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An Afternoon Biking through Ayuthaya Historical Park, Thailand
Published by Kirsten Gallagher, Writer
Country: Thailand 
The Experience
Ayuthaya is a small city about an hour and a half north of Bangkok. People come to visit because of the remarkable ruins in Ayuthaya Historical Park.
As the sun sets, you can walk through the city centre to the nearby Wat Mahathat, built during the 14th century. Like many of the wats in Ayuthaya Historical Park, Wat Mahathat was subjected to destruction and degradation when the Burmese invaded in the mid-18th century (at that time, Ayuthaya was the capital of Siam). Structures were toppled and heads were lopped off statues of the Buddha. One of these heads left in the dust became entwined over time in tree roots, and is now the most featured attraction at Ayuthaya Historical Park. It was fitting to find it as the day transitioned to twilight—a reminder of how empires come and go, much like days and nights.
Renting a bike is essential. Ayuthaya Historical Park is a bit of a misnomer as the wats aren't contained in one park but are spread throughout the city. It's almost impossible to see all the wats in a single day, bike or no bike (bike rental is about $3 CAN).
It's a short boat ride to get to Wat Phanan Choeng (14th century) which houses the famous Golden Buddha: the world's biggest golden Buddha. It's over 700 years old and weighs more than 5 tons. It's immense. If you’re lucky, you may happen to visit it just as a daily ritual is underway, such was my experience. Swaths of saffron fabric were being tossed up high and draped around the Golden Buddha's left shoulder. The fabric would come back around and into the crowd, who then covered their own heads with it. Expect to get hit in the face with fabric.
Wat Chai Wattanaram (17th century) is in the southeast corner of Ayuthaya. It's a bit of an adventure to bike there since you have to follow a busy road that appears to be leading you out of the city; but it’s worth it. Wat Chai Wattanaram has some impressive chedis (structure containing Buddhist relics). The main chedi is said to contain relics of the Buddha himself. It stands in the centre of the wat with eight other chedis surrounding it. Between those lesser chedis is a gallery where rows of headless Buddhas sit in the lotus position. It's odd but they still have an air of serenity to them.
If you bike the entire square-shaped perimeter of Ayuthaya, you may manage to see many other ruins as well. Before heading back to the city centre, make a quick stop at the Ayuthaya Elephant Village. This is a sanctuary for retired elephants where you can actually buy paintings created by the elephants. My last stop of the day was Wat Ratchaburana (15th century). In Wat Ratchaburana's main chedi there are a number of aged and worn mural paintings representing the previous lives of the Buddha. They've deteriorated considerably, but remain gentle and beautiful depictions. Wat Ratchaburana is adjacent to Wat Mahathat.
As the sun sets, you can walk through the city centre to the nearby Wat Mahathat, built during the 14th century. Like many of the wats in Ayuthaya Historical Park, Wat Mahathat was subjected to destruction and degradation when the Burmese invaded in the mid-18th century (at that time, Ayuthaya was the capital of Siam). Structures were toppled and heads were lopped off statues of the Buddha. One of these heads left in the dust became entwined over time in tree roots, and is now the most featured attraction at Ayuthaya Historical Park. It was fitting to find it as the day transitioned to twilight—a reminder of how empires come and go, much like days and nights.
Renting a bike is essential. Ayuthaya Historical Park is a bit of a misnomer as the wats aren't contained in one park but are spread throughout the city. It's almost impossible to see all the wats in a single day, bike or no bike (bike rental is about $3 CAN).
It's a short boat ride to get to Wat Phanan Choeng (14th century) which houses the famous Golden Buddha: the world's biggest golden Buddha. It's over 700 years old and weighs more than 5 tons. It's immense. If you’re lucky, you may happen to visit it just as a daily ritual is underway, such was my experience. Swaths of saffron fabric were being tossed up high and draped around the Golden Buddha's left shoulder. The fabric would come back around and into the crowd, who then covered their own heads with it. Expect to get hit in the face with fabric.
