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Experience Ancient Sprawl in the Countryside at the Temples of Bagan
Published by Christy Robinson, Writer
Country: Myanmar ![]()
The Experience
Bagan is a grassy plain scattered with brick pagodas, or stupas, located in central Myanmar about 400 miles from the former capital Yangon. It offers a mixture of history, archaeology, architecture and vistas that are unmatched in Southeast Asia. The Temples of Bagan were built between the 11th and 13th centuries, erecting some 10,000 towering pagodas and monasteries during that time. Once a major Buddhist center and thriving city, Kublai Khan's forces plowed through and took over, ending 200 years of unique artistic and spiritual activity. The region itself seems as if it's hardly changed over the passing centuries. Still, with the help of invading armies and earthquakes, time has reduced the number of original structures to a fraction.
For travelers who care about purity in preservation, some "restoration" efforts will prove maddening. Myanmar's military government has earned ire from archaeologists for clumsy, inauthentic renovation of some structures, which is a big reason the United Nations won't list Bagan as a Word Heritage site. Of the roughly 2,500 weathered, gilded pagodas that are left, three stand out the most. At 17 stories, Thatbyinnyu is the tallest pagoda. One of the oldest and best preserved is Ananda, with four tall Buddha statues standing at each corner. Shwezigon, the holiest site, is famous for its gilded, bell-shaped stupa and Buddha relics.
The most remarkable way to take in the beehive-shaped tops of these endless rust-hued edifices is from on high. Take a day trip to Mount Popa and climb to the top not only to learn about the religious customs at the shrine there, but to soak up the overwhelming scenery of the Bagan Temples from above. The steps of Shwesandaw Paya, the "Sunset Pagoda", are steep but worth the climb for a seamless view of the golden-red stupas and temples punctuating the dry landscape. To get an even loftier view of the countryside, there are also hot air balloon rides at sunrise. These offer an inimitable view of the Bagan plain and a champagne breakfast for around $200. Not all worthy exploration in Bagan takes place above - an underground monastery where monks have been meditating for more than eight centuries welcomes curious travelers too.
When to Go to Bagan Temples
Odds n' Ends
Money can be hard to get your hands on when staying in Bagan. Credit cards and traveler's checks are not accepted anywhere. Be sure to bring enough cash to cover your entire stay in Bagan. ATM machines are nonexistent in the country.
Be sure to thoroughly research restrictions and advisories for foreign travel to Myanmar. Visit your local governments website for the latest travel notices. A passport and visa are required to enter Myanmar, the former Burma.
Want a Guide?
- Diethelm Travel
- Diethelm provides independent tour guides
Places to Eat
- Koe Lone Village Pool Bar & BBQ Cabana
- The Bagan Hotel's restaurant. Serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the banks of the Irrawaddy River (also called the Ayeyarwaddy). Serves cocktails and features a traditional dinner show.
- The Moon Vegetarian Resaurant
- North of Ananda temple in Old Bagan. Phone: 061-60481. In addition to vegetarian Asian fare, they also offer guacamole (thanks to a past American tourist who showed the cooks how to make it).
- Mahar Bagan Restaurant
- Located at Khayee Road, Khan Laung Quarter in New Bagan.
- More restaurants in Bagan
Recommended Places to Stay
- The Strand
- Located in nearby Yangon. This hotel, which dates back to the early 20th century, is a luxury option. Rates start around $550.
- Thante Hotel
- Located in nearby Nyaung Oo. Phone: 95-1-664424.
- Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel
- In Bagan.
- More lodging in Bagan
Additional Places to Stay Nearby
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More Experiences Nearby
- Stroll Around Shwedagon Pagoda’s Shining Spires
- If you’re planning a trip to Yangon, Myanmar’s former capital, a visit to Shwedagon Pagoda is most likely already on your itinerary. But if you happen to arrive in the city without yet having heard of the ancient and highly important Buddhist temple, the enormous gleaming gold pagoda atop Singuttara Hill in central Yangon is hard to miss. Visible from all parts of the city, Shwedagon Pagoda’s massive gold-covered stupa dominates the skyline, but is even more magnificent up close. Once at Shwedagon you’ll find there is much more to the temple than its immense stupa, which is surrounded by ...313 miles away.
Books and DVDs
Elsewhere on the Web
- The Temples of Bagan - SacredSites.com
- There are two preeminent ancient religious cities in Southeast Asia: Bagan in Burma and Angkor in Cambodia.
- Bagan Myanmar - OrientalArchitecture.com
- Bagan today, in reality, is little more than an archaeological site—far less known than the Angkor complex in Cambodia, in part because of the restrictions long imposed on tourists by Myanmar’s military government.
- Ancient Temples of Bagan, Myanmar (Burma) - AncientBagan.com
- They were places of worships that included richly frescoed corridors with sacred shrines and images that could be worshiped.
- Bagan (Pagan), Myanmar (Burma) Travel Guide - AsiaForVisitors.com
- I tend to think of myself as a jaded traveler in Southeast Asia. Having seen all of the ancient monuments of Southeast Asia, I didn't think I could be impressed by anything again.
Media References
- Bagan Temples, Bagan, Myanmar (Burma) - NationalGeographic.com (magazine)
- Some of Bagan's 2,000 temples and shrines reflect the morning light.
- Ditching the Itinerary - NationalGeographic.com ()
- Some years ago, I traveled to Burma (Myanmar) for the first time. I had a month to spend in the country, and I'd put together an itinerary that allowed me to see all of the country's iconic northern attractions in four weeks.
- Treading Lightly On the Road to Mandalay - NYTimes.com (newspaper)
- From the 11th to the 13th centuries, devout Burmese monarchs built at least 4,000 temples in Bagan, across more than 20 square miles in central Myanmar's wide plains.
- Asia's lost treasure trove - Wall Street Journal (magazine)
- Mandalay to Bagan cycling tour - InfoHub.com (blog)
- The Irrawaddy News Magazine (magazine)
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Language Guides
Malay
is one of the languages spoken in Myanmar. If you know of a freely available phrase book or podcast for one of the missing languages, let us know!
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