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Come to the Carnaval, Binge at Binche!

Published by Vanessa Boiser

Country: Belgium

The Experience

When you visit Belgium, make sure to do it on a Tuesday—but don’t just pick any Tuesday. Be sure to choose the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Why? Because on this day, a quiet Belgian town hosts Belgian’s best festival: The Carnaval de Binche.

The Carnaval de Binche (Carnival of Binche) is an annual event that takes place in a dreamy Belgian town called Binche, located south of Brussels. The industrialized town is invaded by tourists from everywhere to participate in the festival that involves a lot of street dancing, musical acts, parades and costumed-men throwing oranges at the crowd. The Belgian festival is for everyone, with unwavering focus on unity within the community and people coming together for some honest to goodness fun.

The Carnaval de Binche dates back to 1395, derived from Pagan rites which were later merged with Christian religious celebrations. Listed by UNESCO as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity,” the pre-Lenten carnival is most awaited for the clown-like performers known as the Gilles de Binche.

The Gilles de Binche slow-dance around town wearing vibrant costumes, wax masks, wooden footwear and enormous white ostrich feather headdresses. Be prepared for a bruising as the Gilles are not exactly harmless, despite their cuteness. It is a custom of the Binche Carnaval that the Gilles happily throw oranges at the crowd to bless the forthcoming summer season. Shops around town cover their glass windows ahead of time because things could get really messy, and the windows will not be spared. But no matter how tempting, you must never throw anything back at the Gilles. Instead, turn the other cheek. The fruit that may have hit you smack in the forehead is actually a blessing. That is according to a 700-year-old Belgian tradition.

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When to Go to Carnaval De Binche

The Carnaval de Binche is a serious celebration that takes months to prepare, culminating on the three days preceding Lent. On Shrove Sunday, which marks the beginning of the festivities, Binche’s streets come alive with parading locals dressed in peasant, harlequin and Pierrot costumes to music played by brass bands. But it is on Mardi Gras, or Shrove Tuesday, that the Gilles characters make their appearance. There are around a thousand Gilles de Binche, all male, whose ages range from three to 60 years old. Aside from the oranges, the Gilles also bring tied bundles of twigs believed to ward off bad spirits.

Odds n' Ends

This Belgian festival reaches climax at night when the town is lit up by a fireworks display with the Gilles de Binche dancing around a huge Carnival bonfire. Onlookers usually join in the dancing, and the party carries on all night until the sun rises and Lent officially begins.

The Carnaval de Binche is perfect for people who love old towns. Except for its massive medieval city wall and 27 towers, there is nothing much to Binche on normal days. It has 35,000 inhabitants. Its golden age was in the 1500s when Emperor Charles V built a palace there; but it was later transformed into a highly industrialized town.

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Books and DVDs

Lonely Planet Belgium & Luxembourg Country Travel Guide
A Year of Festivals
300 Unmissable Events and Festivals Around the World

Elsewhere on the Web

The Carnival of Binche - UNESCO.org
Carnaval de Binche

Language Guides

French , Italian , Portugese , Spanish , Turkish are some of the languages spoken in Belgium. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!

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