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Race to the Top of the Bun Tower in Hong Kong
Published by Camilla Cheung, Writer
Country: Japan 
The Experience
If you're looking to experience traditional Hong Kong in one of its most unique and fascinating festivals, look no further than the weeklong Cheung Chau Bun Festival.
This whimsical holiday, characterized by folkloric costumes, traditional handicrafts, crowded festive streets, and crowned by the race to the top of the bun towers, is one of the liveliest events in Hong Kong every year. Taking place in late April or early May (it's a lunar festival, celebrated in the fourth moon of the year), the Cheung Chau Bun Festival makes the little island of Cheung Chau (the smallest of Hong Kong's outlying islands) the focus of the entire metropolis.
Take the half-hour ferry ride to Cheung Chau during the Bun Festival, and you will be greeted by crowds of happy celebrants feasting on snacks and goodies: traditional street food served by locals during the Bun Festival. If you're expecting chicken kabobs and hot dogs, you might be disappointed to know that this traditional festival is vegetarian. Even the local McDonalds bows to tradition, serving mushroom burgers instead of its normal menu.
The Cheung Chau Bun Festival is a Taoist festival that originated when the inhabitants of the island were being decimated by a severe plague. When local fishermen brought a statue of the god “Pak Tai” to the island, however, the plague was mysteriously cleansed. Afterwards, locals began an annual festival, dressing up in costumes and pretending to be deities to scare away the evil spirits.
Today, this most popular of Taoist festivals continues the tradition of wearing costumes, and you will see lion dances and dragon dances with colourful costumes and rhythmic dancing. The entire island is a flurry of good cheer.
The highlight of the day, is of course, the race to the top of the bun tower, without which the name of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival would have no meaning. In the days preceding the Bun festival, the framework of the tower is erected of bamboo scaffolding, and then hundreds of steamed buns are attached to it, completely covering the surface of the tower with buns. On the day of the Festival, racers compete to attain the summit of the bun tower first, snatching the uppermost bun, and then dismantling the rest of the buns as they return to the bottom. It is an exciting event to watch, but sometimes a dangerous one. Injuries in the past have caused safety regulations to be strengthened, and in 2007, a new regulation decreed that the buns be made of plastic to prevent them from disintegrating into slippery mush as the racers climb to the top. Some of these plastic buns are now sold as souvenirs, a unique, though admittedly kitschy, memento of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival.
This whimsical holiday, characterized by folkloric costumes, traditional handicrafts, crowded festive streets, and crowned by the race to the top of the bun towers, is one of the liveliest events in Hong Kong every year. Taking place in late April or early May (it's a lunar festival, celebrated in the fourth moon of the year), the Cheung Chau Bun Festival makes the little island of Cheung Chau (the smallest of Hong Kong's outlying islands) the focus of the entire metropolis.
Take the half-hour ferry ride to Cheung Chau during the Bun Festival, and you will be greeted by crowds of happy celebrants feasting on snacks and goodies: traditional street food served by locals during the Bun Festival. If you're expecting chicken kabobs and hot dogs, you might be disappointed to know that this traditional festival is vegetarian. Even the local McDonalds bows to tradition, serving mushroom burgers instead of its normal menu.
The Cheung Chau Bun Festival is a Taoist festival that originated when the inhabitants of the island were being decimated by a severe plague. When local fishermen brought a statue of the god “Pak Tai” to the island, however, the plague was mysteriously cleansed. Afterwards, locals began an annual festival, dressing up in costumes and pretending to be deities to scare away the evil spirits.
Today, this most popular of Taoist festivals continues the tradition of wearing costumes, and you will see lion dances and dragon dances with colourful costumes and rhythmic dancing. The entire island is a flurry of good cheer.
The highlight of the day, is of course, the race to the top of the bun tower, without which the name of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival would have no meaning. In the days preceding the Bun festival, the framework of the tower is erected of bamboo scaffolding, and then hundreds of steamed buns are attached to it, completely covering the surface of the tower with buns. On the day of the Festival, racers compete to attain the summit of the bun tower first, snatching the uppermost bun, and then dismantling the rest of the buns as they return to the bottom. It is an exciting event to watch, but sometimes a dangerous one. Injuries in the past have caused safety regulations to be strengthened, and in 2007, a new regulation decreed that the buns be made of plastic to prevent them from disintegrating into slippery mush as the racers climb to the top. Some of these plastic buns are now sold as souvenirs, a unique, though admittedly kitschy, memento of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival.
When to Go to Cheung Chau Bun Festival
The Cheung Chau Bun Festival coincides with the local celebration of Buddha's Birthday, so expect a unique mix of Taoist and Buddhist traditions. Incense burning, visiting local temples for Guan Yin, Goddess of Mercy, and burning paper offerings are all common expressions of the locals' faith.
Be aware that Cheung Chau gets incredibly crowded during the Cheung Chau Bun Festival. Most Hong Kong locals choose to watch the festivities from home on their TV rather than brave the crowds. For visitors, however, experiencing it in person is unforgettable. Just be patient, drink lots of water (the weather can get warm even in May), and enjoy the sights. The Bun Festival takes place rain or shine.
Be aware that Cheung Chau gets incredibly crowded during the Cheung Chau Bun Festival. Most Hong Kong locals choose to watch the festivities from home on their TV rather than brave the crowds. For visitors, however, experiencing it in person is unforgettable. Just be patient, drink lots of water (the weather can get warm even in May), and enjoy the sights. The Bun Festival takes place rain or shine.
Odds n' Ends
You can get to Cheung Chau Island from Ferry Pier 6 heading to Mui Wo, located at the Central Ferry Terminal. There are two options: a faster ferry that takes about 30 minutes, and a slower one that takes about 45 minutes.
Bring swimwear if it's hot outside as Cheung Chau boasts several beaches, though the crowds might deter you from venturing there. There are also some beautiful hiking trails throughout the island that might take you away from the main crowds, and lead you to great views of the Hong Kong Islands.
Bring swimwear if it's hot outside as Cheung Chau boasts several beaches, though the crowds might deter you from venturing there. There are also some beautiful hiking trails throughout the island that might take you away from the main crowds, and lead you to great views of the Hong Kong Islands.
Places to Stay Nearby
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Media References
- Women and Their Plastic Buns Cheung Chau - CNNgo.com (television)
- The Cheung Chau Bun Festival - Telegraph.co.uk (newspaper)
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