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Experience Ancient Sprawl in the Countryside at the Temples of Bagan

Published by Christy Robinson, Writer

Country: Myanmar

The Experience

Riding a bicycle on an earthen path near the majestic Irrawaddy River, you might find yourself maneuvering around a herd of zebu oxen, stopping to watch men climb soaring palm trees to collect juice for liquor, or riding directly to your appointment for a hot air balloon tour and champagne breakfast. No matter what brings you to Bagan region of Myanmar, the two guaranteed highlights of your trip will be unabashed exploration of countless ancient pagodas and temples, and spectacular sunset views of temple spotted countryside. It's a fulfilling destination for travelers who thirst for 'terra incognita'. There's enough tourist-friendly framework in the region to be accessible, but it's anything but a spoiled tourist haven.

Bagan is a grassy plain scattered with brick pagodas, or stupas, located in central Myanmar about 400 miles from the former capital Yangon. It offers a mixture of history, archaeology, architecture and vistas that are unmatched in Southeast Asia. The Temples of Bagan were built between the 11th and 13th centuries, erecting some 10,000 towering pagodas and monasteries during that time. Once a major Buddhist center and thriving city, Kublai Khan's forces plowed through and took over, ending 200 years of unique artistic and spiritual activity. The region itself seems as if it's hardly changed over the passing centuries. Still, with the help of invading armies and earthquakes, time has reduced the number of original structures to a fraction.

For travelers who care about purity in preservation, some "restoration" efforts will prove maddening. Myanmar's military government has earned ire from archaeologists for clumsy, inauthentic renovation of some structures, which is a big reason the United Nations won't list Bagan as a Word Heritage site. Of the roughly 2,500 weathered, gilded pagodas that are left, three stand out the most. At 17 stories, Thatbyinnyu is the tallest pagoda. One of the oldest and best preserved is Ananda, with four tall Buddha statues standing at each corner. Shwezigon, the holiest site, is famous for its gilded, bell-shaped stupa and Buddha relics.

The most remarkable way to take in the beehive-shaped tops of these endless rust-hued edifices is from on high. Take a day trip to Mount Popa and climb to the top not only to learn about the religious customs at the shrine there, but to soak up the overwhelming scenery of the Bagan Temples from above. The steps of Shwesandaw Paya, the "Sunset Pagoda", are steep but worth the climb for a seamless view of the golden-red stupas and temples punctuating the dry landscape. To get an even loftier view of the countryside, there are also hot air balloon rides at sunrise. These offer an inimitable view of the Bagan plain and a champagne breakfast for around $200. Not all worthy exploration in Bagan takes place above - an underground monastery where monks have been meditating for more than eight centuries welcomes curious travelers too.

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When to Go to Bagan Temples

Travel to Bagan is possible any time of year, but the peak season of dry, cool weather is November to February.

Odds n' Ends

Bagan is best seen by bicycle, which can be easily and cheaply rented. A horse cart with driver can also be rented for around $5 per day. Seeing as the Bagan Temples don't get a lot of natural light, it's easy to miss interior artistic details, so be sure to bring a flash light for the most thorough exploration.

Money can be hard to get your hands on when staying in Bagan. Credit cards and traveler's checks are not accepted anywhere. Be sure to bring enough cash to cover your entire stay in Bagan. ATM machines are nonexistent in the country.

Be sure to thoroughly research restrictions and advisories for foreign travel to Myanmar. Visit your local governments website for the latest travel notices. A passport and visa are required to enter Myanmar, the former Burma.

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Malay is one of the languages spoken in Myanmar. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!


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