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Rockin' and Rollin' on the Battambang Bamboo Train

Published by Melissa Rodway, Writer

Country: Cambodia

The Experience

If it's temples and ruins that you're after, there is no limit to what you will find in Southeast Asia. If you are ready to shake things up a bit, hold onto your teeth and head on over to Battambang, Cambodia for a wild ride aboard the bamboo train.

Clear your thoughts of any images that may naturally come to mind, as the Battambang bamboo train is not your typical locomotive. Right before our eyes, a bamboo “raft” was placed on two sets of wheels resembling barbells. A motor was hooked up through a fan belt, a few cushions were thrown our way, and voila—we were off on our own magic carpet ride, clinging to a less-than-ample railing as we hurtled through the countryside at 50 kms an hour. The track is actually missing in places but it's best not to look down as you fly through the beautiful, remote landscape of true rural life. The speed is petrifying. Fun, but petrifying. My teeth are still rattling!

Should another bamboo train be coming from the opposite direction, the car with the least amount of cargo (always ours, it seemed) has to get off the track. The train is taken apart and removed in seconds, and then put back together just as quickly after the other train has passed.

The purpose of the Battambang bamboo train is to transport goods and people from one village to the next, and has been in operation since 1920. Just as we did, tourists can also pay to use it and are part of the experience of picking up locals and small cargo along the way. During our ride, we picked up one local village woman, and had to stop for many crossing cows.

Describing the speed, thrill and lack of security that comes with this hour-long ride on the Battambang bamboo train is hard to describe; quite simply, it's exhilarating, and definitely recommended. Always the honest traveller, I did do a silent Hail Mary when terra firma was once again within my grasp. Although I ignored these passing thoughts while onboard, it was impossible not to imagine the potential danger that could befall a bamboo train passenger (security features don't seem to be a priority in this instance). Our new, local Cambodian friend Bat(man) described a tragedy I was not anticipating. One day, while casually taking a bush pee alongside the tracks, a man was suddenly attacked by a green snake that bit his... penis. Apparently, said "member" enlarged to the size of the man’s forearm, which caused me to wonder about the possibility of that famous “rural” myth. Traditional medicine was necessary to restore his “property,” otherwise he would have died. The man lived with his forearm-sized appendage for months—although I have a sneaking suspicion he postponed his medical appointment for as long as possible.

Fact or not, I was glad to have heard this story at the end of our bamboo train ride. I did not want to go barrelling off the tracks into the mouth of a green snake. I am perfectly fine with the size of all my body parts.

When to Go to Bamboo Train Battambang

An authentic way to travel to Battambang is via boat from Siem Reap, with stunning views of Cambodia. This mode is best during the rainy season from July to September, when water levels are higher. The most comfortable days in Cambodia are during December and January with temperatures in their mid twenties. March until August is the hottest time of year with temperatures in the mid 30s to 40s.

Odds n' Ends

When your bus pulls into Battambang, as always, there will be many tuk tuk drivers persuading you to let them take you to a hotel. One will stand out in particular, Bat, who also refers to himself as Batman. He is incredibly friendly with a megawatt smile, and he will take you to the Royal Hotel, which is fine for Battambang. They have a rooftop patio bar, and will give you a traditional Cambodian scarf (krama) when you leave. It is an average guesthouse, but is suitable. Bat will take you on any type of tour you are interested in. Best of all, he will take you to the market where you can watch him in action, and then back to his home where he and his wife will give you a traditional Cambodian (khmer) cooking lesson! You will share in the delights of these delicious meals with his family for a memorable night.

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