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There Are Many Shades of Grey at the Blacks and Whites Carnival, Colombia

Published by Catherine O'Halloran, Writer

Country: Colombia

The Experience

The Carnival de Negros y Blancos, or the Blacks and Whites Carnival, is an annual Columbian tradition that takes place in the city of Pasto from December 28 to January 7; although the actual Black and White days are January 5–6. January 5 is the day of the Blacks, and January 6 is the day of the Whites.

The origin of the Carnival de Negros y Blancos dates back to the days of the conquistadores (masters) and esclavos (slaves). At the beginning of the new year, slaves were given a day off from work by some of the more benevolent masters. Nowadays, to symbolize the equality of all people and races, those attending the Carnival de Negros y Blancos paint themselves black (for the slaves) and white (for the masters). Some sources say that one conquistador household started this tradition when the slaves painted themselves white on their day off. Today, players paint themselves with flour, talc powder, tar, grease paint, or anything else that will stay on. These new faces need to last all day.

The Blacks and Whites Carnival begins with the water carnival on December 28: the day of the Holy Innocents. The water carnival is a fun water fight where many Pastusos hail in the forthcoming year by playing with water. The Blacks and Whites Carnival water carnival very much mirrors the customs of neighbouring Ecuador and the Carnival of Quito. The idea of water festivities in both countries is centred on practical jokes and hoaxes aimed at pedestrians on the street. At least, that was the origin of it. It’s now more of an all-out street water party where everyone gets soaked and has loads of fun soaking others. In recent times, the Pasto authorities have tried to intervene to ban waste water, and they’ve found a solution by arranging for maintenance work on the city’s water networks during that time, and cutting off the municipal water supply. It seems that the authorities have the upper hand on practical jokes; and at the moment, have the last laugh.

As an alternative to the water play, an initiative by the arts department of the University of Nariño introduces the “Rainbow on the Asphalt” program. Chalk on the dull grey concrete enlivens the city and is a creative participatory exercise for all to enjoy. The sense of carnival festivity is retained through collective street art, and the pre-carnival flair is more centred on colour than water.

Houses and streets are decorated and painted to set the city in a playful, celebratory atmosphere. It’s a parade that bids farewell to the old year, and takes place on December 31. Floats and players troop through the streets using puppets to portray satirical scenes of current Columbian events, and the Carnival de Negros y Blancos carries on, ending with the all important Black and White days. These days dually symbolize the importance of ethnic difference and unity.

This Carnival de Negros y Blancos began as a way to celebrate life, and continues to uphold those ideals. The city becomes a large community, and everyone can express their visions of life and the mutual desire for a future filled with tolerance and respect.



When to Go to Carnaval De Blancos Y Negros

There is no immediate chance that the Carnival de Negros y Blancos will be disappearing anytime soon. Make sure you experience the Blacks and Whites Festival from the beginning, and arrive before December 30. To only participate in the Black and White days, aim to be in Columbia by January 5.

Odds n' Ends

Come ready to celebrate and get a bit messy! People use whatever they can to make themselves black or white, so come prepared!

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Language Guides

Spanish is one of the languages spoken in Colombia. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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