsels, and more often than not they are served on a little slice of bread and skewered with a pincho or pintxo (toothpick; or more exactly translated as “spike”). It's difficult to decide what to try from the array of beautiful pintxos that fill the bar. Generally, the staff are very friendly and can advise you on what they think you should try.  Some of the best pintxos are the most simple, such as bread topped with goats cheese, caramelized onions and walnuts, or bread topped with a slice of tomato, a fried egg and a piece of bacon.  Some are far more elaborate, such as foie gras and mango, or stuffed squid.  Whatever it is, you can be fairly certain it will be delicious.  Tue, 21 Sep 2010 16:46:05 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/pintxos-san-sebastian http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/pintxos-san-sebastian Aside from being the birthplace of paella, there is only one thing that the Spanish city of Valencia is famous for – the delightful papier-mâché models, pageantry and fireworks that take over the town for the Las Fallas festival. Staged annually on March 19th, this centuries-old festival has become a four-day extravaganza that attracts thousands of domestic and international tourists to the city every year. The event traces its origins back to a custom of the city’s carpenters, who burned their scrap wood and utensils worn out from the winter in time for the feast of Saint Joseph – their patron saint – on March 19th. The “Fallas” were the piles of combustible materials gathered for the occasion. The modern festival took shape in the late 19th Century, when prizes began to be awarded for the most creative use of the leftover materials. Over time, the festival has become a focus of artistic creativity and often searing social commentary that even caused the event to be banned for a time in the 1870s. Today more than 700 Fallas large and small are created each year. Las Fallas gets under way on March 16, when all competing Fallas have to be completed. Taking in some cases up to a year to plan, design and build, these models are spread all over the city for the festive week. Some encapsulate entire scenes from cartoons and fairytales using sets of dwarf-sized figures called ninots. The focus turns to religion on the following two days, with a Catholic procession known as La Ofrenda. At this time fallas makers ceremoniously bring flowers to the city’s central Plaza of the Virgin, which are used to decorate an enormous wooden-framed statue of Mary. The procession pageants that trail through the center of the city to the plaza on these days are a colorful and pretty sight, with many groups in period costumes and sassy Latin marching bands. One feature of Las Fallas you definitely can’t ignore is the fireworks displays that blast all around town for the duration of the festival. Occurring three times daily, the fireworks kick off with an 8am display known as la despertà. At 2pm at the main Plaza del Ayuntamiento there is a gigantic fireworks display called la mascletà that centers around a 120-kilo gunpowder blast. Perhaps the most special of the three is el castillo, the midnight fireworks display that reaches its height on the final night of the festival, dubbed la nit de foc, or “night of fire”. The climax of Las Fallas is la cremà, the night when each of the models in turn is set alight between 10pm and 1am. This dramatic, unusual display may appear like a harrowing street riot at first, but once you adjust your eyes you can enjoy the festival atmosphere and communal sense of seasonal renewal. Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:20:34 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/las-fallas http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/las-fallas The reserved and resistant find it hard not to be swept up by the beat. Even the rhythmically inept, are unable to resist clapping along. And, just as the dancer and singer lock into a stare so intense you think one of them might explode, you yourself become helpless to take your eyes off of the stage. Flamenco dance, born in Spain, is at its best in Andalusia's capitol – Sevilla. The earliest records of flamenco dance are from as recent as the 1800s, but there is evidence that suggests this tradition goes back quite a bit further. Flamenco traditionally consists of three parts, toque – playing the guitar, cante – singing, and baile – the dancing. The percussion in the flamenco music comes from palmas, the clapping of the singer and the audience, from the zapateado, the foot stomping of everyone involved, and of course the dancing, which includes stomping (sometimes with blurring speed) and bodily percussion of all sorts. The eye contact between the flamenco dancer and the singer is very important. Although the dancer and the singer both have to be highly skilled in order to perform, they do not necessarily have a set routine. The speed at which the dancer wants to dance or the length of time of the performance, must be communicated through the eyes or through gestures in dance called llamadas. The improvisational nature of a flamenco dance can often make the show feel more personal and intimate, while the eye contact between the dancer and singer increases the intensity. In Sevilla, you can find many different venues and styles of flamenco. There are highly formal performances, where all the performers are in costume and each song is well rehearsed. There are also very informal, intimate settings, where the performers wear jeans and will chat with you between sets like you are old friends. The songs themselves range in emotion from sad and mournful to exciting and celebratory. Often in a minor key, the mixture of influences in the flamenco music (Moorish, Byzantine, Gypsy, etc) call to mind the variety of