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Learn the Art of Capoeira in Bahia, Salvador
Published by Jeff McCreight, Writer
Country: Brazil 
The Experience
One of the most notable Brazilian exports to have taken root globally is the martial art/dance tradition of Capoeira. Organized into academies like Karate or Tae Kwon Do, Capoeira schools are peppered throughout Europe and the U.S.
For many people, Capoeira dance is their first introduction to Brazilian culture. Increasingly, many of them decide to make a pilgrimage to Salvador de Bahia in Brazil, considered by many to be the cradle of the art.
The story goes that during slave times the African and indigenous slaves were forbidden to fight or organize. Cleverly, they masked their battle practice as an African tribal dance. The overlords were happy that the slaves were pacified, and their slaves stayed fit and ready to resist when the opportunity arose. There are tie-ins with the legendary Quilombos: towns in the jungle where escaped slaves lived and organized rebellion. Capoeira schools are now integrated into most Brazilian towns as a community anchor, youth centre, and cultural stronghold.
Whether you already study or want to get started, Salvador is full of Capoeira academies that cater to foreigners as well as real deal local joints. Some places offer both. Learning Capoeira in Bahia can be a great way to have an active vacation while exploring a unique and distinctly Afro-Brazilian cultural tradition. Capoeira is split into two main schools: Angola and Regional. Regional Capoeira is more glammy with high fast kicks and spins. Angola Capoeira is generally recognized as the real deal, with an emphasis on cultural unity and health.
The trick to enjoying Capoeira in Bahia is to approach it with the right mix of respect, dedication, and playfulness. Like Asian martial art traditions, Capoeiristas are all about respect, and they observe a strict hierarchy of students, professors, and masters. But unlike its counterparts, Capoeira is not at all stoic. Music and fun are as important as discipline. I never met a Capoeirista who didn't go out for beers on occasion after class. Sometimes the masters are fat or loud-mouthed, but they're always jolly cunning devils, highly knowledgeable in folklore and song as well as the moves.
After stretching and practicing different slow and low moves like back bends, crouches, round house kicks and the essential defensive strut called jenga, most Capoeira classes culminate in a roda, or circle, where players spar. For the roda, several members take up instruments: a deep drum called an atabaque, tambourines, bells, and the distinctive berimbau (a wooden bow strung with wire and a hollow gourd). The wire is alternately tapped with a stick and muted with a flat stone, and the hand that holds the stick also holds a woven shaker. The combined sound of all the instruments is drone-like and distinctly African, and the call and response lyrics evoke wide-ranging folk themes.
Once the music has started, the other participants sit in a circle that includes the band. Fighter/dancers pair up and shake hands before cartwheeling into the ring to spar. Mostly non-contact, fighters playfully respond to each-others' movements, trying to doge attacks and trip up their opponent. Style points are important and are awarded by shouts from the enthusiastic band.
The deeper you get into Capoeira in Salvador, the more you will learn about playing the instruments, singing the songs, and different complicated moves like flips, handstands, and jump kicks. Many people love the daily workout and the friendly competition; others thrive on the cultural atmosphere. Basically, Capoeira is an endorphin rush, combining music, dance, and kick-ass moves into a friendly festive atmosphere.
When choosing a Capoeira school, look for established ones organized under a recognized master with a good reputation. If there's an academy in your town, go to a few classes in order to get the feel in your own language. The teacher will have opinions about your upcoming trip.
There is plenty of basic information on the Web, and then you can visit Capoeira schools and ask other foreigners when you're there. Don't pay more than a reasonable local price. The best experiences will be had at locally attended institutions. One good model is to sign up for an early class to get you moving. By midday you're done. You can shower and eat and spend the afternoon at the beach or downtown.
Being new to the art of Capoeira and not speaking Portuguese, it can be intimidating to find yourself pitted against some local dude with bulging muscles the first day of class. But if you're humble and attentive, the others will kindly help you along. The more truly interested you seem, the more they'll accept you. Brazilians are proud of their tradition and are happy to share it. Eventually you'll earn your own nickname (“The Poet,” “Shadowman,” “The Spider,” etc. usually based on your playing style), and then you'll know you're in. If you happen to cross paths with the occasional macho xenophobe and he decides to school you in the ring, don't worry; he won't actually hurt you. Take it in stride as a right of passage and try to learn from the experience.
Once you've vindicated yourself as not just another gringo by learning the art of Capoeira, you will discover a whole cultural world opening up. You can now banter with students from other schools, socialize with classmates, or join an informal roda on the beach. You'll begin to recognize other Capoeiristas around town. Learning Capoira can be a great entry point into the culture as you learn cool exercises, self-defence, killer dance moves, and how to play a berimbau.
For many people, Capoeira dance is their first introduction to Brazilian culture. Increasingly, many of them decide to make a pilgrimage to Salvador de Bahia in Brazil, considered by many to be the cradle of the art.
The story goes that during slave times the African and indigenous slaves were forbidden to fight or organize. Cleverly, they masked their battle practice as an African tribal dance. The overlords were happy that the slaves were pacified, and their slaves stayed fit and ready to resist when the opportunity arose. There are tie-ins with the legendary Quilombos: towns in the jungle where escaped slaves lived and organized rebellion. Capoeira schools are now integrated into most Brazilian towns as a community anchor, youth centre, and cultural stronghold.
