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Hike the Dusty Desert of Big Bend National Park in Texas

Published by Jason Hussong, Writer

Country: United States

The Experience

This sparse desert landscape of Big Bend National Park in Texas is punctured in the middle by the rugged Chisos Mountains. At its base, Big Bend is cupped by three canyons with walls towering over a thousand feet in a great bend of the Rio Grande river—comparable in size to the state of Rhode Island or the Grand Canyon. In Big Bend National Park there are as many shades of brown as there are colours in the rainbow. And it is where I began my drive north on U.S. Highway 385.

Hiking is one of the most popular activities in Big Bend National Park, and with almost 400,000 annual visitors, it is possible to spend the whole day in Big Bend National Park and not see another person. Big Bend is one of the least-visited national parks in the United States.

Big Bend’s trails may be quiet, but they’re not without beauty and memorable encounters. While hiking through Big Bend, it is possible to see some of the 1,200 plant species (some of which are found nowhere else in the world) which dot unique vistas throughout the park. Approximately 450 species of birds inhabit the Chihuahuan Desert, making Big Bend National Park a bird-lovers’ paradise. There are also 56 species of reptiles, and 75 species of mammal. Signs of human history stretch back for least 10,000 years, and can be studied throughout the area.

Perhaps the one activity which can entice enthusiasts away from hiking is kayaking. There are 245 miles of the Rio Grande that are administered by the park and open for recreational use. One of the most popular ways to see and experience the river, and some spots which cannot be visited any other way, is by floating down the Rio Grande.

End each day of activity in Big Bend National Park, relax on your hotel balcony or at your campsite in the Chisos Mountain basin watching the sun set in The Window: a rock opening in the basin rubbed smooth by the violent flow of water pouring out thousands of feet below into the desert. It was here where I became inspired to write my book: "The Drive North: A Swing Down Memory Lane," and try to capture into words the rare beauty that is to be found in Big Bend National Park.

In her book, "Lizards on the Mantel, Burros at the Door: A Big Bend Memoir," Etta Koch, a one-time employee of Big Bend National Park, says it best: "You need to see this place [Big Bend National Park] to experience the awesome moment when your heart stands still and your whole body seems to swell— almost to soar... The valley was surrounded by sparsely vegetated mountains spiked with pink rock formations that rose on all sides in rugged spires and cliffs.”

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When to Go to Big Bend National Park

The summer heat makes Big Bend National Park practically unbearable. So, even though the park is open throughout the year, the only time really to visit Big Bend is in the cooler months between the fall and spring. Accommodation can book up fast, so plan ahead to get a room or a campsite.

Odds n' Ends

When planning a hike in Big Bend National Park's desert, the very basics you'll need will be a supply of drinking water, sunscreen, and appropriate clothing, etc. It is also a good idea to check in with a park ranger if you're planning on doing any of the longer backcountry hikes. That way, if something unfortunate does happen, someone knows that you're out there.

More Experiences Nearby

Eat Lunch Ten Stories Down at Carlsbad Caverns National Park
More than 250 million years ago the Carlsbad Caverns of the Carlsbad Caverns National Park were formed as part of a huge inland sea that ran up the middle of what is now the North American continent. They were a part of a massive reef complex that now sits deep under the Guadalupe Mountains in southeastern New Mexico's Chihuahuan Desert. A winding road wraps around the hills of the mountains in a small valley as it makes its way to the visitor center and entrance to the Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Several stops along the way offer an insight into ...216 miles away.

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Books and DVDs

Hiking Big Bend National Park, 2nd
Naturalist's Big Bend
Big Bend National Park, TX - Trails Illustrated Map

Elsewhere on the Web

Big Bend National Park - NPS.gov
Big Bend National Park - GORP.com

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