Wat Chai Wattanaram (17th century) is in the southeast corner of Ayuthaya. It's a bit of an adventure to bike there since you have to follow a busy road that appears to be leading you out of the city; but it’s worth it. Wat Chai Wattanaram has some impressive chedis (structure containing Buddhist relics). The main chedi is said to contain relics of the Buddha himself. It stands in the centre of the wat with eight other chedis surrounding it. Between those lesser chedis is a gallery where rows of headless Buddhas sit in the lotus position. It's odd but they still have an air of serenity to them.
If you bike the entire square-shaped perimeter of Ayuthaya, you may manage to see many other ruins as well. Before heading back to the city centre, make a quick stop at the Ayuthaya Elephant Village. This is a sanctuary for retired elephants where you can actually buy paintings created by the elephants. My last stop of the day was Wat Ratchaburana (15th century). In Wat Ratchaburana's main chedi there are a number of aged and worn mural paintings representing the previous lives of the Buddha. They've deteriorated considerably, but remain gentle and beautiful depictions. Wat Ratchaburana is adjacent to Wat Mahathat.
When to Go to Ayuthaya Historical Park
Central Thailand is very hot year-round, but reaches its highest temperatures in March and April (upwards of 40°C). So if you can't stand the heat... well, too bad. Or visit during the cooler months of November and December. Unfortunately, those months are also when tourists flock to Thailand, so it depends on what's more important to you: smaller crowds, or not having to change your shirt three times a day.
The best time to visit Ayuthaya Historical Park is during the Songkran (Water) Festival. This is Thailand's New Year celebration. The new year is brought in by cheerfully splashing water on each other (thankfully because it's scorching hot at this time of year).
There is also the Bang Sai Loi Krathong (Lights) Festival in November. This festival includes boat races, beauty contests, arts and crafts exhibits, and much more.
The best time to visit Ayuthaya Historical Park is during the Songkran (Water) Festival. This is Thailand's New Year celebration. The new year is brought in by cheerfully splashing water on each other (thankfully because it's scorching hot at this time of year).
There is also the Bang Sai Loi Krathong (Lights) Festival in November. This festival includes boat races, beauty contests, arts and crafts exhibits, and much more.
Odds n' Ends
Ayuthaya Historical Park can be toured independently. Just grab a map, rent a bike, and head out. Bike rental should only cost a few dollars for the whole day, and they'll supply a lock. Some of the wats offer tours or audioguides for those who want information that goes above and beyond what is posted on the signs amongst the chedis. Park admission alone is relatively cheap; perhaps a little more than $1 CAN.
There is a range of accommodations in Ayuthaya Historical Park. The Ayuthaya Guesthouse (12/34 Narasuan Rd, Soi 2) is insanely cheap. The cost for a single room with shared washroom was about $6 CAN per night. The room was clean but the mattress was lumpy and uncomfortable. The lack of air-conditioning at the hottest time of year will test you at the cheaper guesthouses.
There is a range of accommodations in Ayuthaya Historical Park. The Ayuthaya Guesthouse (12/34 Narasuan Rd, Soi 2) is insanely cheap. The cost for a single room with shared washroom was about $6 CAN per night. The room was clean but the mattress was lumpy and uncomfortable. The lack of air-conditioning at the hottest time of year will test you at the cheaper guesthouses.
Places to Eat
- Tony's Place
- Tony's Place is an inviting spot for tourists. It's a hostel that looks a little like a jungle-hut. There's a bar right near the front and tables and couches spread throughout. I ate several meals there (including a mean green curry). I was really impressed by the Americano I ordered at the bar (coffee in Thailand was surprisingly good). It took a lot longer to make than when I order one in Starbucks (obviously) but it was delicious. I had two while I chilled out on one of the couches contemplating getting one of the Thai massages they offered in house.
Recommended Places to Stay
- Ayuthaya Guesthouse
- I stayed at the Ayuthaya Guesthouse (12/34 Narasuan Rd, Soi 2), which was insanely cheap. The cost for a single room with shared washroom was about six dollars per night. The room was clean but the mattress was lumpy and uncomfortable. I was happy to save the money although the lack of air-conditioning at the hottest time of the year did test me.
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