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To the Top of the World on Mount Aconcagua
Published by Shujauddin Razmi, Writer
Country: Argentina 
The Experience
The majestic Mount Aconcagua stands tall at around 22,840 feet and is situated in Western Argentina, near the Chilean border, right in the heart of South America. Mountaineers from all over the globe travel to Argentina to climb Mount Aconcagua, the highest mountain on the South American continent. The appeal of an Aconcagua expedition is that it is arguably the easiest of the Seven Summits to climb. Some have even called it the "Everyman's Everest". However, if you’re looking for an enjoyable experience while climbing Aconcagua, then there are a few things that you should know.
To start off, there are a variety of climbing routes, some of Aconcagua climbing routes have been subdivided to create new separate trails, and each route has its own dangers and difficulties. The two most travelled routes are the “Normal route” and the Polish Traverse.
The “Normal route,” which takes you along the northwest ridge, is the most accessible and recommended for more inexperienced climbers. However, that does not mean that it is easy. In this, as in all mountain climbing experiences, it is important to respect the mountain if you want to avoid any unnecessary troubles. Even with a beginner climb, altitude sickness can be problematic.
Some travellers prefer the second route, the Aconcagua Polish Traverse, so named because it was a trio of climbers from Poland that opened this route for the first time. Some climbers prefer this route because it has some entertainment and adventures. You should approach this trail with caution because on this route you must be ready to face challenges. If you’re not certain that you can climb this trail and are looking for an easier one, you can still reach the Normal route while on the Polish Traverse because it passes through the Normal route.
Other Aconcagua expeditions cover the Aconcagua Polish Glacier route which is located on the northern side. This is the most difficult, and the most dangerous route, and only a few climbers dare to think about it. The Ibanez-Marmillod route, named after the two climbers who opened it up, and the Argentinean route, named after the Argentinean climbers who first climbed it, are other routes, and each offer their own difficulties and attractions. Mountaineers come from all over the globe to climb this mountain, but only experienced climbers attempt these last routes.
Before you can start to climb Aconcagua, you have to get there, and that journey alone can take you a few days as you hike through a series of altitude camps, continually getting higher on the mountain slope. For example, the journey to the Normal route will start from the park rangers’ station at the base of Mount Aconcagua at Horcones, and will take the climbers to Camp Confluencia for an overnight stay. The main purpose of this is to allow the body to adapt both mentally and physically to the changing environment ahead.
After staying at Camp Confluencia for several days, the next destination would be Plaza de Mulas camp, located at around 14,450 feet, where you will fix your tent to have some rest. You will have all the amenities of life, such as delicious food of your choice, hot showers, Internet connection, electricity, and other facilities. Camp Canada is another altitude camp located 2,000 feet above the previous camp. The stay is for one night, after which, travellers will move to camp Berlin and begin the climb to the summit.
It goes without saying that the higher you climb, the more demanding your Andes Aconcagua expedition will be, and as with all mountain climbs, the reward only comes at the end. However, once you have successfully conquered the lofty heights of Mount Aconcagua, you will be able to look out over a 360-degree view of Argentinean mountain ranges that is one of the most stunning sights in the world.
To start off, there are a variety of climbing routes, some of Aconcagua climbing routes have been subdivided to create new separate trails, and each route has its own dangers and difficulties. The two most travelled routes are the “Normal route” and the Polish Traverse.
The “Normal route,” which takes you along the northwest ridge, is the most accessible and recommended for more inexperienced climbers. However, that does not mean that it is easy. In this, as in all mountain climbing experiences, it is important to respect the mountain if you want to avoid any unnecessary troubles. Even with a beginner climb, altitude sickness can be problematic.
Some travellers prefer the second route, the Aconcagua Polish Traverse, so named because it was a trio of climbers from Poland that opened this route for the first time. Some climbers prefer this route because it has some entertainment and adventures. You should approach this trail with caution because on this route you must be ready to face challenges. If you’re not certain that you can climb this trail and are looking for an easier one, you can still reach the Normal route while on the Polish Traverse because it passes through the Normal route.
Other Aconcagua expeditions cover the Aconcagua Polish Glacier route which is located on the northern side. This is the most difficult, and the most dangerous route, and only a few climbers dare to think about it. The Ibanez-Marmillod route, named after the two climbers who opened it up, and the Argentinean route, named after the Argentinean climbers who first climbed it, are other routes, and each offer their own difficulties and attractions. Mountaineers come from all over the globe to climb this mountain, but only experienced climbers attempt these last routes.
Before you can start to climb Aconcagua, you have to get there, and that journey alone can take you a few days as you hike through a series of altitude camps, continually getting higher on the mountain slope. For example, the journey to the Normal route will start from the park rangers’ station at the base of Mount Aconcagua at Horcones, and will take the climbers to Camp Confluencia for an overnight stay. The main purpose of this is to allow the body to adapt both mentally and physically to the changing environment ahead.
After staying at Camp Confluencia for several days, the next destination would be Plaza de Mulas camp, located at around 14,450 feet, where you will fix your tent to have some rest. You will have all the amenities of life, such as delicious food of your choice, hot showers, Internet connection, electricity, and other facilities. Camp Canada is another altitude camp located 2,000 feet above the previous camp. The stay is for one night, after which, travellers will move to camp Berlin and begin the climb to the summit.
It goes without saying that the higher you climb, the more demanding your Andes Aconcagua expedition will be, and as with all mountain climbs, the reward only comes at the end. However, once you have successfully conquered the lofty heights of Mount Aconcagua, you will be able to look out over a 360-degree view of Argentinean mountain ranges that is one of the most stunning sights in the world.
When to Go to Climb Aconcagua
Several Aconcagua guide packages are available throughout the year, but the best time to visit is during the Southern Hemisphere’s summer, from November to March. However, the weather is still unpredictable.
You can get to Mount Aconcagua either from Chile or Argentina, but in both cases, all Aconcagua tours will start from the town of Mendoza, Argentina. From Mendoza, take the bus to the park entrance at either the town of Puente del Inca or Penetentes, depending on which side of the mountain you intend to climb. Puente del Inca takes you the Normal route and the South Face, and Penetentes starts you off for the Polish Traverse, Polish Glacier and Vacas Valley routes.
It is not recommended for you to climb Mount Aconcagua alone.
You can get to Mount Aconcagua either from Chile or Argentina, but in both cases, all Aconcagua tours will start from the town of Mendoza, Argentina. From Mendoza, take the bus to the park entrance at either the town of Puente del Inca or Penetentes, depending on which side of the mountain you intend to climb. Puente del Inca takes you the Normal route and the South Face, and Penetentes starts you off for the Polish Traverse, Polish Glacier and Vacas Valley routes.
It is not recommended for you to climb Mount Aconcagua alone.
Odds n' Ends
To enter Aconcagua Provincial Park, you need a permit for which there is a fee, and every individual climber must go to Mendoza to get it in person. The fee can be paid in Argentinean pesos or US dollars. Cheques and credit cards are not accepted. To climb Mount Aconcagua summit you will also require permission and some preparation on how to use your equipment in emergencies. The climbing permit is available at Aconcagua Provincial Park of Argentina, but there is no fixed rate. Price depends on the season.
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