Whether you already study or want to get started, Salvador is full of Capoeira academies that cater to foreigners as well as real deal local joints. Some places offer both. Learning Capoeira in Bahia can be a great way to have an active vacation while exploring a unique and distinctly Afro-Brazilian cultural tradition. Capoeira is split into two main schools: Angola and Regional. Regional Capoeira is more glammy with high fast kicks and spins. Angola Capoeira is generally recognized as the real deal, with an emphasis on cultural unity and health.
The trick to enjoying Capoeira in Bahia is to approach it with the right mix of respect, dedication, and playfulness. Like Asian martial art traditions, Capoeiristas are all about respect, and they observe a strict hierarchy of students, professors, and masters. But unlike its counterparts, Capoeira is not at all stoic. Music and fun are as important as discipline. I never met a Capoeirista who didn't go out for beers on occasion after class. Sometimes the masters are fat or loud-mouthed, but they're always jolly cunning devils, highly knowledgeable in folklore and song as well as the moves.
After stretching and practicing different slow and low moves like back bends, crouches, round house kicks and the essential defensive strut called jenga, most Capoeira classes culminate in a roda, or circle, where players spar. For the roda, several members take up instruments: a deep drum called an atabaque, tambourines, bells, and the distinctive berimbau (a wooden bow strung with wire and a hollow gourd). The wire is alternately tapped with a stick and muted with a flat stone, and the hand that holds the stick also holds a woven shaker. The combined sound of all the instruments is drone-like and distinctly African, and the call and response lyrics evoke wide-ranging folk themes.
Once the music has started, the other participants sit in a circle that includes the band. Fighter/dancers pair up and shake hands before cartwheeling into the ring to spar. Mostly non-contact, fighters playfully respond to each-others' movements, trying to doge attacks and trip up their opponent. Style points are important and are awarded by shouts from the enthusiastic band.
The deeper you get into Capoeira in Salvador, the more you will learn about playing the instruments, singing the songs, and different complicated moves like flips, handstands, and jump kicks. Many people love the daily workout and the friendly competition; others thrive on the cultural atmosphere. Basically, Capoeira is an endorphin rush, combining music, dance, and kick-ass moves into a friendly festive atmosphere.
When choosing a Capoeira school, look for established ones organized under a recognized master with a good reputation. If there's an academy in your town, go to a few classes in order to get the feel in your own language. The teacher will have opinions about your upcoming trip.
There is plenty of basic information on the Web, and then you can visit Capoeira schools and ask other foreigners when you're there. Don't pay more than a reasonable local price. The best experiences will be had at locally attended institutions. One good model is to sign up for an early class to get you moving. By midday you're done. You can shower and eat and spend the afternoon at the beach or downtown.
Being new to the art of Capoeira and not speaking Portuguese, it can be intimidating to find yourself pitted against some local dude with bulging muscles the first day of class. But if you're humble and attentive, the others will kindly help you along. The more truly interested you seem, the more they'll accept you. Brazilians are proud of their tradition and are happy to share it. Eventually you'll earn your own nickname (“The Poet,” “Shadowman,” “The Spider,” etc. usually based on your playing style), and then you'll know you're in. If you happen to cross paths with the occasional macho xenophobe and he decides to school you in the ring, don't worry; he won't actually hurt you. Take it in stride as a right of passage and try to learn from the experience.
Once you've vindicated yourself as not just another gringo by learning the art of Capoeira, you will discover a whole cultural world opening up. You can now banter with students from other schools, socialize with classmates, or join an informal roda on the beach. You'll begin to recognize other Capoeiristas around town. Learning Capoira can be a great entry point into the culture as you learn cool exercises, self-defence, killer dance moves, and how to play a berimbau.
When to Go to Bahia Capoeira
It's not necessary to over-plan learning Capoeira in Salvador. In fact I would recommend against buying into an online offer or anything like that. Instead use your convenient Internet connection at home to check out the blogs and maps in order to familiarize yourself with the lay of the land. When you arrive, it's easy enough to ask around for advice. Within a day or two you should be able to find a Capoeira school you can join right away. December through February is Carnival season, and Salvador gets crazy. This is a plus or a minus depending on your goals. Regardless, Capoeira schools operate all year long.
Odds n' Ends
Besides regular classes, Capoeira schools hold regular evening events and batizados (baptisms) where students earn higher belts. Visit and participate in these events whenever possible as they offer a great chance to integrate into the culture of the school. They will often be attended by venerated old masters who sit in a place of honour; and there is an air of reverence that lends extra depth to the experience.
One fantastic school is the academy of Joao Pequeno (Little John), the oldest living master. Classes take place in the old historic Forte de Santo Antonio up the hill from tourist-heavy Pelorinho. The teachers here are rugged and authentic, and accustomed to foreigners. Though very well attended, prices are low and the school itself remains low key and authentic. Joao Grande (Big John) runs another excellent school in town though he himself remains in New York City where he was a pioneer in the exportation of Capoeira to the U.S. Both men were students of Mestre Pastinha, a Capoeira legend.
One fantastic school is the academy of Joao Pequeno (Little John), the oldest living master. Classes take place in the old historic Forte de Santo Antonio up the hill from tourist-heavy Pelorinho. The teachers here are rugged and authentic, and accustomed to foreigners. Though very well attended, prices are low and the school itself remains low key and authentic. Joao Grande (Big John) runs another excellent school in town though he himself remains in New York City where he was a pioneer in the exportation of Capoeira to the U.S. Both men were students of Mestre Pastinha, a Capoeira legend.
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Media References
- Learning capoeira - Boston.com (newspaper)
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