architectural styles that can be found in Sevilla. Triana, a famous gypsy district in Sevilla is a good place to find great flamenco. On Calle del Betis there are a number of tabernas at which to see a performance. Triana is so famous for its flamenco, that you can hear it being sung about in flamenco songs as far away as Madrid. La Carboneria is also a great place for a flamenco spectator. If you get lost in the Santa Cruz district, you might just find this place. Down an old, winding street, Calle Levies, this gem attracts many, despite the difficulty of finding it. In addition to having great sangria and a beautiful terrace with over-grown plants, it has nightly flamenco shows in a very intimate style. If you go a few times, you will probably find yourself chatting with one of the musicians afterwords. Mon, 21 Jun 2010 20:48:48 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/flamenco-dance http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/flamenco-dance Our environment is extremely precious, and whether you are a global warming advocate or a cynic, there seems to be no doubt that our planet is undergoing many changes. The intriguing Las Bardenas Reales, in Navarra Spain, is one of Spain’s natural parks protected for its biology, geology or landscape, which also has an ecological, aesthetic, educational or scientific value. As a “landscape photographer in training” I like to take the opportunity to explore new landscapes whenever it arises, and had never previously heard of a “natural park.” Enter: Las Bardenas Reales Natural Park and Biosphere Reserve. It ticks all the boxes for any photographer—environmental, tourist, or adventurer, and covers 42,500 hectares of fascinating semi-desert vegetation, with rocky formations of an eerie lunar quality, regarded as unique within Europe. The area known as Bardena Blanca (white) comprises the whitest landscapes, made of gypsum substratum and steppe vegetation. Aleppo pine forests and clay soil, on the other hand, form the area known as Bardena Negra (black). That special burst of light is what we photographers are always seeking, and so to venture into Bardenas Reales at first light, which illuminates the mountains and the small golden huts, it provides you with unparalleled viewing of mother nature's best work. To fully explore Las Bardenas Reales Natural Park you need to do a full circle through all terrains, and there are well sign-posted exploration roads with good quality tracks on which to investigate. Some of the best views over Bardenas Reales Natural Park are from Alto de Aguilares and the Balcón de Pilatos, which can only be reached on foot or by bicycle. As we scouted locations and set-up our shoots, we would see the occasional driver or even mountain biker in the park. In the midst of August, the hot summer sun reached over 40°C, meaning many stayed back at the hotel pool. But in the cooler months, Bardenas Reales Biosphere has some great tracks and paths for hikers, horse riders, and bike riders. It was very interesting to witness that the Bardenas Reales Park also bordered on a military zone. Since 1951, the Spanish air force has maintained a base in the park, so that literally stepping over a rock could put you under the watchful eye of the military. Their presence was subtle, but clear. Even written in Spanish, the signs marked out territory which was out of bounds—oh so tempting for an intrepid photographer, especially if that is where the best shot in the park might be! Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:06:38 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/bardenas-reales http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/bardenas-reales The beautiful Park Guell of Barcelona, Spain, is an extraordinary sight. Fantastic pavilions and sculptures are positioned amid the herb paths and foliage, seemingly plucked from a dream. Now one of the most popular parks in Barcelona, it is difficult to believe that Park Guell came from inauspicious origins. Barcelona industrialist Eusebi Guell, obtained the park with the intention of building a housing development for the wealthy, and he recruited architect Antoni Gaudí to assist him. The plan was a failure as only two houses were built and Guell was unable to sell either of them. Gaudi finally purchased one of the homes for himself and his family. The city claimed the property in 1918, and it was opened as a public park in 1922. Antoni Gaudi designed many of Park Guell’s enchanting features, including the impressive double staircase at the Park’s entrance. Located at the top of the staircase is Gaudi’s famous dragon fountain, which is decorated in a mosaic style with multi-coloured ceramic pieces. Another notable Park Guell feature is the winding bench located in the Gran Placa Circular, the park’s plaza. The serpentine bench is decorated with multicoloured broken tiles and depicts a variety of images, such as flowers, geometric shapes and symbols. The images on the bench resemble a brightly-coloured collage, and the snake-like design is intended to provide a more sociable environment. Not only is the bench a nifty piece of art and a comfortable resting place, it also presents a stunning view of Barcelona. The two buildings at Park Guell’s entrance are also incredible, resembling fairy tale gingerbread houses. The walls are made of brown brick and the pale roofs are decorated with more ceramic designs. There are also walkways supported by pillars that look like tree trunks, and the hypostyle chamber (a long hallway with a ceiling decorated by sun mosaics). At the highest point of the Park there are three stone crosses. To reach these, tourists must precariously climb small steps with no railings. The trek is well worth it as this hill offers the most spectacular panoramic view of Barcelona. Park Guell also contains Gaudi’s former home, which is now a small museum. It features pictures of the famous architect, his drawings, and furniture designed by him. It is difficult to find words to accurately describe this wonderfully whimsical park. A walk through Park Guell is truly like taking a journey into a fairytale landscape. Visitors to Barcelona should definitely take in this impressive sight, as it is unlike any other park in the world. Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:55:58 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/park-guell http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/park-guell For two weeks of each year, in the middle of July, one can find themselves amid the most popular festival in Pamplona, San Fermin: “Encierro” (or as it is called in English: “The Running of the Bulls”). Pamplona, Spain has become internationally known for its annual Running of the Bulls festival that draws crowds of hundreds of thousands of people to watch an event that perhaps may not even last longer than ten minutes. Originally, festivities were solely in honour of the Patron Saint of Navarra: San Fermin. Every year on the 7th of July, the early morning sun greets the community of Navarra as they gather in the street to raise the statue of their beloved Patron Saint. This statue is a silver-plated wooden sculpture from the end of the 14th century displaying an open silver locket at its chest. Carried through the streets in a procession that passes nearby districts of medieval Pamplona-Navarrería—the borough of San Cernin and the village of San Nicolás—the statue of Patron Saint Fermin is worshipped by all those in its presence. Before The Running of the Bulls, a set of runners assemble to perform a rite of protection to San Fermín. The Saint is asked for protection and a blessing from his cape, which is believed to have powers that protect those who fall during the Run. After the religious services are completed, the focus is then on the release of the bulls, and of course—the fiesta. The Running of the Bulls festival holds such popularity that it accentuates the other celebrations such as: Las Dianas, El Apartado, the procession of mules and horses, and the fireworks. The Running of the Bulls takes place at the foot of Santo Domingo, and the bulls are lead to the ring by runners through the streets of the Old Quarter. Before the Running of the Bulls begins, the area is surveyed by local authorities to ensure that the area is spacious enough for both the bulls and the people. At 8 a.m. a rocket is launched to announce the opening of the event and alert everyone that the gate has been opened to release the bulls. This is the only time for anyone who has become afraid to withdraw, as after the next rocket is launched there will be no turning back. The second rocket informs the runners that the bulls have left and are running up the slanted street of Cuesta de Santo Domingo to the front of the City Hall. From here, they will run down Mercaderes Street and onto Estafeta Street. At this point, one or two bulls have probably separated from the herd, and onlookers become especially aware that this is the time unexpected accidents occur. This section of streets ends crossing in front of the telephone exchange and down to a passageway into the bull ring. This area is protected by rows of fences so that if people fall during the Running of the Bulls they can find a place to take cover. After the bulls run down the passageway, they are steered through the door of the corrals by capes held by the dobladores (bullfighters or former bullfighters). In this passageway, all the runners are waiting; some already running while others stay to agitate the bulls more. Once all the bulls have been gathered into the ring—a third rocket is launched, and the runners and the audience seek to gather themselves as everyone looks around for any injuries. The last rocket announces that the Running of the Bulls is over and local authorities begin to assess any fatalities. It is often said that there are currently too many runners in the festival, and at the beginning of the Running of the Bulls many of the younger runners will enter onto the path of the bulls and not have enough space and distance to run clear. Crowded paths create havoc that cause unnecessary pushing and shoving among the runners, which almost guarantees that someone will get hurt. Although exciting to watch, the Running of the Bulls is dangerous. However, if you are brave enough to try it, you should make sure to be fast as well! Wed, 09 Sep 2009 18:07:36 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/running-of-the-bulls http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/running-of-the-bulls Children brought up in any proper home were taught not to throw their food, but when you visit the La Tomatina Festival, this is the one destination that will deliver the sweetest of pleasures to those suppressed childhood dreams of rebellion. No need to feel guilty about tossin’ out the rules that your mom so sweetly instilled in you here, in Bunol Spain the La Tomatina Festival showcases one of the least publicized talents for many, that of throwing your food, tomatoes to be specific! During the celebration this small town of normally 9,000 is flooded with enthusiasts from all over the world to take part in week long festivities of music, dancing, fireworks, and of course the main event. To start the fight, water canons blast and the hour long battle of every man for himself begins. The after math of such a saucy event is none other then street bathing, which can be just as fun as the initial messy match! Fri, 28 Dec 2007 20:28:18 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/la-tomatina http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/la-tomatina