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Exploring Paradise at Central Brazil's Chapada Diamantina

Published by Jeff McCreight, Writer

Country: Brazil

The Experience

In the middle of the poor and dusty central plains of the Brazilian state of Bahia, there arises a highland plateau that can only be described as a natural paradise. Chapada Diamantina National Park is about 1,500 square kilometers, including hills, valleys, monoliths and mountains. Here you will find rivers rambling through the semi-arid tropical forest where fruit trees overhang the banks. Waterfalls and natural slides abound. On the forest floor you'll encounter crystals, and underground are caves where gold and diamonds have been discovered.

“Chapada” means a region of steep cliffs near a plateau. The name Diamantina stuck after diamonds were discovered here in the mid 19th century. There are parts of the park that look like a green Arizona. Other parts are covered by cool green forests and cascading rivers, and a few villages are scattered inside the park, including Vale do Capao that sits tucked in the shadow of the 400-metre vertical cliff—containing Brazil's highest waterfall: Fumaça (“Smokey”).

The village of Lençóis is the main stop on the bus line from Salvador. In this small and funky old mining town you'll find eco-touristy hostels and restaurants mixed in with the rural natives. Other towns in the park are a little harder to get to by bus, but are far more scenic. Though you're likely to meet other cool travellers in Chapada Diamantina Park, it's not a crowded place and you can easily wander alone in paradise. After a day or two lounging by river pools eating mangoes, you may want some action. Never fear, there are many eco and adventure trip options available all over the park.

You can book a tour easily in Lençóis, Mucugé or Vale do Capao. Many of the hostels will be visited each morning by a guide in a land rover, and if the day's adventure sounds good, you can usually hop right onboard. A guide isn't necessary to see the sights of Chapada Diamantina, but a car is; so if you've arrived by bus from Salvador, organized day trips are a good option. These trips include hiking, exploring caves, zip-lining, river exploration, waterfall visits, and more.

Chapada Diamantina is a place you will probably dream about coming back to. Or maybe you'll decide to build a house here like Jimmy Page did. The overwhelming natural beauty is easily accessible, an eco-conscious and earthy vibe prevails, and opportunities to explore abound. Chapada Diamantina National Park offers a perfect counterpoint to the aggressive vibe of Salvador on the coast. If you're travelling to Bahia, be sure to include a visit!

When to Go to Chapada Diamantina

Northern Brazil's position close to the equator means consistent warm temperatures all year long. The Chapada will likely be colder in winter months (summer in the Northern Hemisphere) but still worth visiting.

A good option for the budget traveller is the night bus from Salvador. These buses leave every evening from the Rodoviaria (bus station) and take about eight hours. It's a long ride, so you might as well try to sleep through it, and pay the bus ticket with the money you'd have spent on a hostel. Buses in Brazil are pretty comfortable, though the road to Chapada Diamantina is rough.

Odds n' Ends

Keep an eye out for the tocas scattered throughout the park that the Grizzly Adams-type miners built into the rocks over a hundred years ago. These are fascinating stone cabins built under huge cantilevered rocks in the cliff faces.

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Language Guides

Italian , Japanese , Portugese are some of the languages spoken in Brazil. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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